I was just wondering if anyone knew of any horse events in my area? N.E. Oklahoma so Kansas and Missouri works too. English or western. Trail or show. Class spectator or lower level participate. Or clinics or anything? or even know of site that would list them. I ride english but just got a western horse and my daughter rides western. Want to start going to more show-d-o and trails as well as watch some Grand PRix and clinics Please let me know thanks
Answers:
In November there is a AQHA world show, where amateurs and open trainers qualified to compete here. There is every event except dressage and racing. The top QH of the world are there to compete. It is a fun show to watch if your just looking for something to do. There is also a NRHA derby there. The shows consist of prelims and finals. You can find the info out at www.aqha.com or www.nrha.com . I dont know for weekend local shows I dont live there sorry. You could look up stuff under Oklahoma horse associations. Hope this helps sorry I dont have more help.
Kansas horse events:
http://www.kansashorsecouncil.com/events...
Missouri events:
http://mohorseshows.com/
Oklahoma events:
http://www.oklahomahorseonline.com/calen...
You could also ask around at other local barns too or find posts in tack stores. That's usually where I find out what's going on.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Any comments or suggestions with my virtual horse game?
http://www.ponypaws.com/register_player.
Any suggestions?
Answers:
well i dont quite under stand how do you get horses i cant find out how the other people created theirs but it definatly has potential!! i like it i would add a shop type place ect.. but yah keep it up and add more stuff
i'll look into it tonight but i just joined!
I'm just trying it out, but, YOU MADE IT? I'm a HTML goddess myself, but that's gotta be a big job.
What you could do, is, also add pages where there are links to other sites where you can find real horses to share or buy in different places.
Any suggestions?
Answers:
well i dont quite under stand how do you get horses i cant find out how the other people created theirs but it definatly has potential!! i like it i would add a shop type place ect.. but yah keep it up and add more stuff
i'll look into it tonight but i just joined!
I'm just trying it out, but, YOU MADE IT? I'm a HTML goddess myself, but that's gotta be a big job.
What you could do, is, also add pages where there are links to other sites where you can find real horses to share or buy in different places.
Any body on here from the Saddlebreed industry?
I am going to show my five gaited horse at the World Grand Championship Horse Show in Louisville, KY. Does anyone have any tips?
Answers:
If you are going to the World in any breed you should be the one giving us tips! I don't know the show grounds or area, but I would get on some websites for them, and read the information about what is offered locally. Try to find a hotel nearby and book it now! You will pay out the nose for it, but it is worth it to be near the showgrounds. Take time out for the shopping, as there will be lots of vendors selling things. If you have never gone as a spectator, try to get a map of the show grounds, and get there as early as they will let you check in. There may be an event being held there prior to yours, so don't show up too early or you will be waiting to unload. Take your own bedding and feed, to save money and assure the quality. Make a checklist of items you will need, and reserve an extra stall for your tack. Bring along a chain and lock for it, and curtains to put along the front so you can use it as a changing room. Take a lot of pictures and enjoy your horse while making new friends. Don't get imtimidated by the big stables - you paid your money and you have just as much a right to be there!
I hope this is what you had in mind - I assume at that level you won't be needing riding or showing tips! Probably the most important thing is to remember it is just another show, and have a great time.
Congratulations! Because you have already made it this far, as the World show is a great achievement in its own right, you obviously have talent and your horse has skill. But if you are worried about achieving that winning and competitive edge just practice-practice-practice. It has been a long time since I competed on a saddle bred, we used to compete at Madison Square Garden all of the time when we were young. I still do the same thing before a show now that I did 20 years ago, work my horse every day, feed supplements to improve his coat and practice the most difficult riding tasks (no stirrups, balancing with no hands, figure eights, serpentine etc). Practicing your aids and gaits will perfect your performance. Everything I ever learned about showmanship,equitation and competition I learned from Helen K. Crabtree's book "Saddle Seat Equitation" published in 1970. Although the book is a bit dated, its content is just as viable today as it was 30 years ago. Crabtree discusses in detail leg and seat aids, perfect hand and wrist placement and even ways to compliment and hide your horse's small faults. She discusses equitation fundamentals and so much more. It is a good read and many libraries stock it. You may try looking it over. Good Luck.
Answers:
If you are going to the World in any breed you should be the one giving us tips! I don't know the show grounds or area, but I would get on some websites for them, and read the information about what is offered locally. Try to find a hotel nearby and book it now! You will pay out the nose for it, but it is worth it to be near the showgrounds. Take time out for the shopping, as there will be lots of vendors selling things. If you have never gone as a spectator, try to get a map of the show grounds, and get there as early as they will let you check in. There may be an event being held there prior to yours, so don't show up too early or you will be waiting to unload. Take your own bedding and feed, to save money and assure the quality. Make a checklist of items you will need, and reserve an extra stall for your tack. Bring along a chain and lock for it, and curtains to put along the front so you can use it as a changing room. Take a lot of pictures and enjoy your horse while making new friends. Don't get imtimidated by the big stables - you paid your money and you have just as much a right to be there!
I hope this is what you had in mind - I assume at that level you won't be needing riding or showing tips! Probably the most important thing is to remember it is just another show, and have a great time.
Congratulations! Because you have already made it this far, as the World show is a great achievement in its own right, you obviously have talent and your horse has skill. But if you are worried about achieving that winning and competitive edge just practice-practice-practice. It has been a long time since I competed on a saddle bred, we used to compete at Madison Square Garden all of the time when we were young. I still do the same thing before a show now that I did 20 years ago, work my horse every day, feed supplements to improve his coat and practice the most difficult riding tasks (no stirrups, balancing with no hands, figure eights, serpentine etc). Practicing your aids and gaits will perfect your performance. Everything I ever learned about showmanship,equitation and competition I learned from Helen K. Crabtree's book "Saddle Seat Equitation" published in 1970. Although the book is a bit dated, its content is just as viable today as it was 30 years ago. Crabtree discusses in detail leg and seat aids, perfect hand and wrist placement and even ways to compliment and hide your horse's small faults. She discusses equitation fundamentals and so much more. It is a good read and many libraries stock it. You may try looking it over. Good Luck.
Any Body Looking For a Horse?
Chance...3yo dark bay TB. He is the best. Sound...stands for farrier...goes english or western. Trail trained. Bombproof. Barrel Prospect. Carried me and a friend down a trail at night with just a halter and lead rope. Really great horse...kid safe. asking 2000 but will go down to 1500.
Answers:
I e-mailed you about him.
i would love to get Chance... could you send me some pics and more info?
RB.
love.malachai@yahoo.ca
Perhaps you should try placing an ad in a classified section (craigslist.com, petfinder.org - or your local paper)? petqna.com s is not the appropriate place to post "for sale" ads.
Post this on www.equinehits.com There are tons of horse people looking for horses for sale. I have sold saddles and have gotten offers on horses here. tons. Theres also www.horsetopia.com He will go fast from those sites.
sounds like a good horse but i'm not around there and my mom wouldn't let me bring home another horse :)
please try and post your horse on dreamhorse.com! You will probably get many inquiries. I posted one of my horses that's pretty old (bless his old soul! :) and even still got a pretty good amount of responses! Good luck with your horse!
I would suggest putting him for sale on more horsey sites and adds because some people in the general public may want a horse but can't properly care for it. Make sure u get to know the future owner and go to their house to make sure they can give your horse a good home.
here are some sites u might want to put an add for him on:
http://www.dreamhorse.com/
http://www.equinenow.com/
http://www.horsetopia.com/
http://www.horsefinders.com/
http://www.horseville.com/
then why do you want to get rid of him??
horses are friends
How bomb proof could he be at 3yr??
Barrel prospect huh? I got room for that kind of talent!
Do you except cash?
im sorry if you light a bomb off behind a 3 year old horse, he is gonna jump! and if he is so great, why are you selling this one? not an easy keeper? bad feet? off the track?
yahoo will pentlize you (i believe) for putting a selling add here if they find you. i would love him but i cannot have him....*sniff sniff* maybe my camp would like him. too bad you in Virginia beach. im in maine....dang it
do u have any arab for sale lol
Answers:
I e-mailed you about him.
i would love to get Chance... could you send me some pics and more info?
RB.
love.malachai@yahoo.ca
Perhaps you should try placing an ad in a classified section (craigslist.com, petfinder.org - or your local paper)? petqna.com s is not the appropriate place to post "for sale" ads.
Post this on www.equinehits.com There are tons of horse people looking for horses for sale. I have sold saddles and have gotten offers on horses here. tons. Theres also www.horsetopia.com He will go fast from those sites.
sounds like a good horse but i'm not around there and my mom wouldn't let me bring home another horse :)
please try and post your horse on dreamhorse.com! You will probably get many inquiries. I posted one of my horses that's pretty old (bless his old soul! :) and even still got a pretty good amount of responses! Good luck with your horse!
I would suggest putting him for sale on more horsey sites and adds because some people in the general public may want a horse but can't properly care for it. Make sure u get to know the future owner and go to their house to make sure they can give your horse a good home.
here are some sites u might want to put an add for him on:
http://www.dreamhorse.com/
http://www.equinenow.com/
http://www.horsetopia.com/
http://www.horsefinders.com/
http://www.horseville.com/
then why do you want to get rid of him??
horses are friends
How bomb proof could he be at 3yr??
Barrel prospect huh? I got room for that kind of talent!
Do you except cash?
im sorry if you light a bomb off behind a 3 year old horse, he is gonna jump! and if he is so great, why are you selling this one? not an easy keeper? bad feet? off the track?
yahoo will pentlize you (i believe) for putting a selling add here if they find you. i would love him but i cannot have him....*sniff sniff* maybe my camp would like him. too bad you in Virginia beach. im in maine....dang it
do u have any arab for sale lol
Any AQHA riders out there?
if so what do u do? i team pen and rope how bout u?
Answers:
I barrel race pole bend team rope breakaway rope team sorting and penning and anything else that looks fun to try Im always looking for something new to try with cows or speed involved
AQH are the best. I enjoy barrel racing more than anything, but don't compete much.
I used to compete as a Hunt seat rider on my Appendix QH. I also did a little bit of Over Fences work with him but I had alot more fun competing on the "A" circuit with him rather than the breed circuit.
i ride reining western and team pening
i just bought a nine year old sorrel gelding,will be doing barrels and trails with him i think haven't quite sorted out yet what our destiny together will be but he is perfectly willing to do whatever i ask of him as most Quarter Horses are,they are such an AWESOME breed
I've just got my first AQHA registered horse. He's the best horse I've ever had. We are training in cutting and possibly will start team penning soon. They are really a great versitile horse!
My family breeds AQHA horses and I do the showing, I have always been a jumper so of course I ride English/hunter jumper, western pleasure and show comfirmation. We just started with reining and cutting.
umm i have a aqh, true pally, i love him to death, but my arab/quarter is the best, lol. with my 2 year old gelding i'm thinking about team penning and roping, but do not know because i donot ride western lol, i may just halter show him. got any suggestions
i just love the AQH! they are so faithful and kind. very intelligent and willing. what i do with them is a little bit of both english and western riding. i do some show jumping and english trail riding and i do barrel racing. and some roping. of course i do western riding on the trails. have fun with you AQH!
I started out doing Western Pleasure, but my horse just didn't look like he was enjoying it. Guess I can't blame him. Then we tried English pleasure and still same thing just no enthusiasm for the sport. Now after I can't tell you how many years, we are doing the wonderful sport of Dressage. He loves it and the dressage competitions are awesome. Each year we have something new to work toward and try to beat our scores from the previous year. He loves it and is very dedicated to it. He strives so hard to achieve and really has that go get it attitude. Of course, a nice hack on the trails is a great way to let both of our hair down. I certainly give you a lot of credit for the team penning and roping. I couldn't do it.
They all look like they are having so much fun, but horses do love to run. We had a horse that was used for reining and he was quick on his feet, sometimes caught you off guard. He really had quite a nack for that and when we tried other disciplines with him he really tried hard, but you could see what his real passion was.
I'm a member and my horse is registered, but we've never done an AQHA show. We do dressage and there are no AQHA dressage classes. :(
been there done that kinda gal...mostly trail ride Now!
I ride mostly AQHA's. I do hunter jumpers and I also love quarter ponies!
I love quarter horses because they are so calm, versatile, and have a very nice confirmation.
When I get my first horse I want it to be either an aqh or quarter pony.
i dont ride a aqh im just sayin the aqh club is pro slaughter
Answers:
I barrel race pole bend team rope breakaway rope team sorting and penning and anything else that looks fun to try Im always looking for something new to try with cows or speed involved
AQH are the best. I enjoy barrel racing more than anything, but don't compete much.
I used to compete as a Hunt seat rider on my Appendix QH. I also did a little bit of Over Fences work with him but I had alot more fun competing on the "A" circuit with him rather than the breed circuit.
i ride reining western and team pening
i just bought a nine year old sorrel gelding,will be doing barrels and trails with him i think haven't quite sorted out yet what our destiny together will be but he is perfectly willing to do whatever i ask of him as most Quarter Horses are,they are such an AWESOME breed
I've just got my first AQHA registered horse. He's the best horse I've ever had. We are training in cutting and possibly will start team penning soon. They are really a great versitile horse!
My family breeds AQHA horses and I do the showing, I have always been a jumper so of course I ride English/hunter jumper, western pleasure and show comfirmation. We just started with reining and cutting.
umm i have a aqh, true pally, i love him to death, but my arab/quarter is the best, lol. with my 2 year old gelding i'm thinking about team penning and roping, but do not know because i donot ride western lol, i may just halter show him. got any suggestions
i just love the AQH! they are so faithful and kind. very intelligent and willing. what i do with them is a little bit of both english and western riding. i do some show jumping and english trail riding and i do barrel racing. and some roping. of course i do western riding on the trails. have fun with you AQH!
I started out doing Western Pleasure, but my horse just didn't look like he was enjoying it. Guess I can't blame him. Then we tried English pleasure and still same thing just no enthusiasm for the sport. Now after I can't tell you how many years, we are doing the wonderful sport of Dressage. He loves it and the dressage competitions are awesome. Each year we have something new to work toward and try to beat our scores from the previous year. He loves it and is very dedicated to it. He strives so hard to achieve and really has that go get it attitude. Of course, a nice hack on the trails is a great way to let both of our hair down. I certainly give you a lot of credit for the team penning and roping. I couldn't do it.
They all look like they are having so much fun, but horses do love to run. We had a horse that was used for reining and he was quick on his feet, sometimes caught you off guard. He really had quite a nack for that and when we tried other disciplines with him he really tried hard, but you could see what his real passion was.
I'm a member and my horse is registered, but we've never done an AQHA show. We do dressage and there are no AQHA dressage classes. :(
been there done that kinda gal...mostly trail ride Now!
I ride mostly AQHA's. I do hunter jumpers and I also love quarter ponies!
I love quarter horses because they are so calm, versatile, and have a very nice confirmation.
When I get my first horse I want it to be either an aqh or quarter pony.
i dont ride a aqh im just sayin the aqh club is pro slaughter
Any advice?
I have issues controlling my nerves when I ride, and lately I have been riding a horse that I use to be comfortable on and we did great. Now she gets nervous and so do I, and we were eliminated at the last show after only 3 jumps on cross-country because I got so nervous I froze. I know she is a good horse and would never do anything wrong, and I don't know what started my nervousness on her. My instructor suggested me going back to the push-button horse I used to ride to gain my confidence back, but I feel like this is taking a step backwards. I love the horse I ride now, and it is only on jumping that we get nervous. Should I feel embarrased about going back to an easier horse, or do you have any tips on how my horse and I can work it through together?
Answers:
If you have to go back to your previous horse, it's nothing to be emabarrassed by. Sometimes taking a step backward is the best way to go, rather than trying to push yourself to do something you're uncomfortable with. I had a bad fall from my favorite horse, and after that day, I couldn't get the nerve to get back on her. I went back to riding the steadier horses I had been riding before, and it helped me out a lot. My mom claims that the fall set me back by years, but I have no doubt that, had I not taken a step back and allowed myself to become comfortable with myself, and the horse again, I would have been much worse off. However, if you want to work it out with the horse you're riding now, try going back to some basics. Do some flat work, and try doing some work over some ground poles. Then slowly add some small jumps one at a time, maybe try some beginner cross poles, and move up slowly back to where you were. If you start feeling nervous, take some deep breaths, and relax. If you have to, go back a step, but don't push yourself farther than what you're comfortable with, and don't rush it. Be patient, it will take time, no matter which way you choose to do it. Make sure to discuss your decision with your instructor, maybe she's got some more tips for you, but don't let anyone convince you to go with a decision that you're uncomfortable with.
Don't worry about being embarrassed. Do what feels most comfortable ... for safety's sake.
Try getting used to the horse
Sometimes you have to take a step back in order to progress any further. Listen to your instructor. When you are ready, you can go back to this horse.
when u get on her set in ur seat take a deep breath tell ur self and her that everything is fine.. i would not go bak a horse stay onn her but ride in a smaller area until u get ur confidence...
Listen to your instructor-- she has seen you ride and she knows you better than any of us do... remeber that sometimes you must take a few steps back in order to progress further... That is one of the many things you have to learn about riding-- a lot of times it's necessary to backtrack and go back to basics.
I get terrified during shows too... in fact I usually forget to breathe which is what makes my horse think that I'm nervous and it makes him nervous... we do dressage, but it's still jitters...
Now I go out and sing 'row row row your boat' over and over as we do our test... it makes SURE that you are breathing evenly (you can't sing if you aren't), and the rhythm will help calm you and your horse down... I just sing under my breath really quietly so only the two of us can hear, and it helps me a lot.
Taking a step backward isn't necessarily a bad thing, and it could improve your performance on this horse a lot as soon as you get back on her.
Really you have two options:
You can work with a steadier horse untill you get your confidence back up over the jumps.
OR
You can backtrack with the horse that you are riding now. Go back to just ground poles and build up from there.
But if you don't change something things will only get worse. This problem will not go away on its own, because when the jumps grow higher your confidence will drop. You've got to change the problem now so your not too far behind.
the horse is getting nerves because it can sense that you are nerves. you can try taking the horse out into a open field where both of you are comfortable. then just ride to have fun. this will give you and the horse a brake and help you relax. don't let jumping get to you, concentrate on the horse and let it do its job.
