I own three horses. Two of them live right next to each other. They get the same exact diet. However, the mare attracts more flies than the gelding. The mare is a 9 year old tb. and the gelding is a 7yo qh. Their stalls are kept the same way and there is no difference in the footing. I treat them both with fly spray and the mare wears a sheet and mask but I just wanted to know if anyone had any ideas as to why this is happening.
Answers:
I know this sounds stupid but what color are they? There are differences in flies on horses compared to coat color. I am willing to bet that the mare is chestnut or bay or a light brownish coat. Brown and black horses often have more flies on them than other colors (including bots). Greys and whites have the least number. I have had over 300 horses that I have cared for and this is rarely found untrue.
Mares often urinate more than geldings too, so that could be part of the problem. And, if she is in heat she will often attract more flies.
Pheremones.
You didn't say what color they were, but I know that my white or lighter color horses attracts more fly then the darker ones. Also it maybe that the TB mare has thinner skin making her a tastier meal. Maybe it has to do with the amount of light in her stall? whats is on the other side of her is it a dirty stall that belongs to someone else,feed room hope these ideals help
Horses, like people, have different attractiveness to insects.
Some reasons your mare could attract more flies:
- what color is she? It seems that red tones and darker horses attract a lot more flies than paints or lighter-colored horses. The theory behind this is that a paint's color pattern 'breaks up' the body outline that may serve to show flies where the horse is, and where to land. I worked at a ranch where we had over 100 horses-- the paints and blanket appaloosas suffered far less from flies than the solid-colored horses. Lighter-colored horses had more flies than the paints, but still less than the darker horses. Flies landed on the darker legs of horses more than those legs with white socks or stockings. Even today, my sorrel gelding has 3 times the flies on him as my paint mare on any given day.
- if she's in heat, she will attract more flies
- perhaps she is less active than the gelding
Ok sounds weird it mostly matters on what color they are. Then you can know what might be the problem.
It is more than likely Pheremones. Also, mares do urinate quite a bit more than geldings; so that may have something to do with it. Giving a horse a few cloves of garlic is a perfectly safe and effective way of reducing the fly attraction. I have used this method before many times and had great results.
Yeah, The Hitman is wondering what the "third" horse is up to? ... and whaat color are these stinking flies? Enquiring minds want to know? Kapeesh?
Well seems like everyone here has hit the nail on the head with their answer.. color, pheromones, how much sunlight (thus warmth ) is in her stall are all part of it. Plus thoroughbreds are thin skinned and nature is amazing perhaps the flies realize it's an easier to obtain meal. If would be interesting to see who would attract the most flies when kept in the same conditions and are the same sex a hotblooded thoroughbred, a warmblood or a coldblooded horse. Might be a good science experiment for some 4H kids.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Any team penners or ropers out there?
umm i do both do u?? there so much fun i have a arena and cattle im gettin good.. im so xcited..
Answers:
Team penning =fun
Team shorting= A HOOT
the diffrents between the 2 is in team shorting there are only 10 head of cattle in the arena numbered from 0-9 Team penning is 30 head of cattle
2 diffrent assco that are well known TPA was the frist and since has folded and USTPA
I have a mare for sale that has won money in both assco
Why would you rope a poor cow? What did they ever do to you? Do you have any idea how stressful it is to be choked every week?! It's called animal cruelty and it's wrong!
Yep. Helena Team Penning Association. We do sorting and penning. It's a fun way to keep the horse ridden during the winter.
Last year my team won 2006 Team Penning Championships. We completed against 45 teams in the final. In our heat there was 80 teams and there was 3 heats. It was awesome. I love my horses so much, I put in the time with them and they love it. I compete in rodeos (barrel racing) and I do a little bit of roping as well. Its awesome
yup sure do love to do them botha s much as possible just started team sorting a few months ago its pretty fun
Team roper here. We usually rope around the horns and not the neck btw Cassie. Roping steers cost to much to injure that way.
