Tips on riding pulling horses who try to take control and pull their rider's either forward or the reins out of the rider's hands. Draw reins and use of auxillary equipment is not what I'm looking for, more what the rider can do.
Answers:
When I have to ride a horse that is headstrong I allways just keep a bit more feel on the rein, not too much, but just enough that they know you are there. If you are say cantering and they start to pull the reins you can a) cercle him/.her to make them bend a bit, this usaly stops them from pulling, just try to keep the bend or b) sit strong in the saddle and make themn go a bit forward. Sometimes it is just cause the horse is fresh and wants to go faster,I allways let them pick up the pass a bit and make them keep it, I mean they were the ones who wanted to go faster in the first place.
hey if u find the answer email me please. i have the same problem email addy is
ford_chick90@yahoo.com
that would be great.
my horse used to do that and i tried all kinds of bits and finally got a hackamore and he does great now.
Your horse sound very headstrong; but YOU are still the one in charge. It may be that he wants his "head"; to go where he wants to go - not you.
Keep a short lease on him; if he does what you ask reward him.
Well, people may try a variety of things. What I do, and it seems to work for me, is I pull the reains up, just like if it tries to eat grass. If that doesn't work, I always give the horse I ride a small hit. Not something that hurts, just something that tells them "hey, dont do that!" I hope this works. If not yo may want to try to say quit, or have a tighter grip.
I actually like the challenge of riding head-strong horses. A good tip that I picked up on to deal with the pulling of the horse is: if you see the horse making a move to pull the reins, hang on tight, and try not to let the horse move his head, or just counteract the pull in the opposite direction. For example, pull back when he goes to pull forward. And at the same time shout "no" or "whoa". (I don't know exactly if the shouting helps/works, but I don't usually have problems with the horse after that.)
Do continuous halfhalts (small squeezes on each rein) to help them collect and get on the bit, use positive reinforcment when the horse goes a long time without pulling and give them a good smack when they do pull. The trick with horses, because they are a prey animal, is to use comfort and discomfort to train. Make sure you NEVER yank on the reins. This will hurt the horse and they will not learn any lesson from pure pain, and will only make him madder. They need both to learn. Another thing you might consider (besides draw reins, nose bands and flashes) is checking to see if the bridal is not fitting properly... this will cause a horse to through its head.
You need to collect him. Get him on the bit. Massage the bit by squeezing with your inside rein, and holding with your outside. Encourage him with leg and seat.
Also, when he trys to pull, give him a little snag in the mouth. NOTHING hard, just a little bump. That's all.
It sounds like you either don't know how to hold the reins correctly or are off-balance. If your horse can pull you forward, out of the riding position, your grip is too tight and you are holding the horse's head too close. You don't mention that the horse is taking off after doing this, so I can only assume that he wants some slack in the reins so his neck isn't cramped or his mouth isn't getting constant pressure.
The reins should be regarded only as brakes and steering. If you are not actively trying to turn him or stop him, there should not be any pressure on his mouth nor on the reins. It's called giving him his head. Even in a canter or trot, unless you are turning him or trying to stop, he should have his head and there shouldn't be any pressure on his mouth from the reins. And, if stopping is the goal, once your horse has stopped, give him his head. All too often, I have seen young riders pull on the reins to stop their horse, then continue pulling after the horse has stopped. Once he does what you want him to do, give him his head. Put some slack in the reins. If he starts to walk, pull back only to let him know you don't want him to walk and then release the reins again.
If you are giving your horse the room he needs and he is still pulling the reins out of your hands, knot the reins so you won't lose them when it happens.
Another possibility is that the bit is too loose or an improper fit for his mouth, or worse, is irritating his mouth. Is this your personal horse? When was the last time you had his teeth floated? Have you checked his mouth for sores in the vicinity of where the bit rests in his mouth? The next time your farrier is out to trim his hooves, ask him to take a look in his mouth and at the fit of your bridle and bit. Farriers are just as familiar with all aspects of horses as most equine veterinarians - and don't cost anywhere nearly as much.