You have to do a risk assesment, would it do more damage to you and your horse to continue in this way? or will it benefit you to go back to a "riding school horse" to regain your confidence. I lost my confidence after a fall on my horse which like you maid him nervous and skittiy when i tried to ride, i benefited from taking a break and letting someone else ride him, then when i eventually when i felt more confiedent i got back on and went hacking with someone walking basically back to basics. I did't want to but i am glad i did. Pleases don't feel embarrased! You need to do what is best for the both you and your horse. not every man and his dog :)
im kind of in your situation, last year i rode a horse that was a brat, and this year he is "push button" and now i still have him, but i have another brat, lol, and he absolutely pushes me to the limit, and sometimes i feel like i just want to get off and quit and get on my easier horse, but i just stay on him and hes listening to me better. i get so nervous when hes being bad but i just think, okay settle down because he knows your nervous and hes taking advantage of you. i dont ride the easy horse unless i am successful with the hard one! so stick with it!!
Answers:
If you have to go back to your previous horse, it's nothing to be emabarrassed by. Sometimes taking a step backward is the best way to go, rather than trying to push yourself to do something you're uncomfortable with. I had a bad fall from my favorite horse, and after that day, I couldn't get the nerve to get back on her. I went back to riding the steadier horses I had been riding before, and it helped me out a lot. My mom claims that the fall set me back by years, but I have no doubt that, had I not taken a step back and allowed myself to become comfortable with myself, and the horse again, I would have been much worse off. However, if you want to work it out with the horse you're riding now, try going back to some basics. Do some flat work, and try doing some work over some ground poles. Then slowly add some small jumps one at a time, maybe try some beginner cross poles, and move up slowly back to where you were. If you start feeling nervous, take some deep breaths, and relax. If you have to, go back a step, but don't push yourself farther than what you're comfortable with, and don't rush it. Be patient, it will take time, no matter which way you choose to do it. Make sure to discuss your decision with your instructor, maybe she's got some more tips for you, but don't let anyone convince you to go with a decision that you're uncomfortable with.
Don't worry about being embarrassed. Do what feels most comfortable ... for safety's sake.
Try getting used to the horse
Sometimes you have to take a step back in order to progress any further. Listen to your instructor. When you are ready, you can go back to this horse.
when u get on her set in ur seat take a deep breath tell ur self and her that everything is fine.. i would not go bak a horse stay onn her but ride in a smaller area until u get ur confidence...
Listen to your instructor-- she has seen you ride and she knows you better than any of us do... remeber that sometimes you must take a few steps back in order to progress further... That is one of the many things you have to learn about riding-- a lot of times it's necessary to backtrack and go back to basics.
I get terrified during shows too... in fact I usually forget to breathe which is what makes my horse think that I'm nervous and it makes him nervous... we do dressage, but it's still jitters...
Now I go out and sing 'row row row your boat' over and over as we do our test... it makes SURE that you are breathing evenly (you can't sing if you aren't), and the rhythm will help calm you and your horse down... I just sing under my breath really quietly so only the two of us can hear, and it helps me a lot.
Taking a step backward isn't necessarily a bad thing, and it could improve your performance on this horse a lot as soon as you get back on her.
Really you have two options:
You can work with a steadier horse untill you get your confidence back up over the jumps.
OR
You can backtrack with the horse that you are riding now. Go back to just ground poles and build up from there.
But if you don't change something things will only get worse. This problem will not go away on its own, because when the jumps grow higher your confidence will drop. You've got to change the problem now so your not too far behind.
the horse is getting nerves because it can sense that you are nerves. you can try taking the horse out into a open field where both of you are comfortable. then just ride to have fun. this will give you and the horse a brake and help you relax. don't let jumping get to you, concentrate on the horse and let it do its job.
You have to do a risk assesment, would it do more damage to you and your horse to continue in this way? or will it benefit you to go back to a "riding school horse" to regain your confidence. I lost my confidence after a fall on my horse which like you maid him nervous and skittiy when i tried to ride, i benefited from taking a break and letting someone else ride him, then when i eventually when i felt more confiedent i got back on and went hacking with someone walking basically back to basics. I did't want to but i am glad i did. Pleases don't feel embarrased! You need to do what is best for the both you and your horse. not every man and his dog :)
im kind of in your situation, last year i rode a horse that was a brat, and this year he is "push button" and now i still have him, but i have another brat, lol, and he absolutely pushes me to the limit, and sometimes i feel like i just want to get off and quit and get on my easier horse, but i just stay on him and hes listening to me better. i get so nervous when hes being bad but i just think, okay settle down because he knows your nervous and hes taking advantage of you. i dont ride the easy horse unless i am successful with the hard one! so stick with it!!
Any advice on my mare and foal?
ive recently got a mare giving to me that is in foal... i know a lot of people to help me out with her after she has the foal but just wondering if anyone has any tips or advice on how they raise their foals, the foal is going to be huge being part clydesdale and i dont want it to be dangerous any advice is welcome thanks:) i hav had a lot of experience with horses so for anyone who worries about these sorts of questions i know enuf to keep the foal alive and healthy:)
Answers:
In my personal opinion, give the foal most of his first few days with momma. Other than his vet checkups, the IGG snap, and the iodine dipping etc. let him be. After 3 or so days, just go right in there and start messing with him. Hold him, restrain him, pet him, hug him, pick up his feet, TOUCH THOSE EARS! Don't give him a heart attack of course, but a good 20-30 minutes a day of just messing with him until he gets used to it will pay off.
Get a halter on early (but make sure to keep it big enough as he grows so fast!) Use a leather or breakaway halter - never a woven one! If he gets stuck on something, leather or especially a breakaway will snap. Vinyl halters will not break and that is bad news for baby.
Once he starts liking you and approaching you, make sure he approaches you but doesn't start getting all over you. I wouldn't give babies cookies or treats until they are 3 or 4 YO - or at least until they know not to get in your space.
I work with Warmbloods, and it's amazing to see how bratty and spoiled most babies are. I know several 4 YOs who will push their huge head right into you looking for treats. 18 hand Holsteiners should not be doing that, for the owner's own safety! It's so important with all horses but especially big horses: you want to make sure he learns to trust and appreciate you, but NEVER to get in your space. When they get in your space, they are dominating you. They have to know they can't treat you like another horse. If you don't instill that in his mind, and he pushes you around... it's not entirely his fault.
Don't let him hook his head over your shoulder. Ever. It might be cute, it might be "ohh look he's giving me a hug!" but no... it's a dominance move for a colt to hook his head over another horse's withers and press down. Give him a nice big punch in the ribs if he tries it. YOU are the boss.
If he bites you. Ever. You know what to do.
When you're leading momma around, try to have someone with you - or have someone else lead momma, so you can hold baby and direct him while he walks beside/behind momma.
Lastly, another important thing that comes to mind... have a lot of people mess with him, not just you. I had a weanling in a training class at college who was terrified of everyone. It took a long time for him to trust me, but once he did... he was then terrified of everyone BUT me. Have people of both sexes and many ages (not little kids of course until he is totally safe) play with your baby, touch him, push him, pick up his feet, play with his ears, tail, lips and so on.
Once he's weaned, teach him to lead, stop, and back up as soon as possible. As long as he learns the rules of proximity, and that ALL people are his boss, you should be safe.
First thing is to get it halter broken and handled. Use a leather foal slip at first because if it ever gets caught on something, the leather will break as opposed to throttling itself in a nylon one. If you get that done, you'll have less problems down the road when it gets a lot bigger.
As long as you have someone to help you it will turn into a great foal. What I do when baby is born is towel it off and help it dry but the real reason is to rub his whole body with it, head, ears, legs etc etc.. Since it sounds like you got the foaling care down my next advice to you is the next morning, put a figure eight halter on the foal. Always lead it with his momma. Someone takes the mare to the field and you take the baby. Make a baby shank for it. Lead it by keeping one arm around its chest and one arm around his rump. I guess you can figure out that the one arm is to push if need be and the other arm is to keep him from running forward. Do this always and before you know it, he will be leading and wean he is weaned you will be able to lead him anywhere. Theres no reason to have to halter break or lead a weanling. If done this way from the beginning you will have no problems when weaned. Just spend lots of time with him petting him and holding him. NEVER EVER let go of him or stop doing what you are doing until he is quiet and not pitching a fit.. It sounds like you will do great and congradulations on the draft cross. They are great!
Handle the baby as often as you possibly can.
Part of our routine has been to make it a practice to run our hands all over the foal when we are with them, every time. Eventually that "flee" instinct kicks in and they get all bug-eyed when we get to the rear, so be careful. I learned the hard way how hard those little babies can kick. And being part Clyde, your foal will probably be the height of a small pony when its born!
If the folks who gave her to you have bred her before, get all the info you can about how she's acted as a new mom in the past. My sis had a friend's mare, one she'd ridden many times and been around daily, quickly turn on her and get her down on the ground because she thought she was a threat to the baby.
First, congratulations on the impending baby! Second, make sure you get a great vet to get you through the process, do the pregnant mare checks and help you through the foaling. And third, handle the foal every day, rubbing on it, talking to it, playing with it. This will imprint the foal and will help tremendously during training later on. Get a good trainer to help you through the rough stuff and don't treat the foal like a big dog, this causes a real dangerous situation later on.
I have percherons so I know the size and strength you will be dealing with. Treat the foal with kindness but absolutely teach respect as he or she grows and don't let the cute antics fool you, they become very powerful and those cute antics can kill you later on!
you want to break it from being scared of a halter and lead rope. They you want to handle it everyday that way it can get used to your toch and that you wont hurt her. Also get calf manna to mix in with the grain you give them in the morning. you might want to wait a while before you separate them, that way if mommygive the foal what it needs.
for the mare gain her in the morning. and be sure to give her plenty attention and feed her a normal diet.
Are you planning to get him gelded?> that is if it is a he? You need to get it used to halters and make sure that it listens and responds to one command name. After that get it used to being handled and led around, before you teach it other gaits. You might also want to consider a trainer. I hope that I could help you!
Answers:
In my personal opinion, give the foal most of his first few days with momma. Other than his vet checkups, the IGG snap, and the iodine dipping etc. let him be. After 3 or so days, just go right in there and start messing with him. Hold him, restrain him, pet him, hug him, pick up his feet, TOUCH THOSE EARS! Don't give him a heart attack of course, but a good 20-30 minutes a day of just messing with him until he gets used to it will pay off.
Get a halter on early (but make sure to keep it big enough as he grows so fast!) Use a leather or breakaway halter - never a woven one! If he gets stuck on something, leather or especially a breakaway will snap. Vinyl halters will not break and that is bad news for baby.
Once he starts liking you and approaching you, make sure he approaches you but doesn't start getting all over you. I wouldn't give babies cookies or treats until they are 3 or 4 YO - or at least until they know not to get in your space.
I work with Warmbloods, and it's amazing to see how bratty and spoiled most babies are. I know several 4 YOs who will push their huge head right into you looking for treats. 18 hand Holsteiners should not be doing that, for the owner's own safety! It's so important with all horses but especially big horses: you want to make sure he learns to trust and appreciate you, but NEVER to get in your space. When they get in your space, they are dominating you. They have to know they can't treat you like another horse. If you don't instill that in his mind, and he pushes you around... it's not entirely his fault.
Don't let him hook his head over your shoulder. Ever. It might be cute, it might be "ohh look he's giving me a hug!" but no... it's a dominance move for a colt to hook his head over another horse's withers and press down. Give him a nice big punch in the ribs if he tries it. YOU are the boss.
If he bites you. Ever. You know what to do.
When you're leading momma around, try to have someone with you - or have someone else lead momma, so you can hold baby and direct him while he walks beside/behind momma.
Lastly, another important thing that comes to mind... have a lot of people mess with him, not just you. I had a weanling in a training class at college who was terrified of everyone. It took a long time for him to trust me, but once he did... he was then terrified of everyone BUT me. Have people of both sexes and many ages (not little kids of course until he is totally safe) play with your baby, touch him, push him, pick up his feet, play with his ears, tail, lips and so on.
Once he's weaned, teach him to lead, stop, and back up as soon as possible. As long as he learns the rules of proximity, and that ALL people are his boss, you should be safe.
First thing is to get it halter broken and handled. Use a leather foal slip at first because if it ever gets caught on something, the leather will break as opposed to throttling itself in a nylon one. If you get that done, you'll have less problems down the road when it gets a lot bigger.
As long as you have someone to help you it will turn into a great foal. What I do when baby is born is towel it off and help it dry but the real reason is to rub his whole body with it, head, ears, legs etc etc.. Since it sounds like you got the foaling care down my next advice to you is the next morning, put a figure eight halter on the foal. Always lead it with his momma. Someone takes the mare to the field and you take the baby. Make a baby shank for it. Lead it by keeping one arm around its chest and one arm around his rump. I guess you can figure out that the one arm is to push if need be and the other arm is to keep him from running forward. Do this always and before you know it, he will be leading and wean he is weaned you will be able to lead him anywhere. Theres no reason to have to halter break or lead a weanling. If done this way from the beginning you will have no problems when weaned. Just spend lots of time with him petting him and holding him. NEVER EVER let go of him or stop doing what you are doing until he is quiet and not pitching a fit.. It sounds like you will do great and congradulations on the draft cross. They are great!
Handle the baby as often as you possibly can.
Part of our routine has been to make it a practice to run our hands all over the foal when we are with them, every time. Eventually that "flee" instinct kicks in and they get all bug-eyed when we get to the rear, so be careful. I learned the hard way how hard those little babies can kick. And being part Clyde, your foal will probably be the height of a small pony when its born!
If the folks who gave her to you have bred her before, get all the info you can about how she's acted as a new mom in the past. My sis had a friend's mare, one she'd ridden many times and been around daily, quickly turn on her and get her down on the ground because she thought she was a threat to the baby.
First, congratulations on the impending baby! Second, make sure you get a great vet to get you through the process, do the pregnant mare checks and help you through the foaling. And third, handle the foal every day, rubbing on it, talking to it, playing with it. This will imprint the foal and will help tremendously during training later on. Get a good trainer to help you through the rough stuff and don't treat the foal like a big dog, this causes a real dangerous situation later on.
I have percherons so I know the size and strength you will be dealing with. Treat the foal with kindness but absolutely teach respect as he or she grows and don't let the cute antics fool you, they become very powerful and those cute antics can kill you later on!
you want to break it from being scared of a halter and lead rope. They you want to handle it everyday that way it can get used to your toch and that you wont hurt her. Also get calf manna to mix in with the grain you give them in the morning. you might want to wait a while before you separate them, that way if mommygive the foal what it needs.
for the mare gain her in the morning. and be sure to give her plenty attention and feed her a normal diet.
Are you planning to get him gelded?> that is if it is a he? You need to get it used to halters and make sure that it listens and responds to one command name. After that get it used to being handled and led around, before you teach it other gaits. You might also want to consider a trainer. I hope that I could help you!
Any advice on dealing with a horse that rears?
A friend of mine rode my horse a few weeks ago, and said that she reared out of the blue and completely flipped over onto her back. Both walked away without any injuries thankfully, but I'm just wondering if anyone has any advice on how to help prevent rearing? She has never reared before, and I'm not sure if it was an isolated incident or what. She is VERY sensitive on her mouth, which is why I've been riding her in a halter and she has been fine with it. When my friend rode her, she rode her in this hackamore:
http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?...
which seems pretty light, even though it has long shanks. Do you think maybe this hackamore may have been too rough on her?
Answers:
This is probably something caused by your friend, but pay attention to the water balloon on top of the head.
Never hit your horse in the top of the head with anything else, even the lightest little crop. A friend of mine did that and it landed just right to blind her horse. The sight came back 3 weeks later, but she had a totally blind horse for 3 weeks and the vet thought his sight might never return. My brother in law hit one on top of the head with a light whip and wasn't as lucky...it blinded his permanantly.
Hopefully, if you are careful with that sensitive mouth, it won't happen again. Maybe your friend was just a bit rough.
Best wishes
If this is the first incident, I wouldn't worry too much. Had you ever ridden her with the hackamore on?
Likely she got a fright from something.
Bad thing for her to do!! Water balloons over her head!!
I'm not sure if it was the hackamore, but the next time she rears hit her between the ears hard with a crop. She shouldn't do it again.
I doubt it was the hackamore that made her rear. I can't believe that she would be that sensitive. But, you never know with horses. Could it have been a spook? Or was it malicious? Or was she just being playful? If it was malicious, then you need to bop her between the ears or give her a good smack somewhere because that behavior is dangerous and uncalled for. You could try a martingale to keep her head down which could in turn prevent a rear. But if it was a spook or she was being playful, she'll most likely grow out of that. But again, if she doesn't work with a trainer to help her become more bombproof and relaxed.
If it seems really out of character something could have scared her (maybe something moved under her feet) or the hackamore could have been bothering her, especially if it was the first time she was being ridden with it. If it becomes a habit, though, you should look into hiring a trainer to help with the problem.
That hackamore is not harsh, if used properly, although that is the long shanked version and would have more whoa---unless your mare dislikes hackamores, it is not likely this was the cause. No offense, but maybe your friend just doesn't ride well; put your mare into a situation where she felt she had no other option but to go up and once up, she lost her balance and fell over or your friend panicked and pulled her over. A lot of horses that rear, have no intentions of flipping over, it is more of a warning to get off their face--- the rider can pull them over by yanking on the reins when they are up in the air.
Since this was a one time thing, I wouldn't be too worried, but I wouldn't let my friends come ride my horse without me there.
You could have been held liable had she been injured.
Glad both are ok!
There is no way to prevent rearing, but you can get her used to a bit in her mouth.
I would use a short shanked training bit (I use long shanks, but in your case, use short). You can get one @ Millbrook for $20 dollars.
Then you can switch her to a Tom Thumb after you feel comfortable using the training bit.
I've done this, %26 it works.
I have a 20 years experience riding and training horses and have rarely found hitting a horse in the head to be the answer. Rearing can be a dangerous problem, but with the right training your horse will probably be fine. I would recommend looking into natural horsemanship for your horse, especially since she is sensitive in the mouth, I've done it both ways (conventional and natural horsemanship) and I've found that I have much more success using natural horsemanship methods. Clinton Anderson is my favorite natural horsemanship trainer (downunderhorsemanship.com) Depending on your experience level I would recommend a professional work with you and your horse, so that you both become successful together. Good luck, and please don't hit your horse on the head while you are riding, you could both be seriously hurt.
LET IT FREE! if i doesn't like you than why keep it? find another horse that has already been trained to be nice.
Geez! A good tie down will help stop that! Better get control of that situation! Thats more then just "Bad! Bad! Horse!" People get killed that way you know! Either you smack him between the ears when he comes up (Make it uncomfortable for him) or keep a cell phone with you to call 911, if your still breathing!
right before i would've buy this horse, he started having a rearing problem. we found out that he felt trapped in the bridle. we tried a hackamore and a bridle with a bit. what saved my life was a tie-down. if he hadn't had it on, he would've flipped with me on him and most likely would've killed me. that was a great gaming horse, but because i didn't buy him, i got an even better gaming horse! don't have anyone ride that horse until a trainer comes and works with him. my trainer also had a rearing horse, and sold to a trainer who broke her out of that habit, and she hasn't reared since, but you can never get it out of a horse, you help them to get rid of the urge. tell your friend to sell to a trainer who can help him, and use the money to buy a better, safer horse!