Answers:
Team penning =fun
Team shorting= A HOOT
the diffrents between the 2 is in team shorting there are only 10 head of cattle in the arena numbered from 0-9 Team penning is 30 head of cattle
2 diffrent assco that are well known TPA was the frist and since has folded and USTPA
I have a mare for sale that has won money in both assco
Why would you rope a poor cow? What did they ever do to you? Do you have any idea how stressful it is to be choked every week?! It's called animal cruelty and it's wrong!
Yep. Helena Team Penning Association. We do sorting and penning. It's a fun way to keep the horse ridden during the winter.
Last year my team won 2006 Team Penning Championships. We completed against 45 teams in the final. In our heat there was 80 teams and there was 3 heats. It was awesome. I love my horses so much, I put in the time with them and they love it. I compete in rodeos (barrel racing) and I do a little bit of roping as well. Its awesome
yup sure do love to do them botha s much as possible just started team sorting a few months ago its pretty fun
Team roper here. We usually rope around the horns and not the neck btw Cassie. Roping steers cost to much to injure that way.
Any suggestions?
I bought my first horse about 2 weeks ago. I have been riding about 5-6 years. I have leased 2 horses and I do know what to do, basic wise. I bought him and intend to barrel race, and jump him. Any advice? In general?
Answers:
Barrel racing and jumping are so far on each wing away from each other, only working with the horse on the weekends - you will be hard pressed to train him to do well enough at one job, let alone be sane and normal to transition between the two on your whim.
My advice is to pick a riding style and train him for that for YEARS until it is mastered well enough for what you want, then you can train him to do something else. Horses in training really need to be worked 5 days a week to learn the disclipine inside of a year. Only 1-2 days a week, your training time is going to take longer.
While both jumpers and barrell racing are both speed events, there is a tremendous amount of differences, and levels of precision and control that need to be developed well and slowly over time.
If you cannot commit the needed time to him to train him, he should be sent to a training barn so he can get practice while you lesson on him during the weekends.
Start out slowly working with him. Walk him through the steps first until he gets the hang of what you want him to do. Once he understands what you expect out of him, he will catch on faster. Work with him constantly and stay as consistant as you can. Punish him when he gets stubborn and doesn't do as you please. Some use a whip, some tie them up to a pole...I know, it seems cruel, but it works.
I have been riding for 7 years and if i were you don't just jump and barrle race your horse you are going to end up killing the joins! Dressage is the best thing to practice or show so that you can still do barrle race and jump! I hate dressage but I do it for horse hope you do to!!!!!
You need to read on both %26 see what one you'd like to do. Read!! Teach yourself how to ask your horse what to do. You need to teach yourself how to do these things with your horse the right way!! Good luck %26 have fun!!
You might going to some clinics because depending on what you are planning on using him for to what you need to do.
Take it slow and go at the horse's own pace. Variety is good also.
Answers:
Barrel racing and jumping are so far on each wing away from each other, only working with the horse on the weekends - you will be hard pressed to train him to do well enough at one job, let alone be sane and normal to transition between the two on your whim.
My advice is to pick a riding style and train him for that for YEARS until it is mastered well enough for what you want, then you can train him to do something else. Horses in training really need to be worked 5 days a week to learn the disclipine inside of a year. Only 1-2 days a week, your training time is going to take longer.
While both jumpers and barrell racing are both speed events, there is a tremendous amount of differences, and levels of precision and control that need to be developed well and slowly over time.
If you cannot commit the needed time to him to train him, he should be sent to a training barn so he can get practice while you lesson on him during the weekends.
Start out slowly working with him. Walk him through the steps first until he gets the hang of what you want him to do. Once he understands what you expect out of him, he will catch on faster. Work with him constantly and stay as consistant as you can. Punish him when he gets stubborn and doesn't do as you please. Some use a whip, some tie them up to a pole...I know, it seems cruel, but it works.
I have been riding for 7 years and if i were you don't just jump and barrle race your horse you are going to end up killing the joins! Dressage is the best thing to practice or show so that you can still do barrle race and jump! I hate dressage but I do it for horse hope you do to!!!!!