Omce you have determined that there is nothing wrong wtih the bit or it's placement in his mouth, it's a shame you don't want to use anything to help break your horse from bad habits if you are doing everything correctly. A second set of reins would help immensely, as would a martingale.
well what i do is take the horses head away from them. pull them in a tight circle until they give to the pressure. or "see-saw" there mouth until they dropo there head and stop fighting you.
be more gental with your hands and losen the rains a littel. when directingf the horse to do somthing be gental. think of it like this, in a curb bit it is one pound of pressure on the rains is on one pound of pressure on the horses mouth, in a snaffel, one pound on the rains is ten pounds on the mouth. or smothing close to that. think of investing in a book called Composite Horsemanship Manual. it goes through the basicks, and sloutions to problems.
Maybe hes either trying to itch, the bridle is too tight, you have the wrong bit in. What I do when the horse i ride trys to yank the reins out of my hands is give him a good kick and that usualy works for me, but try getting him fitted, or using a different bit.
simple answer: wear gloves so it does not hurt your hands and try to anticipate when your horse is trying ot put his head out of down and hold strong. when he gets his head pulled back a few times he will stop trying and realize you are the boss.
The simple answer for me was to purchase a Brenda Imus Comfort bit...My mare simply didn't like the one I used with her and she rebelled by doing exactly what yours is doing...She changed instantly!
They're $64.00 but well worth the money.
It happens to be a gaited horse site, but when it comes to bits - a horse is a horse...
Check it out.
When the horse yanks your reins out of your hands automatically slap them on the neck. Don't beat them just displicne. And remember horses are very big a little tap won't do anything put some umf in it. but only do it right when they pull. My horse used to do that and i tried this and now he doesn't
Well, if you are unwilling to hear suggestions about equipment, then that limits what can be done. This horse has a desensitized mouth and doesn't like someone being in his mouth. Have you tried riding with a loose rein? (If he is western trained, that is.)
Some western horses dislike contact with the bit. My mare will act up every time my English-trained friend gets on her back.
The best thing to do is be prepared for when the horse yanks. A sharp slap on the shoulder with the rein ends or crop might work, but your real issue is finding out WHY he is doing this.
Try loose reining (neck reining) and see if this helps. Have you had the horse's teeth checked?
I know you don't want equipment advice, but I can't help suggesting a hackamore or side-pull. It's worth a try. If you try a loose rein and get results, there you are - the horse doesn't like someone being "in his mouth."
just act fast when he does this and pull his head over to your knee and keep it there until he quits fighting and relaxes his neck
Do you ride western or English? Are you sure the equipment is fitting correctly and this is just a way the horse gets out of work? (I had a horse who liked to lay down when she was 'done' with a ride, usually it was 20 mins into a ride!) This is a TEMPORARY use of auxillary equipment and it will work quicker than jerking back on the horses mouth because the horse will receive an IMMEDIATE and 'self' punishment.
If you ride western the easiest solution is to use the saddle horn. You will need to do this for about 2 weeks (horses have a good memory): put a knot in your reins at a point that its not too tight on the horses mouth and allows you to 'work'. Hold you hands BEHIND the horn, when the horse jerks the reins will get caught on the horn and the horse receives a 'self punishment'. Your horse will soon learn that jerking his head causes more pain than it's worth. (you can, also, use 2 sets of reins if you don't feel comfortable with your hands behind the horn; one set lays around the horn and the other set in your hands)
If you ride English you can use a two 'ropes' with snaps on each end. You'll want them at a length to allow free movement of the horse, but not so long that it will not 'self punish' when it jerks its head. Attach one end to the bit and the other end to a ring on your saddle, near the tree.
This will keep you from being thrown off balance by his sudden jerk and allow an immediate 'punishment' for the horse. It may not even take 2 weeks, some horses learn very quickly.
Definitely try different bits. ( I am assuming this horse is trained.) Some tack shops will let you try bits out so you can find the proper one Usually requires a deposit. Maybe even borrow from a friend (if they have ones that fit). A personal favorite is mylar (they range from $30 on up). One type of bit might work well for several horses but there is always one that requires something very different.
My friend has a mare she calls "the rental" because anybody, any age can ride her. Until you put the wrong bit in her mouth. Then she starts acting like she was never trained. If that doesn't work, talk to a trainer. They should be able to pinpoint a behavioral problem and help you.
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