The hackamore acts by applying pressure to the nose, chin groove ( by curb chain) and poll. This can be quite severe if used in a heavy handed way and is a lot different to a halter. I could believe that the rearing was simply an attempt to escape from uncomfortable pressure on her head.
If she has never done it before or since I wouldn't worry too much but take care of how other people may ride your horse.
It sounds as though you are describing what's called a mechanical hackamore, and not a regular hackamore or bosal. Mechanical hackamores can actually be very severe if they have long shanks, if they are in the wrong hands and used roughly, just as any bit can also be severe. Mechanical hackamores use leverage as a principal, and that leverage could possibly cause a horse to rear if jerked or pulled roughly.
I agree this is a serious problem. But I have no clue how anyone manages to hit a horse on the head when they rear up. Yes, I suppose it could be done if your horse is doing the little "half rear" thing where they are just complaining and fussing and you have some spare time and you can swing something and whack them on the head. Is it a good idea? I'm not so certain, there is the possibility of harming your horse but even more than that there is the possibility of getting yourself off balance and flipping off. But I have a mare that has reared once or twice this year, and when she rears up she really, really goes high very quickly. If anyone thinks they could stay on and somehow still manage to smack the horse on the head, then they are by far better bronc riders than myself or my trainer. I would assume that if your horse flipped over she reared high, fast and hard, and I seriously doubt that anyone could have bopped her on the head to stop the rear.
Rearing is one time that it does not pay to try to pull your horse's head to the side. In fact, the best thing to do is to keep your weight forward so you don't pull your horse over backwards and yell "whoa". A tie-down might be a help, if you adjust it to fit properly. More than that, my first suggestion would be to find a less harsh hackamore or smooth simple snaffle bit. If this was a one time event you're probably going to be okay. If it happens again you are going to have to consider whether you want to sell this horse or send her to a trainer. Rearing is a serious and dangerous problem - I should know since I ride one that has that streak deep inside her when things get really rough. And I don't like it one bit.
Good luck and keep safe.
Well, if it was an isolated incident, it was probably a combination of the hackamore and your friend. Some horses do not like the pressure that a hackamore puts on their nose and chin(and poll)...I know one of my horses will do a half-rear with a curb chain - he absolutely doesn't like the pressure. I have never had a problem in a regualr snaffle, so I just avoid curb chans(he's a Hunter anyway). If your friend is heavy handed and pulled too hard, that is probably why your horse reared. I perosnally, would not allow her to ride my horse...what if she causes the mare to rear and hurts or kills herself or the mare. Rearing, and especially flipping is EXTREMELY dangerous! I wouldn't allow her to ride just to be safe. If it doesn't happen again, you will know the cause. If the mare starts rearing more often, then she is probably in pain and a thorough vet check will be in order to rule out physical issues before dealing with it as a training issue. I will say what I always do, rearing is not something to mess with...if she becomes a chronic rearer with no reason I would not deal with it. My life is worth more than riding a rearer. But, hopefully this was an isolated even cause by your friend and will not happen again if you don't allow her to ride your horse.
try bitless it has no bit lol but its still a bridle
http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?...
which seems pretty light, even though it has long shanks. Do you think maybe this hackamore may have been too rough on her?
Answers:
This is probably something caused by your friend, but pay attention to the water balloon on top of the head.
Never hit your horse in the top of the head with anything else, even the lightest little crop. A friend of mine did that and it landed just right to blind her horse. The sight came back 3 weeks later, but she had a totally blind horse for 3 weeks and the vet thought his sight might never return. My brother in law hit one on top of the head with a light whip and wasn't as lucky...it blinded his permanantly.
Hopefully, if you are careful with that sensitive mouth, it won't happen again. Maybe your friend was just a bit rough.
Best wishes
If this is the first incident, I wouldn't worry too much. Had you ever ridden her with the hackamore on?
Likely she got a fright from something.
Bad thing for her to do!! Water balloons over her head!!
I'm not sure if it was the hackamore, but the next time she rears hit her between the ears hard with a crop. She shouldn't do it again.
I doubt it was the hackamore that made her rear. I can't believe that she would be that sensitive. But, you never know with horses. Could it have been a spook? Or was it malicious? Or was she just being playful? If it was malicious, then you need to bop her between the ears or give her a good smack somewhere because that behavior is dangerous and uncalled for. You could try a martingale to keep her head down which could in turn prevent a rear. But if it was a spook or she was being playful, she'll most likely grow out of that. But again, if she doesn't work with a trainer to help her become more bombproof and relaxed.
If it seems really out of character something could have scared her (maybe something moved under her feet) or the hackamore could have been bothering her, especially if it was the first time she was being ridden with it. If it becomes a habit, though, you should look into hiring a trainer to help with the problem.
That hackamore is not harsh, if used properly, although that is the long shanked version and would have more whoa---unless your mare dislikes hackamores, it is not likely this was the cause. No offense, but maybe your friend just doesn't ride well; put your mare into a situation where she felt she had no other option but to go up and once up, she lost her balance and fell over or your friend panicked and pulled her over. A lot of horses that rear, have no intentions of flipping over, it is more of a warning to get off their face--- the rider can pull them over by yanking on the reins when they are up in the air.
Since this was a one time thing, I wouldn't be too worried, but I wouldn't let my friends come ride my horse without me there.
You could have been held liable had she been injured.
Glad both are ok!
There is no way to prevent rearing, but you can get her used to a bit in her mouth.
I would use a short shanked training bit (I use long shanks, but in your case, use short). You can get one @ Millbrook for $20 dollars.
Then you can switch her to a Tom Thumb after you feel comfortable using the training bit.
I've done this, %26 it works.
I have a 20 years experience riding and training horses and have rarely found hitting a horse in the head to be the answer. Rearing can be a dangerous problem, but with the right training your horse will probably be fine. I would recommend looking into natural horsemanship for your horse, especially since she is sensitive in the mouth, I've done it both ways (conventional and natural horsemanship) and I've found that I have much more success using natural horsemanship methods. Clinton Anderson is my favorite natural horsemanship trainer (downunderhorsemanship.com) Depending on your experience level I would recommend a professional work with you and your horse, so that you both become successful together. Good luck, and please don't hit your horse on the head while you are riding, you could both be seriously hurt.
LET IT FREE! if i doesn't like you than why keep it? find another horse that has already been trained to be nice.
Geez! A good tie down will help stop that! Better get control of that situation! Thats more then just "Bad! Bad! Horse!" People get killed that way you know! Either you smack him between the ears when he comes up (Make it uncomfortable for him) or keep a cell phone with you to call 911, if your still breathing!
right before i would've buy this horse, he started having a rearing problem. we found out that he felt trapped in the bridle. we tried a hackamore and a bridle with a bit. what saved my life was a tie-down. if he hadn't had it on, he would've flipped with me on him and most likely would've killed me. that was a great gaming horse, but because i didn't buy him, i got an even better gaming horse! don't have anyone ride that horse until a trainer comes and works with him. my trainer also had a rearing horse, and sold to a trainer who broke her out of that habit, and she hasn't reared since, but you can never get it out of a horse, you help them to get rid of the urge. tell your friend to sell to a trainer who can help him, and use the money to buy a better, safer horse!
The hackamore acts by applying pressure to the nose, chin groove ( by curb chain) and poll. This can be quite severe if used in a heavy handed way and is a lot different to a halter. I could believe that the rearing was simply an attempt to escape from uncomfortable pressure on her head.
If she has never done it before or since I wouldn't worry too much but take care of how other people may ride your horse.
It sounds as though you are describing what's called a mechanical hackamore, and not a regular hackamore or bosal. Mechanical hackamores can actually be very severe if they have long shanks, if they are in the wrong hands and used roughly, just as any bit can also be severe. Mechanical hackamores use leverage as a principal, and that leverage could possibly cause a horse to rear if jerked or pulled roughly.
I agree this is a serious problem. But I have no clue how anyone manages to hit a horse on the head when they rear up. Yes, I suppose it could be done if your horse is doing the little "half rear" thing where they are just complaining and fussing and you have some spare time and you can swing something and whack them on the head. Is it a good idea? I'm not so certain, there is the possibility of harming your horse but even more than that there is the possibility of getting yourself off balance and flipping off. But I have a mare that has reared once or twice this year, and when she rears up she really, really goes high very quickly. If anyone thinks they could stay on and somehow still manage to smack the horse on the head, then they are by far better bronc riders than myself or my trainer. I would assume that if your horse flipped over she reared high, fast and hard, and I seriously doubt that anyone could have bopped her on the head to stop the rear.
Rearing is one time that it does not pay to try to pull your horse's head to the side. In fact, the best thing to do is to keep your weight forward so you don't pull your horse over backwards and yell "whoa". A tie-down might be a help, if you adjust it to fit properly. More than that, my first suggestion would be to find a less harsh hackamore or smooth simple snaffle bit. If this was a one time event you're probably going to be okay. If it happens again you are going to have to consider whether you want to sell this horse or send her to a trainer. Rearing is a serious and dangerous problem - I should know since I ride one that has that streak deep inside her when things get really rough. And I don't like it one bit.
Good luck and keep safe.
Well, if it was an isolated incident, it was probably a combination of the hackamore and your friend. Some horses do not like the pressure that a hackamore puts on their nose and chin(and poll)...I know one of my horses will do a half-rear with a curb chain - he absolutely doesn't like the pressure. I have never had a problem in a regualr snaffle, so I just avoid curb chans(he's a Hunter anyway). If your friend is heavy handed and pulled too hard, that is probably why your horse reared. I perosnally, would not allow her to ride my horse...what if she causes the mare to rear and hurts or kills herself or the mare. Rearing, and especially flipping is EXTREMELY dangerous! I wouldn't allow her to ride just to be safe. If it doesn't happen again, you will know the cause. If the mare starts rearing more often, then she is probably in pain and a thorough vet check will be in order to rule out physical issues before dealing with it as a training issue. I will say what I always do, rearing is not something to mess with...if she becomes a chronic rearer with no reason I would not deal with it. My life is worth more than riding a rearer. But, hopefully this was an isolated even cause by your friend and will not happen again if you don't allow her to ride your horse.
try bitless it has no bit lol but its still a bridle
Anticipating?
Hey everyone.
My horse Laredo tends to "dance" and really get anxious when I shorten my reins at a walk %26 trot. He thinks I'm going ask him to canter because when I was teaching him to canter from a halt and walk I was told to shorten my reins. But now he's anticipating me. In the show arena in flat classes [equatation] my trainer wants me to shorten my reins and have steady contact but he gets anxious and goes fast, then he halts and when I ask him to move forward again he almost goes into a canter.
Any ideas on how to make him just chill out?
Oh and please be mature, thanks.
--Taylor
Answers:
This sort of problem is a horse personality problem more than a training problem. Some horses that are a bit more reactive, lively or forward tend to start anticipating their forward transitions. They aren't trying to be bad, but they are guessing and fretting. Other more laid back and lazy type horses have the opposite problem at times, they are waiting and anticipating the down transitions "Please let me stop, oh I think you're going to let me stop, hurrah!"
With a horse such as yours its important that you don't avoid shortening the reins. Instead, spend alot of time shortening your reins as part of your daily training, and vary the things you are going to ask from him when you've shortened reins. Basically it's okay for him to realize that a shortened rein means to pay attention and that he's going to be asked to do something. But he needs to wait to see what you ask! I would really spend ten, twenty or more times each riding lesson shortening your reins briefly, giving him a cue, doing the job and then going back to riding with your normal length reins. Examples of cues could be pivot on the hindquarters, pivot on the forequarters, half halts, haunchs in, up and down transitions, work on the diagnial, backing, etc. Don't be in a rush to execute each job, just go about things slowly and steadily. If you're riding on the rail, gather your reins, don't worry if your horse starts rushing, just pull him back and ask for the next cue (say it's a pivot on the forehand) When he's done it, praise him and carry on. Five minutes later, gather the reins and ask for something new.
If this hasn't become a really deeply engrained habit you should be able to teach him fairly soon to listen instead of getting in a flap! And it will also make your horse more responsive and talented as he works on all these other excercises!
Lastly, with this type of horse it's really important that you don't loose your patience with them and get too heavy handed or heavy legged. Rough contact out of frustration or impatience often really frazzles this sort of horse, and makes the problem worse. Instead try to remain slow and patient in your cues.
Good luck.
Western pleasure horses do the same thing. What works best for me is asking a horse to walk (or jog) a few strides, then stop and back. Vary the number of strides so thathe cannot anticipate you.This will help him relax and focus on your cues. He sounds like he is just trying to please you, since he has learned that this is what you want when you shorten your reins. And then gets frustrated when it is not what you are after. Make sure you are just shortening your reins and not putting your leg on him like you would when asking for a canter. You may not even relaize that you are doing this. Good Luck
Try to get him used to the contact on his mouth. While lunging, attach a pair of side reins. This should help him get used to the contact. The side reins can also help if he seems unbalanced on one side and lunging helps create trust between horse and rider.
You can also use elastics. I'm not sure if they're called something else in the US, because I live in Portugal, but they slip underneath the headstall, at the poll, and and go through the outside of the bit, and then attach around the girth. These also act like side reins, but you can use them while riding. They create heavier contact on the bit and lower the horse's head, making it a lot easier for the rider.
Hope it helps!
Would a softer bit help? Maybe rubber or plastic? Some horses have sensitive mouths and don't like leaning into a metal bit. Or you could check his teeth as they can get sharp at the back and this might cause a horse to hold his head up or appear a bit jerky and confused about whether he's supposed to be going forward or not ie discomfort in mouth but pressure on sides. Sorry if this is not appropriate, I don't know much about dressage but thats what I thought of when you described what happens when you shorten your reins.
My horse Laredo tends to "dance" and really get anxious when I shorten my reins at a walk %26 trot. He thinks I'm going ask him to canter because when I was teaching him to canter from a halt and walk I was told to shorten my reins. But now he's anticipating me. In the show arena in flat classes [equatation] my trainer wants me to shorten my reins and have steady contact but he gets anxious and goes fast, then he halts and when I ask him to move forward again he almost goes into a canter.
Any ideas on how to make him just chill out?
Oh and please be mature, thanks.
--Taylor
Answers:
This sort of problem is a horse personality problem more than a training problem. Some horses that are a bit more reactive, lively or forward tend to start anticipating their forward transitions. They aren't trying to be bad, but they are guessing and fretting. Other more laid back and lazy type horses have the opposite problem at times, they are waiting and anticipating the down transitions "Please let me stop, oh I think you're going to let me stop, hurrah!"
With a horse such as yours its important that you don't avoid shortening the reins. Instead, spend alot of time shortening your reins as part of your daily training, and vary the things you are going to ask from him when you've shortened reins. Basically it's okay for him to realize that a shortened rein means to pay attention and that he's going to be asked to do something. But he needs to wait to see what you ask! I would really spend ten, twenty or more times each riding lesson shortening your reins briefly, giving him a cue, doing the job and then going back to riding with your normal length reins. Examples of cues could be pivot on the hindquarters, pivot on the forequarters, half halts, haunchs in, up and down transitions, work on the diagnial, backing, etc. Don't be in a rush to execute each job, just go about things slowly and steadily. If you're riding on the rail, gather your reins, don't worry if your horse starts rushing, just pull him back and ask for the next cue (say it's a pivot on the forehand) When he's done it, praise him and carry on. Five minutes later, gather the reins and ask for something new.
If this hasn't become a really deeply engrained habit you should be able to teach him fairly soon to listen instead of getting in a flap! And it will also make your horse more responsive and talented as he works on all these other excercises!
Lastly, with this type of horse it's really important that you don't loose your patience with them and get too heavy handed or heavy legged. Rough contact out of frustration or impatience often really frazzles this sort of horse, and makes the problem worse. Instead try to remain slow and patient in your cues.
Good luck.
Western pleasure horses do the same thing. What works best for me is asking a horse to walk (or jog) a few strides, then stop and back. Vary the number of strides so thathe cannot anticipate you.This will help him relax and focus on your cues. He sounds like he is just trying to please you, since he has learned that this is what you want when you shorten your reins. And then gets frustrated when it is not what you are after. Make sure you are just shortening your reins and not putting your leg on him like you would when asking for a canter. You may not even relaize that you are doing this. Good Luck
Try to get him used to the contact on his mouth. While lunging, attach a pair of side reins. This should help him get used to the contact. The side reins can also help if he seems unbalanced on one side and lunging helps create trust between horse and rider.
You can also use elastics. I'm not sure if they're called something else in the US, because I live in Portugal, but they slip underneath the headstall, at the poll, and and go through the outside of the bit, and then attach around the girth. These also act like side reins, but you can use them while riding. They create heavier contact on the bit and lower the horse's head, making it a lot easier for the rider.
Hope it helps!
Would a softer bit help? Maybe rubber or plastic? Some horses have sensitive mouths and don't like leaning into a metal bit. Or you could check his teeth as they can get sharp at the back and this might cause a horse to hold his head up or appear a bit jerky and confused about whether he's supposed to be going forward or not ie discomfort in mouth but pressure on sides. Sorry if this is not appropriate, I don't know much about dressage but thats what I thought of when you described what happens when you shorten your reins.
Ant bites on horse - any remedies for swelling?
Answers:
Bromelain is great for strains and inflamation. This is a natural substance.
I think with it being bites though you should let a vet see it.
BooBooGoop Equine Wound Salve available for purchase. Since then, we have developed a new and more powerful version called
Miller's Work Horse Wound Salve.
Used on virtually any skin condition or injury Miller's salve and spray have proven to be highly effective wound care products for even the most severe lacerations and equine injuries.
Made from the purest, plant-based essential oils and beeswax, the salve is antibacterial, antifungal and anti viral. It immediately relieves pain and itching from insect bites, stitches, cuts and fungal infections. It speeds healing and inhibits infection. For more information, go to
http://www.equinewoundsalve.com/...
is for horses.
PLEASE CALL THE VET.
bute...call the vet
One of the best remedies for bites is actually pretty simple, witch hazel. You can buy it over the counter at any major drug or grocery store. It will numb the irritation caused by the bites, so the horse won't be able to pick at them. They heal very quickly as a result, usually in a matter of days.