You need to read on both %26 see what one you'd like to do. Read!! Teach yourself how to ask your horse what to do. You need to teach yourself how to do these things with your horse the right way!! Good luck %26 have fun!!
You might going to some clinics because depending on what you are planning on using him for to what you need to do.
Take it slow and go at the horse's own pace. Variety is good also.
Any suggestions purchasing wide calf riding boots?
It seems that my years of playing soccer, tennis, and dancing have made me into some sort of freak legged beast. In my 21 years on this earth I have never been concerned about my legs until now...
I'm trying to find tall riding boots for my apparently large calfs. I also have a shorter lower leg, so most of the tall boots that fit my calf width are too tall.
I know there are a lot of custom sites that will solve my problem, but they seem to be all located in the UK, and cost a rediculous amount of money. A lot of the semi-custom sites are more cost efficient, but still dont solve my short calved problem.
Right now my paddocks are working just fine, but I really would like to have some tall schooling boots. My regular show size is a 10, and I'm looking for boots that are are 14-16" tall, and calf widths are between 18.5-20 inches.
Answers:
I laughed when I read your post. I too suffer from "wide calves," a term that gives me a gigantism complex... It comes from running 8 miles every morning in college, and my knees are shot to boot! In all seriousness I generally have to go custom. I just tried to order boots from a catalog and I think the people at Victory Canter are getting really annoyed with me by now over some schooling boots and half chaps! I'm about to return my second item to them... My muscles bulge in some places and in others there are extra pockets of room (for spare change obviously, again kidding).
I had some customs made in Argentina (and you can do the transactions over email and paypal I'm sure) and they were half of what my UK customs cost. I would try googling "custom polo boots." Ask if they can also make dress or field boots and explain how the finish will be different. Usually they can do it.
Otherwise order from a catalog and take it to a cobbler or leather smith and have them bring down the crown/tops of the boot, explain you want to keep the integrity of the top line but fit you. They can also add zippers and gussets and things to make them fit better. It will usually run $100-$200 but each cobbler is different, you may be able to find a good deal. You can always ask a cobbler if they can just do it there, non brand name, I find they quote you quite similarly to what ordering from a well known equestrian custom boot company offers.
Here are a few sites that have wide calf boots:
www.equestriancollections.com
www.gotallyho.com
www.nittanyboots.com
Also Devon Aire has an x-tra wide calf boot.
Devon-airs are pretty cheap, I love Airats - measure your calf at hte widest point with your calf flexed - tight (it gets bigger - or like you ride with your heels down) don't measue too tighly though. Then look in your mags and they should have measurements on them. If you can't find them short - you should though, get the tall ones and go to a leather guy and he can shorten them - I have to have mine shortened and stretched a few times - the leather guy can also stretch your calf area as well
i had this problem, i was offered many boots which just didnt go near me. people told me the only way was to get them made to measure...setting me back almost 拢300...no thanks. i bought leather gaiters, to wear with leather short boots. They are english leather and look and feel fantastic. plus they only cost 拢50!they are made by 'The English Company'
Hi,
my best advice is to find a boot maker and pay to have a set made. It can be a bit more expensive that buying a pair and trying to alter them, but will fit and be comfortable.
I find that altered boots rub. I also use 1/2 chaps or full chaps instead of long boots. That way the long boots last longer.
Good luck.
Been there, done that. I'm itty bitty, on top of it, so getting my show boots as anything less then a complete custom job was an ordeal. The key is an educated sales person. They know all of the ins and outs to getting your boots, and usually know some tricks to getting them at a reasonable cost. I went with a pair of Ariats, ordering them in a short length and wide calf. I have always loved Ariats for the classic look, and they wear well. Break in was reasonable, espeically since I did not go for a high end pair of boots. They have a lot of options, so I would recommend taking a look. Also, think about getting your boots in a back zip, especially if you're going to school in them. Much easier to put on and take off, and then they can be a closer fit to your calf. Of, worse case scenario, take a pair of boots that are a bit tight in to have a zipper installed and voila, extra room in the calf!