It's important to remember, however, that if the bites are anywhere on the horse that tack would go (especially underneath his saddle or girth), you CANNOT ride him. You have to wait for the bites to fully heal, otherwise your tack won't sit flush on the horse and it could create wear-spots, rub off hair, or even open up the bites and cause bleeding. You should also examine the paddocks your horses are turned out in. If there are excessive ant piles, find a new paddock to turn out your horse in. Bug bites can carry all sorts of infectious diseases, too, so if you're in a buggy area it's important to get your horse regularly vaccinated and wormed.
If they are just small bites and not a major reaction such as major swelling in the area (not just the one small bump), are infected or hot to the touch, etc, all you need is some benedryl cream to stick on those spots. Human kind will work just as well. I also suggest some Bute.
If there is major swelling or if they are really bothering her, contact your vet- s/he can prescribe something stronger.
Benadryl works great for bee stings too
wipe down with white vinegar, then apply some vegetable oil and rub in some meat tenderizer--regular not seasoned, it will draw the poison out---got the answer from an old doc in NC after being eaten up by fire ants time and again--believe me, it works! The meat tenderizer also immediately removes the pain from a bee sting.
benadryl
Call The Vet
The BEst two way sare either poulticing and or liniment it then warping the area
witch hazel
Ice packs reduce swelling. Though you might want to take her/him to the vet to see how severe the allergy to ants are. You may have to carry around something like a horse "epi pen". Some allergies can be life threatening to a horse like they are with people. Not common, but it does happen.
Answers for riding level 3 on howrse.com?
In what order must these brushes be used to groom a horse properly?
Dandy brush - soft brush - curry comb
Curry comb - dandy brush - soft brush
Curry comb - soft brush - dandy brush
2 - What are the last checks to be done before mounting a horse?
Inspect the horse's teeth
Check the length of the stirrups
Check the girth
Check that the horse has gone to the saddle
3 - Horses must only be fed once a day.
false
true
4 - What are the safety rules when riding a horse?
Tighten the horses against each other
Keep a safety distance of one horse's size
There is none
5 - Is walking a gait that comprises four times?
true
false
It depends on the horse's breed
6 - A horse's daily ration is mainly determined by its weight and the work it does.
true
false
7 - Two horses nibbling each other get on well.
true
false
8 - Does the saddle have to be washed after each use?
Yes
No
Answers:
just go to CraXoR's page. He has all the answers you will ever need for all the levels.
The link is below, but i will list it here in case you can't get it
Howrse's riding level 3
Riding Level 3 (8 questions)
Of medium difficulty, Riding Level 3 includes quite specific questions, directly related to the world of horses.
If you pass it, you can open your own equestrian centre !
Foreword
20 days registered on Howrse
100 % right answers
19 Questions and answers
______________________
- What are the safety rules when riding a horse?
Keep a safety distance of one horse's size
- Two horses nipping at each other get on well.
True
- A horse's daily ration is mainly determined by its weight and the work it does?
True
- When we talk about a horse, we say that it has鈥?br>
Legs
- Is it important to put drinking troughs for horses in the meadows when there is no natural water source?
Yes
- A filly is a mare:
under 4 years' old
- Does the curry comb have to be used in circular movements?
Yes
- Do horses have dentists?
Yes
- How long was the longest mane?
5.5 m
- Is walking a gait that comprises four times?
True
- Horses must only be fed once a day.
False
- Are horses mainly fearful or aggressive by nature?
Fearful
- What is the bit directly attached to?
to the bridle mounts
to the reins
- Which parts of the human body does a horse not have?
Toes
- Does the saddle have to be washed after each use?
No
- When I remove my horse's saddle, I have to鈥?br>
Pull up the stirrups
Place the strap on the saddle to transport it
- In what order must these brushes be used to groom a horse properly?
Curry comb - dandy brush - soft brush
- Before the invention of the steam engine, horses were the main mode of transport for humans.
True
- What are the last checks to be done before mounting a horse?
Check the harness
Check the length of the stirrups
1.curry comb, dandy brush, soft brush
2. Check the girth
3.false
4.Keep a safety distance of one horse's size
5. true
6. true
7. true
8. no
1. curry comb, danndy brush, soft brush
2. Check the girth
3. false
4. Keep a safety distance of one horse's size
5. true
6. true
7. possible, but it is a sign of each trying to assert dominance
8. yes - to avoid mildew and salts from breaking down the leather
1. second
2. check the girth
3. false
4. safety distance
5. true
6. true
7. true
8. yes
http://howrse.free.fr/ridlevel3.php...
you can find all the answer here ans when you get to level 4 just put 4 where the 3 is in the link and it will give you the answers to them too
Dandy brush - soft brush - curry comb
Curry comb - dandy brush - soft brush
Curry comb - soft brush - dandy brush
2 - What are the last checks to be done before mounting a horse?
Inspect the horse's teeth
Check the length of the stirrups
Check the girth
Check that the horse has gone to the saddle
3 - Horses must only be fed once a day.
false
true
4 - What are the safety rules when riding a horse?
Tighten the horses against each other
Keep a safety distance of one horse's size
There is none
5 - Is walking a gait that comprises four times?
true
false
It depends on the horse's breed
6 - A horse's daily ration is mainly determined by its weight and the work it does.
true
false
7 - Two horses nibbling each other get on well.
true
false
8 - Does the saddle have to be washed after each use?
Yes
No
Answers:
just go to CraXoR's page. He has all the answers you will ever need for all the levels.
The link is below, but i will list it here in case you can't get it
Howrse's riding level 3
Riding Level 3 (8 questions)
Of medium difficulty, Riding Level 3 includes quite specific questions, directly related to the world of horses.
If you pass it, you can open your own equestrian centre !
Foreword
20 days registered on Howrse
100 % right answers
19 Questions and answers
______________________
- What are the safety rules when riding a horse?
Keep a safety distance of one horse's size
- Two horses nipping at each other get on well.
True
- A horse's daily ration is mainly determined by its weight and the work it does?
True
- When we talk about a horse, we say that it has鈥?br>
Legs
- Is it important to put drinking troughs for horses in the meadows when there is no natural water source?
Yes
- A filly is a mare:
under 4 years' old
- Does the curry comb have to be used in circular movements?
Yes
- Do horses have dentists?
Yes
- How long was the longest mane?
5.5 m
- Is walking a gait that comprises four times?
True
- Horses must only be fed once a day.
False
- Are horses mainly fearful or aggressive by nature?
Fearful
- What is the bit directly attached to?
to the bridle mounts
to the reins
- Which parts of the human body does a horse not have?
Toes
- Does the saddle have to be washed after each use?
No
- When I remove my horse's saddle, I have to鈥?br>
Pull up the stirrups
Place the strap on the saddle to transport it
- In what order must these brushes be used to groom a horse properly?
Curry comb - dandy brush - soft brush
- Before the invention of the steam engine, horses were the main mode of transport for humans.
True
- What are the last checks to be done before mounting a horse?
Check the harness
Check the length of the stirrups
1.curry comb, dandy brush, soft brush
2. Check the girth
3.false
4.Keep a safety distance of one horse's size
5. true
6. true
7. true
8. no
1. curry comb, danndy brush, soft brush
2. Check the girth
3. false
4. Keep a safety distance of one horse's size
5. true
6. true
7. possible, but it is a sign of each trying to assert dominance
8. yes - to avoid mildew and salts from breaking down the leather
1. second
2. check the girth
3. false
4. safety distance
5. true
6. true
7. true
8. yes
http://howrse.free.fr/ridlevel3.php...
you can find all the answer here ans when you get to level 4 just put 4 where the 3 is in the link and it will give you the answers to them too
Another western saddles question...?
Those of you who compete in specialist disciplines, reining, cutting, barrel racing etc. Do you use the same saddle when trail riding ? If so do you find it comfortable for long rides? If you don't, why not, and what do you use instead. Thanks for all info, I'm trying to make sure I get the right one.
Answers:
I don't have anything but barrel saddles, the only thing I ride in. I don't use any other saddle unless I was to do some roping, then I'd use a roping saddle as the barrel saddle horn will not hold up to the pressure of a calf.
I have a roping-style saddle, and I use it to ride around my property for long hours. It never really bothers me, but I won't say it's as comfortable a ride as a trail saddle.
If you want a saddle used for a wide array of things, look for one labeled as an "all-purpose" saddle. A "ranch" saddle works well too. It's more durable than many other types.
I use the same saddle for everything because its the only one that fits. I am down to a western style aussie saddle on my mule and so far the mule shows are saying they will allow it. *keeps fingers crossed*.
I would love to have some silver engorged show saddle for my mule, but I highly doubt all 4 feet would stay on the ground during a competition.
It all comes down to what fits your horse and its so hard to buy a catalog saddle and accomplish that. My recommendation and not sure how the UK works is, haul your horse to a saddle shop and try them on in the parking lot, that saves alot more money and the professional is right there :)
Good luck and hope you find the perfect saddle. I know mine is still out there waiting for me, locked in some hidden place!
It depends on the discipline and quality of the saddle you pick. A $189 saddle with tack BIN special on Ebay will probably not be as comfortable for trail riding or for that matter the intended discipline. The saddles are different for the different disciplines to accomodate comfort for the horse and rider.
The kind of hide you have on your seat will depend on if you can use it for multiple disciplines. A roughout seat (sueded) is a little more versatile for pretty much any discipline because the texture keeps you from moving. However, a smooth seat (leather or leatherlike) is pretty much good for trail riding because there is a slide factor. Other things to consider are if you are comfortable in a higher cantle or would prefer a lower cantle. Some people will tell you if your saddle is fitted properly you won't slide - from my own personal experience that is B.S.
Personally I am a fan of Circle Y.
I have a Circle Y Proven Stone barrel saddle and I can use that for trail rides as well - the hip hugger set makes it especially comfortable. I also have a Circle Y Flex Lite trail saddle (Basket Flower) and it has a memory foam seat in it and I can use that for pretty much any cow disciplines as well as trail riding. Circle Y has the highest quality leather and a life time guarentee with the flex trees. The Flex Tree also gives upt 3" (incase your horse is wider that the standard bars). Simco makes a trail saddle with a gel seat *drool*. I have had Billy Cook saddles in the past - those are good too but my latest addition to the family is too tall to hoist a heavy saddle (I'm too lazy).
My suggestion is not to buy a saddle unless you can sit in it. Also make sure that the saddle fits your horse - any dry spots after a ride means the saddle doesn't fit properly or it was placed improperly. In theory a bundled package from Ebay would be great but I have found that those are junk and don't last too long.
I trail ride in my Barrel Saddle, I have a trail/pleasure saddle too, but I found that both I and my horse were more comfortable in my barrel saddle for long rides.
I think you should ride on trails in a trail and/or roping/cutting saddle. No matter what brand the saddle, it all depends on the saddle maker as to how comfortable
barel racing saddles are hard and stiff i thank a good cushoned saddle would be nice!
If the saddle fits your horse, and it fits you, then it can be about any "type" of saddle...specialty saddles mostly differ in horn length, or seat depth, and those things probably won't make a big difference in trail riding. Barrel saddles are sometimes forward rigged, and are lighter weight than roper or pleasure saddles. Equitation saddles often have a very deep seat that will not allow you to shift around much. I personally like vintage ranch saddles for trail riding ( Simcos, Long Horns, Circle Y's) with smooth leather seats and light padding.they are well built, and are designed for long hours in the saddle. ( and you can do most other things off of them too...though they aren't usually fancy enough to show WP in.)
The best saddle I have ever found and ridden in is a the Bob Marshall Sport Saddle. I use it for long and short rides, gymkhanas, parades, and cutting. Nothing compares to the treeless Sport Saddle. It's more comfortable for the horse and you! Here's a link for info on the Sport Saddle. You will love it and NEVER be sorry!
http://www.savvysportsaddle.com/...
I team rope and trail ride with the same saddle and its perfectly comfortable for me, and i've had the saddle for years and its perfect.
Same horse..same saddle everytime, everyplace
All saddle are good for trail riding except barrel saddles, in my opion just because they area REALLY uncomfortable.
Hope this helps!
I can't help you with this question but if you have anymore questions click on my icon and e-mail me
Answers:
I don't have anything but barrel saddles, the only thing I ride in. I don't use any other saddle unless I was to do some roping, then I'd use a roping saddle as the barrel saddle horn will not hold up to the pressure of a calf.
I have a roping-style saddle, and I use it to ride around my property for long hours. It never really bothers me, but I won't say it's as comfortable a ride as a trail saddle.
If you want a saddle used for a wide array of things, look for one labeled as an "all-purpose" saddle. A "ranch" saddle works well too. It's more durable than many other types.
I use the same saddle for everything because its the only one that fits. I am down to a western style aussie saddle on my mule and so far the mule shows are saying they will allow it. *keeps fingers crossed*.
I would love to have some silver engorged show saddle for my mule, but I highly doubt all 4 feet would stay on the ground during a competition.
It all comes down to what fits your horse and its so hard to buy a catalog saddle and accomplish that. My recommendation and not sure how the UK works is, haul your horse to a saddle shop and try them on in the parking lot, that saves alot more money and the professional is right there :)
Good luck and hope you find the perfect saddle. I know mine is still out there waiting for me, locked in some hidden place!
It depends on the discipline and quality of the saddle you pick. A $189 saddle with tack BIN special on Ebay will probably not be as comfortable for trail riding or for that matter the intended discipline. The saddles are different for the different disciplines to accomodate comfort for the horse and rider.
The kind of hide you have on your seat will depend on if you can use it for multiple disciplines. A roughout seat (sueded) is a little more versatile for pretty much any discipline because the texture keeps you from moving. However, a smooth seat (leather or leatherlike) is pretty much good for trail riding because there is a slide factor. Other things to consider are if you are comfortable in a higher cantle or would prefer a lower cantle. Some people will tell you if your saddle is fitted properly you won't slide - from my own personal experience that is B.S.
Personally I am a fan of Circle Y.
I have a Circle Y Proven Stone barrel saddle and I can use that for trail rides as well - the hip hugger set makes it especially comfortable. I also have a Circle Y Flex Lite trail saddle (Basket Flower) and it has a memory foam seat in it and I can use that for pretty much any cow disciplines as well as trail riding. Circle Y has the highest quality leather and a life time guarentee with the flex trees. The Flex Tree also gives upt 3" (incase your horse is wider that the standard bars). Simco makes a trail saddle with a gel seat *drool*. I have had Billy Cook saddles in the past - those are good too but my latest addition to the family is too tall to hoist a heavy saddle (I'm too lazy).
My suggestion is not to buy a saddle unless you can sit in it. Also make sure that the saddle fits your horse - any dry spots after a ride means the saddle doesn't fit properly or it was placed improperly. In theory a bundled package from Ebay would be great but I have found that those are junk and don't last too long.
I trail ride in my Barrel Saddle, I have a trail/pleasure saddle too, but I found that both I and my horse were more comfortable in my barrel saddle for long rides.
I think you should ride on trails in a trail and/or roping/cutting saddle. No matter what brand the saddle, it all depends on the saddle maker as to how comfortable
barel racing saddles are hard and stiff i thank a good cushoned saddle would be nice!
If the saddle fits your horse, and it fits you, then it can be about any "type" of saddle...specialty saddles mostly differ in horn length, or seat depth, and those things probably won't make a big difference in trail riding. Barrel saddles are sometimes forward rigged, and are lighter weight than roper or pleasure saddles. Equitation saddles often have a very deep seat that will not allow you to shift around much. I personally like vintage ranch saddles for trail riding ( Simcos, Long Horns, Circle Y's) with smooth leather seats and light padding.they are well built, and are designed for long hours in the saddle. ( and you can do most other things off of them too...though they aren't usually fancy enough to show WP in.)
The best saddle I have ever found and ridden in is a the Bob Marshall Sport Saddle. I use it for long and short rides, gymkhanas, parades, and cutting. Nothing compares to the treeless Sport Saddle. It's more comfortable for the horse and you! Here's a link for info on the Sport Saddle. You will love it and NEVER be sorry!
http://www.savvysportsaddle.com/...
I team rope and trail ride with the same saddle and its perfectly comfortable for me, and i've had the saddle for years and its perfect.
Same horse..same saddle everytime, everyplace
All saddle are good for trail riding except barrel saddles, in my opion just because they area REALLY uncomfortable.
Hope this helps!
I can't help you with this question but if you have anymore questions click on my icon and e-mail me
Another Question?
well, last time i entered a halter class at the camp, my friend and i groomed our horse every day during freetime, because he was a mess, and also cause he was my fave horse and grooming him just gave him company and i felt happy.he has one of the stalls that face the main walkway, so all the counselors/judges saw me grooming him. (i groomed even if the daily halter prep hadnt started yet)
do you think that the judges thought i was trying too hard and thats y i didnt place? (im not trying to be a goodie 2 shoes) but all my friends said he was amazingly groomed, and that i should have won...
the judges picked the winning horse because he felt fuzzy! they said so!
oh well, but do u think grooming for fun made them think i was a goodie 2 shoes, or what's ur opinion?
Answers:
Generally halter class is "supposed" to be judged on the horse's conformattion, nothing else. A well groomed horse looks presentable in ring, but when it comes down to everything it's only supposed to be the best conformation that wins the blue ribbon. Each judge is different in their judging style and what they like to see, so even though this judge didnt place your horse, another judge might have. Placing is just merely the judges opinion of your horse. So I highly doubt that the judge thought you were a goodie 2 shoes. But did probably appreciate the fact that you spent so much time grooming your horse to look presentable for the show.
That is strange to say they picked the winner because he felt "fuzzy." Was it a winter show? Maybe they were looking to see if he had a proper winder coat grown in. It's not that plausible I know, but it's the only explaination that I can think of. That or the judges just liked fuzzy horses!
Grooming for fun is one of the best things you can do for your horse! I don't see why they would think you were trying too hard to win; it's a great way to spend time with your horse and regular grooming improves their health. Good job!
first of all ive been around horses my hole like and these are based on my experiences. i doubt that the judge thought you were trying to hard they usually like effort but it depends on what kinda show yall were entering.. the other horse may have just been better built.. you apperance usually also effects somewhat (not how pretty you are but your choices in clothing like if it was a showmanship class you would dress fancier than a reining class) some times judges favor the person who hired them also..but i doubt they thought you were a goodie 2 shoes though.. good luck on your next show =)
No, they didn't think that. There was more to it than that.
nope not at all! is brushing your own hair making you a goodie 2 shoes? but the judge thing? they most likely were not real judges. if they were a real judge, they would have looked at the horse's apperance and yours, and the performance. why were they touching the horse in the first place?
The judges said they picked the winner because he was fuzzy? What kind of judges are they? Are they judging stuffed animals?
A halter horse is a horse who has good confirmation, balanced, a nice neck, head, withers, hind quarters and tracks well. Good grief. It saddens me to hear the judges picked the winner because he was FUZZY. I just fainted.
do you think that the judges thought i was trying too hard and thats y i didnt place? (im not trying to be a goodie 2 shoes) but all my friends said he was amazingly groomed, and that i should have won...
the judges picked the winning horse because he felt fuzzy! they said so!
oh well, but do u think grooming for fun made them think i was a goodie 2 shoes, or what's ur opinion?
Answers:
Generally halter class is "supposed" to be judged on the horse's conformattion, nothing else. A well groomed horse looks presentable in ring, but when it comes down to everything it's only supposed to be the best conformation that wins the blue ribbon. Each judge is different in their judging style and what they like to see, so even though this judge didnt place your horse, another judge might have. Placing is just merely the judges opinion of your horse. So I highly doubt that the judge thought you were a goodie 2 shoes. But did probably appreciate the fact that you spent so much time grooming your horse to look presentable for the show.
That is strange to say they picked the winner because he felt "fuzzy." Was it a winter show? Maybe they were looking to see if he had a proper winder coat grown in. It's not that plausible I know, but it's the only explaination that I can think of. That or the judges just liked fuzzy horses!
Grooming for fun is one of the best things you can do for your horse! I don't see why they would think you were trying too hard to win; it's a great way to spend time with your horse and regular grooming improves their health. Good job!
first of all ive been around horses my hole like and these are based on my experiences. i doubt that the judge thought you were trying to hard they usually like effort but it depends on what kinda show yall were entering.. the other horse may have just been better built.. you apperance usually also effects somewhat (not how pretty you are but your choices in clothing like if it was a showmanship class you would dress fancier than a reining class) some times judges favor the person who hired them also..but i doubt they thought you were a goodie 2 shoes though.. good luck on your next show =)
No, they didn't think that. There was more to it than that.
nope not at all! is brushing your own hair making you a goodie 2 shoes? but the judge thing? they most likely were not real judges. if they were a real judge, they would have looked at the horse's apperance and yours, and the performance. why were they touching the horse in the first place?
The judges said they picked the winner because he was fuzzy? What kind of judges are they? Are they judging stuffed animals?
A halter horse is a horse who has good confirmation, balanced, a nice neck, head, withers, hind quarters and tracks well. Good grief. It saddens me to hear the judges picked the winner because he was FUZZY. I just fainted.
Another question about foals?
thanks for your answers last time they were really helpful i just hav a few more questions to ask. can u tell me exactly wat i do with the umbilical cord every detail please like how long after to cut it and how short to cut it etc. and also is it really necessary to get the vet out? the lady who gave me my mare has said she has never had the vet out for any of hers and has been breeding for years and years and is very good with horses and told me i shouldnt need to just wondering wat ur opinion is on that? and also do u think its ok to let my mare foal in my round yard which is sand covered and then move her back to the paddock after she has had the foal? its the safest fences i hav but wasnt sure about the sandy ground is that alright?
Answers:
A clean stall bedded in straw or an open field with good grass are the best places to foal out a mare. In some areas where clean grass hay is cheaper than straw, the hay makes a good substitute. If you do need to use the sandy round pen, treat it like a stall and clean up any manure, but don't add straw. Fencing is a big consideration. A mare can be on a 20 acre field by herself, and still foal next to the only place where a woven wire fence was a foot off the ground. It was enough room for the foal to get on the outside of the fence. If everything goes correctly, there is no need to call the vet until it is time to draw a blood sample to check that the foal got enough colostrum (first milk).
I am going to assume you have never seen a mare foal. So... When the mare is getting close to foaling, you will notice her bag (udder) begin to fill, usually starting several weeks before she foals. By about a week before (usually, but sometimes not until a day or two before), the bag will have become very full and hard. The size depends on breed and if the mare has had other foals. Maidens (first foal mares) and quarter horses tend to be smaller. Draft and standardbred tend to be larger. In the same period, you may notice the mare's muscling in her hind quarters begin to "fall off." Basically, she is loosing muscle tone to allow the foal to pass. If you tap her with your fingers, her croup will wiggle like Jello. For later comparison, take note now how hard or easy it is for you to lift her tail and the shape of her genitalia.
Within about 12 hours of foaling (but sometimes several days before or only an hour before), the mare's nipples will begin to "wax." This is little drops of colostrum leaking from the opennings. When you see it, you'll know why it is called waxing. This is the biggest indicator the foal will be here soon.
Other things I watched for in a mare I expected to foal soon included a tail which lifts as if there was no muscle tension, a change in attitude (a friendly mare being standoffish or a less friendly mare looking for attention), croup muscling which quivers when tapped and a vulva which has become very loose and soft (like a candle left in the sun too long).
Some mares break water slowly in a trickle, some fast in a gush. If her tail doesn't come down when the flow stops, she has broke water. If she relaxes her tail and it drops to her normal position, she probably was just urinating. Once the water breaks, the foal should be out within 20 minutes or so. Any longer is cause for concern. Within a couple minutes of the water breaking, you should see the foal's two front feet and nose covered by the amnionic sack (It has a longer name, something like chorioamnion I think. It is translucent white, like thick plastic). Sometimes one foot will be at about knee level of the other leg.
As soon as possible, break the amnion and push it back from the foal's head, but leave it around its body if you are using your sandy roundpen. Run your hand firmly down the foal's nose to help clear its nostrils at the same time. You may loose the amnion's weight to help the mare pass the placenta, but a (doubled) bag with 2 to 4 quarts of water can be tied to the dangling umbilical with hay string to make up for the loss. Leaving the amnion under the foal will help keep the umbilical clean. Let the umbilical cord break naturally when the mare stands up. If you are attending the birth, be careful. Some mares can be agressive when they stand up. Most will accept your presence. A couple even tried licking me along with the foal.
Treat the umbilical cord on the foal as soon as it breaks with strong iodine. I liked to use a spray bottle set to give a heavy mist. Spray it again after the foal dries and a third time when you have the foal caught to draw blood. You cannot spray it too much. There are other products you could use, but the farms I worked at had poor results with them. Using the strong iodine at least three times, there were almost no infected navels (an infected navel looks and feels wet when the foal is a couple days or a week old).
The foal should be sitting sternal within about 10 minutes. The sooner the better to drain the rest of the fluids from its lungs. You can push it sternal and help it balance as soon as it is out. Within 45 minutes to an hour and a half, the foal should be up and trying to nurse. In my experience with many standarbreds and a handful of quarter horses and arabs, the smaller the foal, the quicker it is up, the bigger the foal, the longer it takes it to find its feet.
Big foals may need more help getting up and staying up. It seemed they did better if I let them handle their own front end and I helped with a hand getting their hips over their back feet. I used their tail like a handle to help them balance. The suckle reflex should be kicking in about this time also. Tickle its nose and the foal will suck its top lip. Don't let it suck your fingers. It will be harder to get the foal to nurse from the mare.
If the foal has not nursed within about 2 hours, it is time to help it find the right area. It doesn't work to push the head down. What helps is to tickle its nose and get it to follow your fingers to the bottom of the mare's bag. Be persistent. If the foal has not nursed by 4 hours, it will need more help. On one farm, the on-site vet was called to tube feed the foal with colostrum from the mare. On another farm, without a resident vet, we milked the mare and bottle fed the foal about 12-16oz using a goat size nipple and a plastic pop bottle. This does make it harder to get the foal nursing from the mare, but I have seen orphans, fed from a bottle for 3 days, nurse from a nurse mare 20 minutes after they were introduced.
When to call for help: If you don't see the nose and both front feet within 10 to 15 minutes of the water breaking. If a front leg is folded at the knee. If the foal seems stuck hard at the shoulders (at the hips, there usually isn't time to get more help). If you see or feel a third foot. A vet isn't necessarily needed, but you will need help from someone who is experienced with malpresentations, even if it is with cattle (the theory is the same).
Talk to your vet about all this beforehand and follow his/her recommendations. You may also want to find a good book with a solid section on foaling. This is already a short thesis, so if you have more questions, feel free to email me at r2mm@yahoo.com Good luck!
When a foal is born the umbiblical cord will break on its own, you shouldn't have to touch it. When the foal stands for the first time you will see what appears to be a thick string hanging from its belly, that is the cord.
Try not to interfere with the dam and foal, let them bond.
Keep an eye on the mare, if you are there during the birthing process. If you don't see two hooves coming out, followed by the head and the mare is really straining, then call the vet. Most mares will foal with no problem, and if your mare has foaled before with no trouble, then most likely she will not have any trouble this time.
A clean dry area covered by straw, or out in a clean pasture is the best place for a mare to foal. Sand might accidently be injested into the foals lungs while trying to stand the first time. But anywhere clean is fine, just keep a close eye on mare and foal. Most of my mares foal out in the pasture. I have never had any problem.
Once the foal arrives call your vet and make an appointment to come out after a couple of days to check both mare and foal and to get the foal's first shots.
If you are there at the birth watch to be sure the foal stands and suckles within a couple of hours, usually less than one hour with a healthy baby.
Good luck!
She should be in a stall, with a soft floor. In the open she'll be more anxious, as both she and the foal will be at their most vulnerable. The sand isn't as good for the baby to be on either. Clean shavings or straw in the stall, too. As for the umbilical cord - you shouldn't have to cut it, but if you do, leave about an inch of it. Be sure to tie it off well there, and also on the placenta side of the cord so that end doesn't bleed out too. If the placenta is out, it'll be messy if it bleeds... if it's not, it could still be attached to the mare's uterus and she could bleed to death. That's where a vet's presence would come in handy, if the sac doesn't come out. Vets are also handy when it's a breech birth - butt first. I'd let a vet take care of it, myself, and be there to watch and learn... next time, you'll know more and will make the decision that's most right for the mare and foal. Read the included links for more "official sounding" information than mine.
Good advice so far, I just wanted to add, dip the umbilical cord stump into iodine.
Firstly, don't cut the umbilical!. When the mare foals, leave them laying down as long as possible and get the foal by the front legs and drag it around to it's mother's nose and leave them. Premature breakage of the umbilical cord can cause massive blood loss. If the cord does break before the vessels inside have closed on their own, get a piece of thread or better still, buy a couple of clamps from your nearest vet supply and tie it off at the base. You should then put some iodine on the stump which will help prevent bleeding and infection.
Things to watch for, foal needs to stand and suck within about 4 hours, mare should lose placenta within the same time frame, if she's got excessive cramping, she's needs banamine and oxytocin to help the process along, ideally the foal needs an enema to clear the meconium.
We used to have mare motels on sand and we prefered not to let them foal there because sand can contain things like rotavirus which can be deadly to a foal. They also seemed more prone to getting septic joints when foaled down there. Sand will also stick to everything. Maybe cover that area in straw if you have nowhere else.
Very important, if the mare begins to foal and a red membrane begins to emerge, call the vet immediately as it's a red bag and very serious. Call the vet if the mare doesn't get up after foaling, if she's down a long time after foaling check her gums for color as she could have a rupture, call the vet if she doesn't lose the placenta or has excessive cramps, call the vet if the foal fails to stand and nurse. Why not contact your vet and go through all this with him beforehand and see if he thinks he needs to be there or perhaps ask some one with more experience to be there for back up and support? There are also some very good books that can cover all these things mentioned in more detail. That would be a good investment.
Good luck!
the umbilical cord breaks on its own- but dip the end(attached to the foal) in iodine to prevent an infection. the best place for foals to be born is in large stalls with deep straw bedding- the foal might try to eat shavings and sand will stick to the newborn(not good). since the woman who gave you the mare seems experienced, i'd have her there, and your vet's phone number, in case anything goes wrong. clean pastures without other horses are also good for foaling because the sun disinfects them daily.
The first thing is, DO NOT cut the umbilical cord. That is supplying blood to the baby. It will break on its on when mommy gets up. Now if she gets up right away after foaling you will have more bleeding with the umbi. Just pinch it with your fingers for about a minute, check to see if its bleeding and if not its time to put iodine on the cord. Best way to do this is with like a dixie cup. Fill it with iodine and slide the cup up the cord and swish around. Now I always dip the cord twice and I do this like a hour later. Now its good to get the poop out of the baby so you will want to give him a enema. I do this after the baby gets up. I would advise against letting the mare foal in the sand cause for one the baby can breath it in and injest it accidentaly. I prefer straw over anything but being out on a grassy paddock is even better. Its a good thing to have the vet come out not less then 6-8 hours after foal first nursed to check his IGG. This will tell you have the baby has the proper antibodies so you don't have a surprising death. Every now and then a kid may need plasma but too me its like 1 foal per year and I've been foaling 25 a year. Good luck Email if you have any more questions
When my mares had there babies (about eight of them) my parents and I delivered them we puts lots of iodine on the umbilical cord and it fell off on its own w/o getting infected. As for the delivery all of our foals were delivered on all different sorts of soil (sandy, rocky, grass, poopy, etc.) but one thing to make sure of is that there is no stud in because when there was a little colt born we fought like h*ll to get that baby out alive.
We leave our mares out in the pasture all year long, that way they will have already decided wear to have it. We never call the vet out unless the mare is having troubles, which normally doesn't happen very often. We don't do anything to the umbillical cord, some people would criticize for that, but we try to do everything aas natural as possible and we have never had that cause any problems. If you do want to do something, after it has broken off, it happens when they stand, spray an iodine spray on it. http://www.horse.com/products/sku-bca80.
Answers:
A clean stall bedded in straw or an open field with good grass are the best places to foal out a mare. In some areas where clean grass hay is cheaper than straw, the hay makes a good substitute. If you do need to use the sandy round pen, treat it like a stall and clean up any manure, but don't add straw. Fencing is a big consideration. A mare can be on a 20 acre field by herself, and still foal next to the only place where a woven wire fence was a foot off the ground. It was enough room for the foal to get on the outside of the fence. If everything goes correctly, there is no need to call the vet until it is time to draw a blood sample to check that the foal got enough colostrum (first milk).
I am going to assume you have never seen a mare foal. So... When the mare is getting close to foaling, you will notice her bag (udder) begin to fill, usually starting several weeks before she foals. By about a week before (usually, but sometimes not until a day or two before), the bag will have become very full and hard. The size depends on breed and if the mare has had other foals. Maidens (first foal mares) and quarter horses tend to be smaller. Draft and standardbred tend to be larger. In the same period, you may notice the mare's muscling in her hind quarters begin to "fall off." Basically, she is loosing muscle tone to allow the foal to pass. If you tap her with your fingers, her croup will wiggle like Jello. For later comparison, take note now how hard or easy it is for you to lift her tail and the shape of her genitalia.
Within about 12 hours of foaling (but sometimes several days before or only an hour before), the mare's nipples will begin to "wax." This is little drops of colostrum leaking from the opennings. When you see it, you'll know why it is called waxing. This is the biggest indicator the foal will be here soon.
Other things I watched for in a mare I expected to foal soon included a tail which lifts as if there was no muscle tension, a change in attitude (a friendly mare being standoffish or a less friendly mare looking for attention), croup muscling which quivers when tapped and a vulva which has become very loose and soft (like a candle left in the sun too long).
Some mares break water slowly in a trickle, some fast in a gush. If her tail doesn't come down when the flow stops, she has broke water. If she relaxes her tail and it drops to her normal position, she probably was just urinating. Once the water breaks, the foal should be out within 20 minutes or so. Any longer is cause for concern. Within a couple minutes of the water breaking, you should see the foal's two front feet and nose covered by the amnionic sack (It has a longer name, something like chorioamnion I think. It is translucent white, like thick plastic). Sometimes one foot will be at about knee level of the other leg.
As soon as possible, break the amnion and push it back from the foal's head, but leave it around its body if you are using your sandy roundpen. Run your hand firmly down the foal's nose to help clear its nostrils at the same time. You may loose the amnion's weight to help the mare pass the placenta, but a (doubled) bag with 2 to 4 quarts of water can be tied to the dangling umbilical with hay string to make up for the loss. Leaving the amnion under the foal will help keep the umbilical clean. Let the umbilical cord break naturally when the mare stands up. If you are attending the birth, be careful. Some mares can be agressive when they stand up. Most will accept your presence. A couple even tried licking me along with the foal.
Treat the umbilical cord on the foal as soon as it breaks with strong iodine. I liked to use a spray bottle set to give a heavy mist. Spray it again after the foal dries and a third time when you have the foal caught to draw blood. You cannot spray it too much. There are other products you could use, but the farms I worked at had poor results with them. Using the strong iodine at least three times, there were almost no infected navels (an infected navel looks and feels wet when the foal is a couple days or a week old).
The foal should be sitting sternal within about 10 minutes. The sooner the better to drain the rest of the fluids from its lungs. You can push it sternal and help it balance as soon as it is out. Within 45 minutes to an hour and a half, the foal should be up and trying to nurse. In my experience with many standarbreds and a handful of quarter horses and arabs, the smaller the foal, the quicker it is up, the bigger the foal, the longer it takes it to find its feet.
Big foals may need more help getting up and staying up. It seemed they did better if I let them handle their own front end and I helped with a hand getting their hips over their back feet. I used their tail like a handle to help them balance. The suckle reflex should be kicking in about this time also. Tickle its nose and the foal will suck its top lip. Don't let it suck your fingers. It will be harder to get the foal to nurse from the mare.
If the foal has not nursed within about 2 hours, it is time to help it find the right area. It doesn't work to push the head down. What helps is to tickle its nose and get it to follow your fingers to the bottom of the mare's bag. Be persistent. If the foal has not nursed by 4 hours, it will need more help. On one farm, the on-site vet was called to tube feed the foal with colostrum from the mare. On another farm, without a resident vet, we milked the mare and bottle fed the foal about 12-16oz using a goat size nipple and a plastic pop bottle. This does make it harder to get the foal nursing from the mare, but I have seen orphans, fed from a bottle for 3 days, nurse from a nurse mare 20 minutes after they were introduced.
When to call for help: If you don't see the nose and both front feet within 10 to 15 minutes of the water breaking. If a front leg is folded at the knee. If the foal seems stuck hard at the shoulders (at the hips, there usually isn't time to get more help). If you see or feel a third foot. A vet isn't necessarily needed, but you will need help from someone who is experienced with malpresentations, even if it is with cattle (the theory is the same).
Talk to your vet about all this beforehand and follow his/her recommendations. You may also want to find a good book with a solid section on foaling. This is already a short thesis, so if you have more questions, feel free to email me at r2mm@yahoo.com Good luck!
When a foal is born the umbiblical cord will break on its own, you shouldn't have to touch it. When the foal stands for the first time you will see what appears to be a thick string hanging from its belly, that is the cord.
Try not to interfere with the dam and foal, let them bond.
Keep an eye on the mare, if you are there during the birthing process. If you don't see two hooves coming out, followed by the head and the mare is really straining, then call the vet. Most mares will foal with no problem, and if your mare has foaled before with no trouble, then most likely she will not have any trouble this time.
A clean dry area covered by straw, or out in a clean pasture is the best place for a mare to foal. Sand might accidently be injested into the foals lungs while trying to stand the first time. But anywhere clean is fine, just keep a close eye on mare and foal. Most of my mares foal out in the pasture. I have never had any problem.
Once the foal arrives call your vet and make an appointment to come out after a couple of days to check both mare and foal and to get the foal's first shots.
If you are there at the birth watch to be sure the foal stands and suckles within a couple of hours, usually less than one hour with a healthy baby.
Good luck!
She should be in a stall, with a soft floor. In the open she'll be more anxious, as both she and the foal will be at their most vulnerable. The sand isn't as good for the baby to be on either. Clean shavings or straw in the stall, too. As for the umbilical cord - you shouldn't have to cut it, but if you do, leave about an inch of it. Be sure to tie it off well there, and also on the placenta side of the cord so that end doesn't bleed out too. If the placenta is out, it'll be messy if it bleeds... if it's not, it could still be attached to the mare's uterus and she could bleed to death. That's where a vet's presence would come in handy, if the sac doesn't come out. Vets are also handy when it's a breech birth - butt first. I'd let a vet take care of it, myself, and be there to watch and learn... next time, you'll know more and will make the decision that's most right for the mare and foal. Read the included links for more "official sounding" information than mine.
Good advice so far, I just wanted to add, dip the umbilical cord stump into iodine.
Firstly, don't cut the umbilical!. When the mare foals, leave them laying down as long as possible and get the foal by the front legs and drag it around to it's mother's nose and leave them. Premature breakage of the umbilical cord can cause massive blood loss. If the cord does break before the vessels inside have closed on their own, get a piece of thread or better still, buy a couple of clamps from your nearest vet supply and tie it off at the base. You should then put some iodine on the stump which will help prevent bleeding and infection.
Things to watch for, foal needs to stand and suck within about 4 hours, mare should lose placenta within the same time frame, if she's got excessive cramping, she's needs banamine and oxytocin to help the process along, ideally the foal needs an enema to clear the meconium.
We used to have mare motels on sand and we prefered not to let them foal there because sand can contain things like rotavirus which can be deadly to a foal. They also seemed more prone to getting septic joints when foaled down there. Sand will also stick to everything. Maybe cover that area in straw if you have nowhere else.
Very important, if the mare begins to foal and a red membrane begins to emerge, call the vet immediately as it's a red bag and very serious. Call the vet if the mare doesn't get up after foaling, if she's down a long time after foaling check her gums for color as she could have a rupture, call the vet if she doesn't lose the placenta or has excessive cramps, call the vet if the foal fails to stand and nurse. Why not contact your vet and go through all this with him beforehand and see if he thinks he needs to be there or perhaps ask some one with more experience to be there for back up and support? There are also some very good books that can cover all these things mentioned in more detail. That would be a good investment.
Good luck!
the umbilical cord breaks on its own- but dip the end(attached to the foal) in iodine to prevent an infection. the best place for foals to be born is in large stalls with deep straw bedding- the foal might try to eat shavings and sand will stick to the newborn(not good). since the woman who gave you the mare seems experienced, i'd have her there, and your vet's phone number, in case anything goes wrong. clean pastures without other horses are also good for foaling because the sun disinfects them daily.
The first thing is, DO NOT cut the umbilical cord. That is supplying blood to the baby. It will break on its on when mommy gets up. Now if she gets up right away after foaling you will have more bleeding with the umbi. Just pinch it with your fingers for about a minute, check to see if its bleeding and if not its time to put iodine on the cord. Best way to do this is with like a dixie cup. Fill it with iodine and slide the cup up the cord and swish around. Now I always dip the cord twice and I do this like a hour later. Now its good to get the poop out of the baby so you will want to give him a enema. I do this after the baby gets up. I would advise against letting the mare foal in the sand cause for one the baby can breath it in and injest it accidentaly. I prefer straw over anything but being out on a grassy paddock is even better. Its a good thing to have the vet come out not less then 6-8 hours after foal first nursed to check his IGG. This will tell you have the baby has the proper antibodies so you don't have a surprising death. Every now and then a kid may need plasma but too me its like 1 foal per year and I've been foaling 25 a year. Good luck Email if you have any more questions
When my mares had there babies (about eight of them) my parents and I delivered them we puts lots of iodine on the umbilical cord and it fell off on its own w/o getting infected. As for the delivery all of our foals were delivered on all different sorts of soil (sandy, rocky, grass, poopy, etc.) but one thing to make sure of is that there is no stud in because when there was a little colt born we fought like h*ll to get that baby out alive.
We leave our mares out in the pasture all year long, that way they will have already decided wear to have it. We never call the vet out unless the mare is having troubles, which normally doesn't happen very often. We don't do anything to the umbillical cord, some people would criticize for that, but we try to do everything aas natural as possible and we have never had that cause any problems. If you do want to do something, after it has broken off, it happens when they stand, spray an iodine spray on it. http://www.horse.com/products/sku-bca80.
Another question about being an equine vet?
Ok.. well..
Will volunteering at the local zoo, volunteering at an art school, and riding for many years help me get into a college?
I'm not saying that it will do all the work for me, but will it look good?
When I'm 16, I also want to get a job at Pet's Mart in the Horses' section. will that be good? And maybe even work at a stable... as a stable hand when I'm around 17...
what do you think? (as far as volunteering and working info)?
thank you!
Answers:
Jaja,
Volunteering for ANYTHING in your chosen field is a great idea! It not only gives you experience and knowledge, but might also lead to a part-time job that would pay for doing what you love to do. What could be better than that?
One way that volunteering could help with college is that many colleges require applicants to write an essay about something that interests them. Your volunteer experience would give you a lot to write about; and, as your poetry continues to improve, you might even include a short poem in the essay.
Your experience will help you after college, too. Whether it is volunteer work or a paid job, prospective employers are most interested in those who have some kind of work-related experience.
搂
Of course it will look good. But don't go crazy!
Petsmart is no longer carrying the horse section because State Line Tack sold out to another company so you may want to re-think that.
It will all look good and give you experience too. I didn't see your previous question but If I were you I would call around to local equine vets and offer your free assistance to them if you could hang at thier clinic and maybe ride with them on vet calls. You could be a free helper occassionally. I would get a job or volunteer as a stable hand. Before you can be an equine vet you should learn how to handle horses and working around them will help. I hired many girls as young as 14 at my barns and they worked out great. Lots of larger riding stables have a kids camp or kids activities and are looking for cheap or free help, especially over the summer. The other stuff sounds good too, but you need to focus on as much hands on as possible and eventually you will gain the needed experience and reputation you will need to get better jobs with equine which will go hand in hand with your career.
We really do need more equine/large animal vets, there is a shortage of them and I believe there are lots of school funding programs avalaible to interested individuals. I would check those too, I don't know how close you are to school but It wouldn't hurt to know what is avaiable.
That's all great but your best bet is to work for an Equine vet. Until you do that you won't know if you really want to go into this field. Some vets allow younger children to shadow them for a few days. Try to find one that will, and you can accompany the vet on check-ups and surgeries. You won't know how you handle the blood and the needles until you try it. The thing vet schools look at most is actual Veterinary experience. You need it to get into vet school, to show that you are motivated and interested in the field. Also because they don't' want you coming to school there and finding out halfway through that you cannot draw blood without passing out or something like that.
Also, do you know what school you would like to attend college-wise? I don't know where you live but I attend Rutgers University Cook College (now School of Environmental and Biological Sciences) and am active in the Equine Science club as well as a research program that concentrates on Equine Nutrition and Physiology. If you're interested I'd love to talk to you more about what it takes to get into vet school (I'm a Pre-Vet student) as well as what Cook College offers.
Feel free to contact me if you have more questions! :)
Volunteer work always looks good when applying to college as well as on future resumes. Volunteering/working somewhere that involves animals will be even better since you'll be gaining valuable experience in your future field.
the Volunteer work at a zoo will look good, but riding isn't all too important, hey'll aknowledge you as being socially interactive, but working with animals will be the best for you, petsmart jobs dont do much good for you, if you can find a good veterinary 4-H clinic to take, they will jump 4 you! Also, you can technically be a stable hand before you turn 17, i was a stable hand when i turned 13! i helped groom, feed, water, and train, i was a good rider, so i broke a few green horses, i think my only challenge was a 3 yr old arab, he was a crazy stallion. his father was Magnum Psyche, look him up, he is beautiful.
Will volunteering at the local zoo, volunteering at an art school, and riding for many years help me get into a college?
I'm not saying that it will do all the work for me, but will it look good?
When I'm 16, I also want to get a job at Pet's Mart in the Horses' section. will that be good? And maybe even work at a stable... as a stable hand when I'm around 17...
what do you think? (as far as volunteering and working info)?
thank you!
Answers:
Jaja,
Volunteering for ANYTHING in your chosen field is a great idea! It not only gives you experience and knowledge, but might also lead to a part-time job that would pay for doing what you love to do. What could be better than that?
One way that volunteering could help with college is that many colleges require applicants to write an essay about something that interests them. Your volunteer experience would give you a lot to write about; and, as your poetry continues to improve, you might even include a short poem in the essay.
Your experience will help you after college, too. Whether it is volunteer work or a paid job, prospective employers are most interested in those who have some kind of work-related experience.
搂
Of course it will look good. But don't go crazy!
Petsmart is no longer carrying the horse section because State Line Tack sold out to another company so you may want to re-think that.
It will all look good and give you experience too. I didn't see your previous question but If I were you I would call around to local equine vets and offer your free assistance to them if you could hang at thier clinic and maybe ride with them on vet calls. You could be a free helper occassionally. I would get a job or volunteer as a stable hand. Before you can be an equine vet you should learn how to handle horses and working around them will help. I hired many girls as young as 14 at my barns and they worked out great. Lots of larger riding stables have a kids camp or kids activities and are looking for cheap or free help, especially over the summer. The other stuff sounds good too, but you need to focus on as much hands on as possible and eventually you will gain the needed experience and reputation you will need to get better jobs with equine which will go hand in hand with your career.
We really do need more equine/large animal vets, there is a shortage of them and I believe there are lots of school funding programs avalaible to interested individuals. I would check those too, I don't know how close you are to school but It wouldn't hurt to know what is avaiable.
That's all great but your best bet is to work for an Equine vet. Until you do that you won't know if you really want to go into this field. Some vets allow younger children to shadow them for a few days. Try to find one that will, and you can accompany the vet on check-ups and surgeries. You won't know how you handle the blood and the needles until you try it. The thing vet schools look at most is actual Veterinary experience. You need it to get into vet school, to show that you are motivated and interested in the field. Also because they don't' want you coming to school there and finding out halfway through that you cannot draw blood without passing out or something like that.
Also, do you know what school you would like to attend college-wise? I don't know where you live but I attend Rutgers University Cook College (now School of Environmental and Biological Sciences) and am active in the Equine Science club as well as a research program that concentrates on Equine Nutrition and Physiology. If you're interested I'd love to talk to you more about what it takes to get into vet school (I'm a Pre-Vet student) as well as what Cook College offers.
Feel free to contact me if you have more questions! :)
Volunteer work always looks good when applying to college as well as on future resumes. Volunteering/working somewhere that involves animals will be even better since you'll be gaining valuable experience in your future field.
the Volunteer work at a zoo will look good, but riding isn't all too important, hey'll aknowledge you as being socially interactive, but working with animals will be the best for you, petsmart jobs dont do much good for you, if you can find a good veterinary 4-H clinic to take, they will jump 4 you! Also, you can technically be a stable hand before you turn 17, i was a stable hand when i turned 13! i helped groom, feed, water, and train, i was a good rider, so i broke a few green horses, i think my only challenge was a 3 yr old arab, he was a crazy stallion. his father was Magnum Psyche, look him up, he is beautiful.
Another problem, not my horse though...?
My friends gelding has alot of extra fluid in his hock joint. They got the vet to inject the joints, but the fluid just built up again. My question is, what is the fluid doing and does it cause problems? i have heard that it can lead to dry hock joints (no senovial fluid). is that true? what should she do about it. B/c getting hocks done costs about 250$ in our area???
Answers:
from what you have said it sounds like the horse does not have any problems because of the fluid build up and having it injected is just so it does not look bad. your friend should not worry about it as long as the vet knows it is there and has no problem with it. she is just fine with what she is doing right know and if the horse shows know sings of lameness then it is all right to ride.
without knowing the vets diagnoses of the reason for the fluid build up, it is hard to say what treatment options there are
Is the vet doing inter-articular injections (actually in the joint) or is he draining fluid out of a bog spavin? If he is doing joint injections what is he injecting with? How long did it take for the fluid to build back up? Is the fluid built up around the entire hock joint or located in just one area. Is the horse lame when the joint is fluid filled? It is hard to help answer your question without some of this information. If the vet is just using cortisone to inject in the joint that is not as beneficial as hyloronic acid which in artificial joint fluid. There are 3 places to do inter-articular injections (upper, lower and middle joint of the hock). Is he doing all three? The hock joints can actually fuse over time but this in itself does not have to be a bad thing. It happened to my thoroughbred a veteran of 165 races over 10 years. He still traveled sound and even behind. Tthe one hock that fused just flexed slightly differently from the other. Also, often when the hocks are worked on but you don't get the improvement you want or it doesn't last as long as you think it should look to the stifles as they could be the real culprit and often times need to be injected as well.
Hi just read your update. Sounds like it is more cosmetic than that it is actually effecting the way your friends horse is travelling. Which if that is the case is not much to worry about. It doesn't sound like the horse is over worked either. As far as the footing that would depend on how soft it is. I myself much prefer a good cushion rather than hard ground but if the footing is too deep or to loose (breaks away too easily) this can put a strain on hocks, stifles, ligaments and tendons. Think of sand at the beach. You want something that approximates the sand closer to the shoreline (the sand with moisture that gives your foot some purchase) rather than what you usually park your towel on.
Answers:
from what you have said it sounds like the horse does not have any problems because of the fluid build up and having it injected is just so it does not look bad. your friend should not worry about it as long as the vet knows it is there and has no problem with it. she is just fine with what she is doing right know and if the horse shows know sings of lameness then it is all right to ride.
without knowing the vets diagnoses of the reason for the fluid build up, it is hard to say what treatment options there are
Is the vet doing inter-articular injections (actually in the joint) or is he draining fluid out of a bog spavin? If he is doing joint injections what is he injecting with? How long did it take for the fluid to build back up? Is the fluid built up around the entire hock joint or located in just one area. Is the horse lame when the joint is fluid filled? It is hard to help answer your question without some of this information. If the vet is just using cortisone to inject in the joint that is not as beneficial as hyloronic acid which in artificial joint fluid. There are 3 places to do inter-articular injections (upper, lower and middle joint of the hock). Is he doing all three? The hock joints can actually fuse over time but this in itself does not have to be a bad thing. It happened to my thoroughbred a veteran of 165 races over 10 years. He still traveled sound and even behind. Tthe one hock that fused just flexed slightly differently from the other. Also, often when the hocks are worked on but you don't get the improvement you want or it doesn't last as long as you think it should look to the stifles as they could be the real culprit and often times need to be injected as well.
Hi just read your update. Sounds like it is more cosmetic than that it is actually effecting the way your friends horse is travelling. Which if that is the case is not much to worry about. It doesn't sound like the horse is over worked either. As far as the footing that would depend on how soft it is. I myself much prefer a good cushion rather than hard ground but if the footing is too deep or to loose (breaks away too easily) this can put a strain on hocks, stifles, ligaments and tendons. Think of sand at the beach. You want something that approximates the sand closer to the shoreline (the sand with moisture that gives your foot some purchase) rather than what you usually park your towel on.
Another name question for horses?
maybe you guys can tell me the names of some of your horses so i can get some ideas... not to offend you guys
Answers:
Here are just some names for horses. I haven't owned any, just rode some.
Thunder, Fleetfoot, Jet, Shadow, Firefly, Minx, Lady, Buttercream, Tipsy, Sierra, Cassanova
My horses were called Pepper and Jenny.
In "Little House On The Prairie" Laura Ingalls had a horse she called "Bunny" because of its long ears.
There's...
Blue - The young blue roan
Focker- The big, mean roping paint gelding
Lloyd - The big, old ropign sorrel gelding
Clyde - The young, bay racing gelding
Fred - The young, hyper, racing, sorrel gelding
Chevy(Piggy) - The Young, racing, chestnut mare
Nijara - The middle aged brood mare
Beauty - A medicine hat paint
Sorrel - a racing sorrel mare
Bud - The sorrel stud
Cash - Out state champion roping stallion
Hope those give you ideas!
Nikita, Chief, Nebraska, J.R., Thunder, Lightening, Diamond, Pepper, Jerry, Ace, Pete, Rosey, Strawberry, Duke, Morgan, Ghost, Midnight, Lady, Fiddley-dee, Champ, Smokey, Shrek, Blue, Spike, Dusty, Polly, Buck, Prince, Copper, Saba, (i've had a lot of horses) hope this helps
Windwalker, Her nickname was Windy
how about princess of charms *aka* charms
or - Dream of heart works *aka* dream
or- Moonlight Minute *aka* minnie
or-Pedals of the night *aka* pedals
i hope i helped good luck =)
Well, right now I have Stonewall Stella and Stonewall Blanche and their fillies Gwyn (short for Gwynevier, the farm we bought used to be an exotic animal rescue and they had camels. Gwyn was born in a camel lot, har har) and Nyx, because she came out black as night! But now both are shedding out to show their Appaloosa heritage. Here's pics,
www.blackroot.org/farm
We have also had Princes Jim (Jim), Bright Joker Eyes (Bright), Gypsy, Early (he was a premie,) Sweetheart, Chico, Rocket, Jean, L.A. Colt 45 (Colt,) Maranatha, Joy, Co-Suede (grandson of Colida,) Fuzzy, Equipoise, Steel, Wapiti, Cream (she was a few spot and all white, like fresh cream,) Blue, and heck, many more. Mostly broodmares, only 5 stallions over the years.
Horses I have ridden Flako, Marcus, Aaron,Cagney,Gyspey,Toto,Jordo... Warrie, Robbie,Chester
Other names that may be of interest to you
Aussie,Barney,Billy Boy,Carlos,Frankie,Frinton,Jet... Ross,Shug, Sparkii,Taco, Tosca,Wally,Betsy,BettyBoo,Bla... Hannah,Midnight,Ophelia,Sheena... Bounce,Andy,Butter,Chucky,Earl... Lilly,Todd,Twinkle
Poncho, Matilda, Zaney, Classic, Caroline, Santee, Treasure, Clyde, Freedom, Lucky, Gypsy, Gretta, Dancer, Ty, Honey, Cash, Prince, Cowboy, Daisy, Penny, Danni, Firefly, Chole, Gabby, Jaybez, Josa, Clue, Midnight, Fire, Amber, Dottie, Lightning.the 1st 4 horses are mine.the 23 after that at Heritage Hall Stables horses.the last 5 are some of Black Bottom Stables horses
lilly-welsh mountain pony
bobby-trotter/thougherbread paleface's son!
ace-quaterhorse
mandy-ASH
whispering jack-ASH
silverado-arab
hope that helps r u lookin 4 show names or what?
Sunday, Emma, Brandy, Winchester, Winston, Ty, Prince, Princess, Sunny, Sunflower, Sundrop, Kisses, Melody, Misty, Clover, Spirit, Elderodo, Skippo, Hershy, Star, Love, Cutie, Snickers, May, Phenne, Scottie, Sugar, Izzy, Tory, Muffin, Storm, Cody, Bo, Chloe, Precious, Rain. Hope these help. :-)
HI I've worked at a riding school with over 200 horses so I'll try to name some I remember jafa,,jack,frankline,tuskany,c... ,beanie,,joy,maple,pepsi,buddy... leroy,cash,cascade,vodka,ice,m... aztec,royal,kakadu,prinsses,ma... he,s an apaloosa),handsome,victoria,sh... more I cant remember right now. And then theres horses my family have owened melody,sheba,hannah(jahanah),,... I think its aboriginal for horse),macpherson(mac),montana... weve had ajisted on our property,jess,fluffy duck(crazy name huh)And people I knows horses,cheeky,dusty,fidjet,lad... hope this helps abit.If i counted corectly there should by a hundred and theres probobly anouther 50 i cant remember sorry
mighty
vicroy
nessie
calee
teddy
mighty
Cassiopeia (Cass-e-o-pee-a)
(Cassie)
It would go nice with your name, too
Cassandra and Cassiopeia
Smoky, Cody, Stix, Kolihl, Star,Twitter, Dido, Derby, Mikey(short for Michael), Flicka, Gypsy, and Ladybug
Both present and past horses:
Tucker- Palomino/QH cross
Cash (Cashmere Dream) - Chestnut QH
JuJu- Sorrel stock-type QH
Tug-Sorrel QH
Charger-QH, classic light bay
Desert Storm (Stormy) - light bay QH
Summer (Summer Breeze) - Chestbut w/flaxen mane and tail, Arabian
Lily (Princess Tiger Lily)-paint coloring, QH
Girlfriend-Chestnut QH
Cowboy (Girlfriend's foal)-Chestnut QH
Other horses I'm close to:
Ziggy-Fleabitten gray Arabian
Sage-Black thoroughbred
Belle-QH chestnut
Hildago-QH, (looks like movie Hildago's horse!)
Seca-black/white paint, QH
Puppet-Morgan, bay
Onyx-Fresian (black of course)
Sunny (Sunny Days)-small pony, palomino
Coke-chestnut QH
Sam-QH bay
Tank-Roan QH
Faith-Sorrel QH
Herm..names are tuff. I am finding that I can't find any names for my horse either. But here are a few I have come across over the years:
Khamsin: A bay arabian mare (cam-seen)
Deshion: A chestnut arabian gelding (like the mustard)
Charlie: An old QH gelding
Gable: An appendix bay gelding
Chance: I know four horses named Chance
Shawn aka Hear No Evil: A deaf thoroughbred
Elliot
Suzie
Cutter
Zorro
Kermit
QT Pie: A white pony
Amy
Billy
Dixie
Birdie
Fabio
Duke
Jack
Dazzle
Star
Ace
Bailey
Riley
Boo
Amedaus
Tribute aka Tribber
River
Harley
DJ
Tate
Snoopy
Summer
Panther
Pride
Duchess
Mirage
Bogo
Pogo
Fiddlesticks
Jess
BELLA
LUCY
MAGGIE
DAISY
SADIE
CHLOE
SOPHIE
BAILEY
ZOE
LOLA
ABBY
GINGER
ROXY
GRACIE
COCO
SASHA
ANGEL
LILY
PRINCESS
EMMA
ROSIE
LADY
ANNIE
RUBY
MISSY
KATIE
MIA
MADISON
CASEY
LILLY
PENNY
BELLE
SAMANTHA
BRANDY
HOLLY
SANDY
JASMINE
STELLA
LEXI
SHELBY
ROXIE
PEPPER
HEIDI
LULU
MISTY
HONEY
MADDIE
SASSY
DIXIE
DAKOTA
PRECIOUS
SYDNEY
LUNA
COOKIE
HANNAH
SHADOW
SUGAR
PHOEBE
NIKKI
AMBER
MAYA
CASSIE
RILEY
MOCHA
CHELSEA
BABY
NALA
PEBBLES
ELLIE
MANDY
JESSIE
CLEO
TRIXIE
SIERRA
LUCKY
HARLEY
COCOA
ISABELLA
MILLIE
CALLIE
MINNIE
PEANUT
ABBEY
SHEBA
BONNIE
GIGI
SCOUT
LIBBY
LACEY
TASHA
PIPER
SOPHIA
MUFFIN
CALI
MORGAN
HALEY
LEXIE
XENA
MOLLY
Mine is Fanci Gal
other horses I ride: Laddy (TB)
King (QH)
Sonora (Arab)
Obsession (arab)
Fire (arab)
Moon Shadow (arab)
Whispering Nile (arab)
Diego (arab)
Dancer (panit)
Jewel (TW)
Dixie (TW)
Cleopatra (TW/Shire)
Samson (Shire)
Draco (Friesian/QH)
Cover Gril (solid paint)
Velvet (arab)
Solomon (shire/arab)
El Taurs King (QH)
Pohana (arab)
Willie (Appy)
Cookie (arab)
Cherokee (arab/QH)
We have 36 horses in the barn right now, so it would take a while to list them all, but my favorite one is my morgan Christopher Robyn. We pick names for a lot of our horses by using a baby names book, you can find them anywhere at a book store. I have a copy of "the orginal book of baby names" and it musdt be 50 years old, but it lists some cool names and tells you the history of where they originated. or you could form a name for your horse based on his/her parents names. ie i know a mini mare named polly pocket, and the owners named their stallion pocket rocket (i know it is a bit rude but they think its funny) and once polly delivered colt they named him theres a rocket in my pocket). You'll figure it out though. good luck.
King's Royal Fiddler - "Fiddler"
Skippa Shoestring - "Shoestring"
Smarty
Sissy
Peety
Booger
Guiness
Ray's Who Done It - "Who"
Goosie
Deluxe - "DD"
Alpie
Riddler
Sister
Parsnips
Earls Little Sister Sally - "Sally"
Big Earl - "Earl"
Copper Tiger - "Tiger"
Jovial - "Joe"
Lilly
Moroccan Pasta - "Pasta"
Spring Clearance - "Price"
In The Dark - "Blackie"
After Dark - "Annie"
Classy Cameo Liz - "Lizzy"
Rusty
California Dream'n - "Cal"
Queen of Heats - "Sissy"
Serendipity - "Sarah"
Double Stuffed Oreo - "Oreo"
Regency Park - "Regent"
ReEnlist - "ReUp"
Prospector's Dancer - "Dancer"
Bottoms Up - "Boo"
All that Jazz - "Jazzy"
Paint by Numbers - "P"
Tea Party
Calendar Girl - "Dixie"
Dixie's Flying Flag - "Flag"
"Miller Time" - Miller
"Tap the Rockies" - Coors
"Old # 7" - "Jack"
"7 and 7" - "seven"
ZH Shara Jean---call her "Jeanie"
Chancellor III-- call him "Chandler"
LV's Titanic-- call her "Ty"
American Ice-- call him "Ryder"
Dana's Dawn-- call him "Romeo"
Double T Prelude-- call her "Star"
Tangiers Light-- call him "TJ"
Classy Lady-- call her "Lass"
Unregistered Horses:
Roho
Morning Star
Max
Mazey
Sophie
Sable
Queenie
Red Cloud
My Horse:
"Red Hot Rodder" (Murphy) chesnut QH gelding
My Trainer's Horses:
"Hell On Wheels" (Helen) grey Arab mare
"Country Sue" (Suzie) grey Arab mare
"F.L.A Brummel" (B) bey Arab stallion
"Snap, Crackle, n' Fizz" (Snappie) grey Mini stallion
"Red Wally" (Wally) chesnut Arab gelding
"Cool n' Charismatic" (C.J) tobiano Paint gelding
"Special Edition" (Special) sorrel Arab gelding
"Habibi" chesnut Arab gelding
"Allie" grey Arab mare
"Brady" dapple-grey Arab geldin
"Ellis" black Arab gelding
"Rico" bey Arab gelding
"Regus" bey arab gelding
"Sadie" bey Arab mare
Answers:
Here are just some names for horses. I haven't owned any, just rode some.
Thunder, Fleetfoot, Jet, Shadow, Firefly, Minx, Lady, Buttercream, Tipsy, Sierra, Cassanova
My horses were called Pepper and Jenny.
In "Little House On The Prairie" Laura Ingalls had a horse she called "Bunny" because of its long ears.
There's...
Blue - The young blue roan
Focker- The big, mean roping paint gelding
Lloyd - The big, old ropign sorrel gelding
Clyde - The young, bay racing gelding
Fred - The young, hyper, racing, sorrel gelding
Chevy(Piggy) - The Young, racing, chestnut mare
Nijara - The middle aged brood mare
Beauty - A medicine hat paint
Sorrel - a racing sorrel mare
Bud - The sorrel stud
Cash - Out state champion roping stallion
Hope those give you ideas!
Nikita, Chief, Nebraska, J.R., Thunder, Lightening, Diamond, Pepper, Jerry, Ace, Pete, Rosey, Strawberry, Duke, Morgan, Ghost, Midnight, Lady, Fiddley-dee, Champ, Smokey, Shrek, Blue, Spike, Dusty, Polly, Buck, Prince, Copper, Saba, (i've had a lot of horses) hope this helps
Windwalker, Her nickname was Windy
how about princess of charms *aka* charms
or - Dream of heart works *aka* dream
or- Moonlight Minute *aka* minnie
or-Pedals of the night *aka* pedals
i hope i helped good luck =)
Well, right now I have Stonewall Stella and Stonewall Blanche and their fillies Gwyn (short for Gwynevier, the farm we bought used to be an exotic animal rescue and they had camels. Gwyn was born in a camel lot, har har) and Nyx, because she came out black as night! But now both are shedding out to show their Appaloosa heritage. Here's pics,
www.blackroot.org/farm
We have also had Princes Jim (Jim), Bright Joker Eyes (Bright), Gypsy, Early (he was a premie,) Sweetheart, Chico, Rocket, Jean, L.A. Colt 45 (Colt,) Maranatha, Joy, Co-Suede (grandson of Colida,) Fuzzy, Equipoise, Steel, Wapiti, Cream (she was a few spot and all white, like fresh cream,) Blue, and heck, many more. Mostly broodmares, only 5 stallions over the years.
Horses I have ridden Flako, Marcus, Aaron,Cagney,Gyspey,Toto,Jordo... Warrie, Robbie,Chester
Other names that may be of interest to you
Aussie,Barney,Billy Boy,Carlos,Frankie,Frinton,Jet... Ross,Shug, Sparkii,Taco, Tosca,Wally,Betsy,BettyBoo,Bla... Hannah,Midnight,Ophelia,Sheena... Bounce,Andy,Butter,Chucky,Earl... Lilly,Todd,Twinkle
Poncho, Matilda, Zaney, Classic, Caroline, Santee, Treasure, Clyde, Freedom, Lucky, Gypsy, Gretta, Dancer, Ty, Honey, Cash, Prince, Cowboy, Daisy, Penny, Danni, Firefly, Chole, Gabby, Jaybez, Josa, Clue, Midnight, Fire, Amber, Dottie, Lightning.the 1st 4 horses are mine.the 23 after that at Heritage Hall Stables horses.the last 5 are some of Black Bottom Stables horses
lilly-welsh mountain pony
bobby-trotter/thougherbread paleface's son!
ace-quaterhorse
mandy-ASH
whispering jack-ASH
silverado-arab
hope that helps r u lookin 4 show names or what?
Sunday, Emma, Brandy, Winchester, Winston, Ty, Prince, Princess, Sunny, Sunflower, Sundrop, Kisses, Melody, Misty, Clover, Spirit, Elderodo, Skippo, Hershy, Star, Love, Cutie, Snickers, May, Phenne, Scottie, Sugar, Izzy, Tory, Muffin, Storm, Cody, Bo, Chloe, Precious, Rain. Hope these help. :-)
HI I've worked at a riding school with over 200 horses so I'll try to name some I remember jafa,,jack,frankline,tuskany,c... ,beanie,,joy,maple,pepsi,buddy... leroy,cash,cascade,vodka,ice,m... aztec,royal,kakadu,prinsses,ma... he,s an apaloosa),handsome,victoria,sh... more I cant remember right now. And then theres horses my family have owened melody,sheba,hannah(jahanah),,... I think its aboriginal for horse),macpherson(mac),montana... weve had ajisted on our property,jess,fluffy duck(crazy name huh)And people I knows horses,cheeky,dusty,fidjet,lad... hope this helps abit.If i counted corectly there should by a hundred and theres probobly anouther 50 i cant remember sorry
mighty
vicroy
nessie
calee
teddy
mighty
Cassiopeia (Cass-e-o-pee-a)
(Cassie)
It would go nice with your name, too
Cassandra and Cassiopeia
Smoky, Cody, Stix, Kolihl, Star,Twitter, Dido, Derby, Mikey(short for Michael), Flicka, Gypsy, and Ladybug
Both present and past horses:
Tucker- Palomino/QH cross
Cash (Cashmere Dream) - Chestnut QH
JuJu- Sorrel stock-type QH
Tug-Sorrel QH
Charger-QH, classic light bay
Desert Storm (Stormy) - light bay QH
Summer (Summer Breeze) - Chestbut w/flaxen mane and tail, Arabian
Lily (Princess Tiger Lily)-paint coloring, QH
Girlfriend-Chestnut QH
Cowboy (Girlfriend's foal)-Chestnut QH
Other horses I'm close to:
Ziggy-Fleabitten gray Arabian
Sage-Black thoroughbred
Belle-QH chestnut
Hildago-QH, (looks like movie Hildago's horse!)
Seca-black/white paint, QH
Puppet-Morgan, bay
Onyx-Fresian (black of course)
Sunny (Sunny Days)-small pony, palomino
Coke-chestnut QH
Sam-QH bay
Tank-Roan QH
Faith-Sorrel QH
Herm..names are tuff. I am finding that I can't find any names for my horse either. But here are a few I have come across over the years:
Khamsin: A bay arabian mare (cam-seen)
Deshion: A chestnut arabian gelding (like the mustard)
Charlie: An old QH gelding
Gable: An appendix bay gelding
Chance: I know four horses named Chance
Shawn aka Hear No Evil: A deaf thoroughbred
Elliot
Suzie
Cutter
Zorro
Kermit
QT Pie: A white pony
Amy
Billy
Dixie
Birdie
Fabio
Duke
Jack
Dazzle
Star
Ace
Bailey
Riley
Boo
Amedaus
Tribute aka Tribber
River
Harley
DJ
Tate
Snoopy
Summer
Panther
Pride
Duchess
Mirage
Bogo
Pogo
Fiddlesticks
Jess
BELLA
LUCY
MAGGIE
DAISY
SADIE
CHLOE
SOPHIE
BAILEY
ZOE
LOLA
ABBY
GINGER
ROXY
GRACIE
COCO
SASHA
ANGEL
LILY
PRINCESS
EMMA
ROSIE
LADY
ANNIE
RUBY
MISSY
KATIE
MIA
MADISON
CASEY
LILLY
PENNY
BELLE
SAMANTHA
BRANDY
HOLLY
SANDY
JASMINE
STELLA
LEXI
SHELBY
ROXIE
PEPPER
HEIDI
LULU
MISTY
HONEY
MADDIE
SASSY
DIXIE
DAKOTA
PRECIOUS
SYDNEY
LUNA
COOKIE
HANNAH
SHADOW
SUGAR
PHOEBE
NIKKI
AMBER
MAYA
CASSIE
RILEY
MOCHA
CHELSEA
BABY
NALA
PEBBLES
ELLIE
MANDY
JESSIE
CLEO
TRIXIE
SIERRA
LUCKY
HARLEY
COCOA
ISABELLA
MILLIE
CALLIE
MINNIE
PEANUT
ABBEY
SHEBA
BONNIE
GIGI
SCOUT
LIBBY
LACEY
TASHA
PIPER
SOPHIA
MUFFIN
CALI
MORGAN
HALEY
LEXIE
XENA
MOLLY
Mine is Fanci Gal
other horses I ride: Laddy (TB)
King (QH)
Sonora (Arab)
Obsession (arab)
Fire (arab)
Moon Shadow (arab)
Whispering Nile (arab)
Diego (arab)
Dancer (panit)
Jewel (TW)
Dixie (TW)
Cleopatra (TW/Shire)
Samson (Shire)
Draco (Friesian/QH)
Cover Gril (solid paint)
Velvet (arab)
Solomon (shire/arab)
El Taurs King (QH)
Pohana (arab)
Willie (Appy)
Cookie (arab)
Cherokee (arab/QH)
We have 36 horses in the barn right now, so it would take a while to list them all, but my favorite one is my morgan Christopher Robyn. We pick names for a lot of our horses by using a baby names book, you can find them anywhere at a book store. I have a copy of "the orginal book of baby names" and it musdt be 50 years old, but it lists some cool names and tells you the history of where they originated. or you could form a name for your horse based on his/her parents names. ie i know a mini mare named polly pocket, and the owners named their stallion pocket rocket (i know it is a bit rude but they think its funny) and once polly delivered colt they named him theres a rocket in my pocket). You'll figure it out though. good luck.
King's Royal Fiddler - "Fiddler"
Skippa Shoestring - "Shoestring"
Smarty
Sissy
Peety
Booger
Guiness
Ray's Who Done It - "Who"
Goosie
Deluxe - "DD"
Alpie
Riddler
Sister
Parsnips
Earls Little Sister Sally - "Sally"
Big Earl - "Earl"
Copper Tiger - "Tiger"
Jovial - "Joe"
Lilly
Moroccan Pasta - "Pasta"
Spring Clearance - "Price"
In The Dark - "Blackie"
After Dark - "Annie"
Classy Cameo Liz - "Lizzy"
Rusty
California Dream'n - "Cal"
Queen of Heats - "Sissy"
Serendipity - "Sarah"
Double Stuffed Oreo - "Oreo"
Regency Park - "Regent"
ReEnlist - "ReUp"
Prospector's Dancer - "Dancer"
Bottoms Up - "Boo"
All that Jazz - "Jazzy"
Paint by Numbers - "P"
Tea Party
Calendar Girl - "Dixie"
Dixie's Flying Flag - "Flag"
"Miller Time" - Miller
"Tap the Rockies" - Coors
"Old # 7" - "Jack"
"7 and 7" - "seven"
ZH Shara Jean---call her "Jeanie"
Chancellor III-- call him "Chandler"
LV's Titanic-- call her "Ty"
American Ice-- call him "Ryder"
Dana's Dawn-- call him "Romeo"
Double T Prelude-- call her "Star"
Tangiers Light-- call him "TJ"
Classy Lady-- call her "Lass"
Unregistered Horses:
Roho
Morning Star
Max
Mazey
Sophie
Sable
Queenie
Red Cloud
My Horse:
"Red Hot Rodder" (Murphy) chesnut QH gelding
My Trainer's Horses:
"Hell On Wheels" (Helen) grey Arab mare
"Country Sue" (Suzie) grey Arab mare
"F.L.A Brummel" (B) bey Arab stallion
"Snap, Crackle, n' Fizz" (Snappie) grey Mini stallion
"Red Wally" (Wally) chesnut Arab gelding
"Cool n' Charismatic" (C.J) tobiano Paint gelding
"Special Edition" (Special) sorrel Arab gelding
"Habibi" chesnut Arab gelding
"Allie" grey Arab mare
"Brady" dapple-grey Arab geldin
"Ellis" black Arab gelding
"Rico" bey Arab gelding
"Regus" bey arab gelding
"Sadie" bey Arab mare
Another Horse?
I want another horse desperatly. We have two, one of them is mine and one is my moms. Mine is a blood bay mustang gelding. He is a wonderful horse. but hes getting too small for me and one day i would like to teach my nephews to ride him. I wont sell him ever. My moms is a morab gelding. He is fun to ride but hes not completely broke and i want a dead broke horse with spirit.
I asked my mom and she said no. Becuase She didnt know if we could afford one and time wise we would have to spend alot of time at the barn. I want to show her i should be able to have another horse, but i also want to try and convince my trainer to let me come out by walking or on my bike. Any ideas? Thanks guys. I was looking at a few horses and here they are:
http://www.equinehits.com/horses-for-sal...
http://www.equinehits.com/horses-for-sal...
http://www.equinehits.com/horses-for-sal...
http://www.equinehits.com/horses-for-sal...
Answers:
Well if you cant afford it, you should sell one of the ones you have and put money towwards a new one. Or train the morab.
I would go with the Morgan mare. Because they are normally wonderful horses! My mother has bred Morgan horses for over 35 yrs %26 they are good horses! Me %26 my 4 sisters %26 2 brothers learned on Morgans. They make good lesson horses!! They have a good tempers. Just my opinon.
you picked out some cuties, When u'r mom said cant afford it she probably meant the monthly expense, its not cheep. Maybe u can talk to your trainer about working some of it off, or get a part time job, IE: babysitting , to help mom with the expenses.
This way u are showing her your willing to take on more of the responsibilities and ready for another horse.
Good Luck i hope u get it.
I'm like you - I absolutely HATE having to ever sell one of my horses. In a perfect world you will find a way to help your mom decide that a third horse would be good for your family. I would think that if you saved up some money it would be a good start, and if you found a part time job you could help provide for your new horse's expenses.
BUT - that doesn't solve all your problems. If you wonderful other horse is just too small for you, and you buy another horse and don't ride him anymore, that isn't perfect either! Good kid's horses are hard to find, and in some ways its selfish to keep a wonderful horse and have no one use him, when another kid out there would love him and pour tons of attention on him.
And your first horse will be bored and lonely if you are busy all the time with the new horse. He will get out of shape and get chubby, unless you are very careful. He will get bored. In many ways, it isn't fair for a horse to be kept and not rode, because everyone needs a purpose in life! Unless of course he's so old that he needs to be retired, but if he's a young horse it probably isn't a huge kindness to keep him if you need another horse for yourself.
So I guess I'm suggesting that you consider selling your first horse when you buy a second one. Of course the choice will be up to you, and I'm sure you will always care for him. But there is still the fact that horses cost alot of money to maintain. He'll need good feed, hoof trims, vet bills, shots and worming. Can you afford a second horse if you keep the first?
I can say these things because I have to sell a horse if I buy another one. Every time I sell one of my old horses, I have a good cry and my heart is broken. But I am VERY careful who buys my horses, I ask millions of questions and find them wonderful homes. And then they have somone new to love and care for them, just as I have a new horse that used to belong to someone else that misses them.
That's how things go in my horse life, because I'm not rich. If I want to buy a new one, I have to sell one of the old ones.
Good luck on your tough decisions. I hope it works out for the best for you and your horse(s).
Okay, please do not take this critically, this is meant to be a positive observation..
Just a few days ago you threw a question out, asking if you should sell your horse to get another, "because he was to much horse for you", "under saddle", and "dragging you to the grass, etc." Now, he is "too small"? But you sill can't handle him? Each one of these horses you looked at, had the owner specify that they didn't think they would be a beginners horse because they "get up and go". And yes, sweet heart you sound like a beginner that wants to fill shoes that you are not ready to fill, and unfortunately you are going to get yourself hurt.
If you can not handle the horses you and your mom have, then what makes you think another would be any different? Unless of course, you get one bomb proof and dead broke.
This is why you have trainer to help you. I think your best bet (money and time wise) is just that! Talk to your trainer, and get assistance for you and the horses you already have. If your trainer can not help you with the ones you have, then simply find another trainer. Why not work with the ones that you already have a bond with, rather than start over?
I wish the best for you in your difficult descisions!
Also, about the ride your bike or walk to the barn question.If it isn't to far, thats a great idea, maybe you can have your mom and your trainer discuss it. If it is far, then is there any way you can get a ride from other boarders or students. Just an idea. Good Luck!
*********EDIT 07-03-07********
Little miss xxhorse.riderxx, if you are going to verbally attack me for giving you a suggestion (that you asked for), at least have the guts to do it out here in the open, and not in my email. Also, before you respond so imaturlly, you might want to read the whole answer thoroughly, other wise it makes you look very stupid.
If you don't like the answers, then don't ask the question!
Also, FYI- profanity is not exceptable behavior.not in this forum and not through this forum into my email!
Unless you are able to pay for the care and upkeep of another horse, your mom gets the final say. End of story.
Why is your horse getting too small? Unless you are exceptionally tall or heavy, a mustang will have no problem carrying you. When I was riding in Ireland, one of the trail leaders rode a Connemara pony that was just barely 14 hands and he had no problem at all carring a grown woman and keeping up (and ahead) of bigger horses. And mustangs are very tough, hardly horses. If you are a normal sized young woman, he will have no difficulty carrying you. Your mom is riding a morab which is not a tall horse either. Is it his size that is an issue, or are the horses you are looking at a bit fancier/flashier than yours? Be honest about why you want to get a new horse.
But if you really have your heart set on another horse and you mom doesn't want/can't pay for the care of more than two, then you have to make the choice about keeping this gelding that you say you don't ever want to sell, or selling him in order to buy another horse. It doesn't seem like you can have it both ways.
Both Paintgrl and Raise It were right on the money. Read their posts carefully, take their advice.
Why doesn't your trainer let you come out on your bike or walking? Or is it that you need to have your mom with you? If that is the case, the reason is they don't want to be responsible for you. The only possible way to change this is to show how adult you can be at the barn. Don't leave stuff lying around. If you see stuff lying around that isn't yours, pick it up. If you see something that needs to be done (manure pile left in the aisle way, water bucket needs filling) do it. If there is a lesson going on, be quiet and respectful of it. Do NOT get involved with any horse you don't have permission to.
If you show you can be a responsible young lady and a benefit to have around the barn, you will be invited to come out more often.
First off you cant have a dead broke horse and a spirit they dont ahve any spirit , when they are dead broke however you can get a well broke horse who may still have some spirit. Good luck
they are all pretty but i think you should get a gaited horse such as a missouri fox trotter if anyone has even ridden a horse that is gaited they should understand wheni say they are the best!!
Heres a website that has horses for sale the are in southern mn
http://www.rushriverfoxtrotters.com/...
Lease out your current horse, that way you can keep him and keep an eye on him, get finacial securety and make sure hes treated up to your standards and that you liek the person leasing him.
I asked my mom and she said no. Becuase She didnt know if we could afford one and time wise we would have to spend alot of time at the barn. I want to show her i should be able to have another horse, but i also want to try and convince my trainer to let me come out by walking or on my bike. Any ideas? Thanks guys. I was looking at a few horses and here they are:
http://www.equinehits.com/horses-for-sal...
http://www.equinehits.com/horses-for-sal...
http://www.equinehits.com/horses-for-sal...
http://www.equinehits.com/horses-for-sal...
Answers:
Well if you cant afford it, you should sell one of the ones you have and put money towwards a new one. Or train the morab.
I would go with the Morgan mare. Because they are normally wonderful horses! My mother has bred Morgan horses for over 35 yrs %26 they are good horses! Me %26 my 4 sisters %26 2 brothers learned on Morgans. They make good lesson horses!! They have a good tempers. Just my opinon.
you picked out some cuties, When u'r mom said cant afford it she probably meant the monthly expense, its not cheep. Maybe u can talk to your trainer about working some of it off, or get a part time job, IE: babysitting , to help mom with the expenses.
This way u are showing her your willing to take on more of the responsibilities and ready for another horse.
Good Luck i hope u get it.
I'm like you - I absolutely HATE having to ever sell one of my horses. In a perfect world you will find a way to help your mom decide that a third horse would be good for your family. I would think that if you saved up some money it would be a good start, and if you found a part time job you could help provide for your new horse's expenses.
BUT - that doesn't solve all your problems. If you wonderful other horse is just too small for you, and you buy another horse and don't ride him anymore, that isn't perfect either! Good kid's horses are hard to find, and in some ways its selfish to keep a wonderful horse and have no one use him, when another kid out there would love him and pour tons of attention on him.
And your first horse will be bored and lonely if you are busy all the time with the new horse. He will get out of shape and get chubby, unless you are very careful. He will get bored. In many ways, it isn't fair for a horse to be kept and not rode, because everyone needs a purpose in life! Unless of course he's so old that he needs to be retired, but if he's a young horse it probably isn't a huge kindness to keep him if you need another horse for yourself.
So I guess I'm suggesting that you consider selling your first horse when you buy a second one. Of course the choice will be up to you, and I'm sure you will always care for him. But there is still the fact that horses cost alot of money to maintain. He'll need good feed, hoof trims, vet bills, shots and worming. Can you afford a second horse if you keep the first?
I can say these things because I have to sell a horse if I buy another one. Every time I sell one of my old horses, I have a good cry and my heart is broken. But I am VERY careful who buys my horses, I ask millions of questions and find them wonderful homes. And then they have somone new to love and care for them, just as I have a new horse that used to belong to someone else that misses them.
That's how things go in my horse life, because I'm not rich. If I want to buy a new one, I have to sell one of the old ones.
Good luck on your tough decisions. I hope it works out for the best for you and your horse(s).
Okay, please do not take this critically, this is meant to be a positive observation..
Just a few days ago you threw a question out, asking if you should sell your horse to get another, "because he was to much horse for you", "under saddle", and "dragging you to the grass, etc." Now, he is "too small"? But you sill can't handle him? Each one of these horses you looked at, had the owner specify that they didn't think they would be a beginners horse because they "get up and go". And yes, sweet heart you sound like a beginner that wants to fill shoes that you are not ready to fill, and unfortunately you are going to get yourself hurt.
If you can not handle the horses you and your mom have, then what makes you think another would be any different? Unless of course, you get one bomb proof and dead broke.
This is why you have trainer to help you. I think your best bet (money and time wise) is just that! Talk to your trainer, and get assistance for you and the horses you already have. If your trainer can not help you with the ones you have, then simply find another trainer. Why not work with the ones that you already have a bond with, rather than start over?
I wish the best for you in your difficult descisions!
Also, about the ride your bike or walk to the barn question.If it isn't to far, thats a great idea, maybe you can have your mom and your trainer discuss it. If it is far, then is there any way you can get a ride from other boarders or students. Just an idea. Good Luck!
*********EDIT 07-03-07********
Little miss xxhorse.riderxx, if you are going to verbally attack me for giving you a suggestion (that you asked for), at least have the guts to do it out here in the open, and not in my email. Also, before you respond so imaturlly, you might want to read the whole answer thoroughly, other wise it makes you look very stupid.
If you don't like the answers, then don't ask the question!
Also, FYI- profanity is not exceptable behavior.not in this forum and not through this forum into my email!
Unless you are able to pay for the care and upkeep of another horse, your mom gets the final say. End of story.
Why is your horse getting too small? Unless you are exceptionally tall or heavy, a mustang will have no problem carrying you. When I was riding in Ireland, one of the trail leaders rode a Connemara pony that was just barely 14 hands and he had no problem at all carring a grown woman and keeping up (and ahead) of bigger horses. And mustangs are very tough, hardly horses. If you are a normal sized young woman, he will have no difficulty carrying you. Your mom is riding a morab which is not a tall horse either. Is it his size that is an issue, or are the horses you are looking at a bit fancier/flashier than yours? Be honest about why you want to get a new horse.
But if you really have your heart set on another horse and you mom doesn't want/can't pay for the care of more than two, then you have to make the choice about keeping this gelding that you say you don't ever want to sell, or selling him in order to buy another horse. It doesn't seem like you can have it both ways.
Both Paintgrl and Raise It were right on the money. Read their posts carefully, take their advice.
Why doesn't your trainer let you come out on your bike or walking? Or is it that you need to have your mom with you? If that is the case, the reason is they don't want to be responsible for you. The only possible way to change this is to show how adult you can be at the barn. Don't leave stuff lying around. If you see stuff lying around that isn't yours, pick it up. If you see something that needs to be done (manure pile left in the aisle way, water bucket needs filling) do it. If there is a lesson going on, be quiet and respectful of it. Do NOT get involved with any horse you don't have permission to.
If you show you can be a responsible young lady and a benefit to have around the barn, you will be invited to come out more often.
First off you cant have a dead broke horse and a spirit they dont ahve any spirit , when they are dead broke however you can get a well broke horse who may still have some spirit. Good luck
they are all pretty but i think you should get a gaited horse such as a missouri fox trotter if anyone has even ridden a horse that is gaited they should understand wheni say they are the best!!
Heres a website that has horses for sale the are in southern mn
http://www.rushriverfoxtrotters.com/...
Lease out your current horse, that way you can keep him and keep an eye on him, get finacial securety and make sure hes treated up to your standards and that you liek the person leasing him.
Another bit of advice needed for my boy!!?
I know I have already asked loads of questions about my baby but I like to have others opinions and well he is a special boy!! He also has a cleft pallet and although I know the basics about it and how it affects the horse im not really that knowledgeable about it and would like to know and understand more about it!! I have never come across anyone who has a horse with a cleft pallet or even anyone who knows a horse with one! Seems very rare?? Apparently they normally die as babies?? Does anyone know anymore about it?? Would be good to hear other peoples experience of i!!
Answers:
OK, I give this a shot. The hard and soft palates are what separate the nasal and oral cavity. as on people it the roof of the mouth. If this does not form correctly there may be a "Cleft" in the roof of the mouth. Usually toward the back of the palate there will be an opening. So, basically the nose (Nostrils) have a direct opening to the throat. Foals can become choked when trying to nurse and milk can come out their nose when the head is down. Sort of like a person drinking milk and we make them laugh and milk comes out their nose, only with the Cleft it comes through the abnormal opening. Sometimes this can be fixed with surgery especially if the hole is small and is in the soft palate area.
This the best I can explain. I not a Vet, but, when you have 5 horses you have to act like you are. :-p
PetSmart.com - Shop for all of your pet supplies for dogs, cats, birds, fish, reptiles or small pets. Get answers %26 expert advice for the care of your pet.and good luke
Ive also never come across a horse with a cleft pallet so cant really answer your question - but would recommend you search this under the likes of google - they usually have pages of information on things like this !
xx
Phone the vet! It might not be fatal, but it is possible. It can cause pneumonia and and it might breathe in things that it drinks and eats, filling up the lungs. As i said before, if you haven't already, phone the vet now! A number of lung diseases can result. Surgical correction of the palate is an option and will result in a few weeks of anti biotics, but it's worth it as the cleft palate could become infected.
Good Luck : )
Whenever I am faced with a difficult question I research the Equine Teaching University that has a specialist in the area of my interest. Then I call. Most times I have no problem getting much needed advice over the phone from very informative veterinarians. I have in fact gone to several Universities with my horses and dogs in the past where I have received the best of care and recommendations.
you can go to wikipedia.org and they will tell you everything you need to know.
What about bitless! By the sounds of it he shouldn't have a bit in his mouth.
Answers:
OK, I give this a shot. The hard and soft palates are what separate the nasal and oral cavity. as on people it the roof of the mouth. If this does not form correctly there may be a "Cleft" in the roof of the mouth. Usually toward the back of the palate there will be an opening. So, basically the nose (Nostrils) have a direct opening to the throat. Foals can become choked when trying to nurse and milk can come out their nose when the head is down. Sort of like a person drinking milk and we make them laugh and milk comes out their nose, only with the Cleft it comes through the abnormal opening. Sometimes this can be fixed with surgery especially if the hole is small and is in the soft palate area.
This the best I can explain. I not a Vet, but, when you have 5 horses you have to act like you are. :-p
PetSmart.com - Shop for all of your pet supplies for dogs, cats, birds, fish, reptiles or small pets. Get answers %26 expert advice for the care of your pet.and good luke
Ive also never come across a horse with a cleft pallet so cant really answer your question - but would recommend you search this under the likes of google - they usually have pages of information on things like this !
xx
Phone the vet! It might not be fatal, but it is possible. It can cause pneumonia and and it might breathe in things that it drinks and eats, filling up the lungs. As i said before, if you haven't already, phone the vet now! A number of lung diseases can result. Surgical correction of the palate is an option and will result in a few weeks of anti biotics, but it's worth it as the cleft palate could become infected.
Good Luck : )
Whenever I am faced with a difficult question I research the Equine Teaching University that has a specialist in the area of my interest. Then I call. Most times I have no problem getting much needed advice over the phone from very informative veterinarians. I have in fact gone to several Universities with my horses and dogs in the past where I have received the best of care and recommendations.
you can go to wikipedia.org and they will tell you everything you need to know.
What about bitless! By the sounds of it he shouldn't have a bit in his mouth.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)