I'm trying to find tall riding boots for my apparently large calfs. I also have a shorter lower leg, so most of the tall boots that fit my calf width are too tall.
I know there are a lot of custom sites that will solve my problem, but they seem to be all located in the UK, and cost a rediculous amount of money. A lot of the semi-custom sites are more cost efficient, but still dont solve my short calved problem.
Right now my paddocks are working just fine, but I really would like to have some tall schooling boots. My regular show size is a 10, and I'm looking for boots that are are 14-16" tall, and calf widths are between 18.5-20 inches.
Answers:
I laughed when I read your post. I too suffer from "wide calves," a term that gives me a gigantism complex... It comes from running 8 miles every morning in college, and my knees are shot to boot! In all seriousness I generally have to go custom. I just tried to order boots from a catalog and I think the people at Victory Canter are getting really annoyed with me by now over some schooling boots and half chaps! I'm about to return my second item to them... My muscles bulge in some places and in others there are extra pockets of room (for spare change obviously, again kidding).
I had some customs made in Argentina (and you can do the transactions over email and paypal I'm sure) and they were half of what my UK customs cost. I would try googling "custom polo boots." Ask if they can also make dress or field boots and explain how the finish will be different. Usually they can do it.
Otherwise order from a catalog and take it to a cobbler or leather smith and have them bring down the crown/tops of the boot, explain you want to keep the integrity of the top line but fit you. They can also add zippers and gussets and things to make them fit better. It will usually run $100-$200 but each cobbler is different, you may be able to find a good deal. You can always ask a cobbler if they can just do it there, non brand name, I find they quote you quite similarly to what ordering from a well known equestrian custom boot company offers.
Here are a few sites that have wide calf boots:
www.equestriancollections.com
www.gotallyho.com
www.nittanyboots.com
Also Devon Aire has an x-tra wide calf boot.
Devon-airs are pretty cheap, I love Airats - measure your calf at hte widest point with your calf flexed - tight (it gets bigger - or like you ride with your heels down) don't measue too tighly though. Then look in your mags and they should have measurements on them. If you can't find them short - you should though, get the tall ones and go to a leather guy and he can shorten them - I have to have mine shortened and stretched a few times - the leather guy can also stretch your calf area as well
i had this problem, i was offered many boots which just didnt go near me. people told me the only way was to get them made to measure...setting me back almost 拢300...no thanks. i bought leather gaiters, to wear with leather short boots. They are english leather and look and feel fantastic. plus they only cost 拢50!they are made by 'The English Company'
Hi,
my best advice is to find a boot maker and pay to have a set made. It can be a bit more expensive that buying a pair and trying to alter them, but will fit and be comfortable.
I find that altered boots rub. I also use 1/2 chaps or full chaps instead of long boots. That way the long boots last longer.
Good luck.
Been there, done that. I'm itty bitty, on top of it, so getting my show boots as anything less then a complete custom job was an ordeal. The key is an educated sales person. They know all of the ins and outs to getting your boots, and usually know some tricks to getting them at a reasonable cost. I went with a pair of Ariats, ordering them in a short length and wide calf. I have always loved Ariats for the classic look, and they wear well. Break in was reasonable, espeically since I did not go for a high end pair of boots. They have a lot of options, so I would recommend taking a look. Also, think about getting your boots in a back zip, especially if you're going to school in them. Much easier to put on and take off, and then they can be a closer fit to your calf. Of, worse case scenario, take a pair of boots that are a bit tight in to have a zipper installed and voila, extra room in the calf!
Any suggestions for a legal dressage bit?
I own a lovely 15.3 hh thoroughbred mare who I am in the process of training for eventing competitions. I started riding her in a french-link eggbutt snaffle but have now transitioned her into a mullen mouth pelham because she is a very forward and strong horse.
She has been great with the pelham, going on the bit and waiting before jumps instead of running at them. I've been using the pelham (sometimes with the curb rein tied up) for flatwork and she's been doing beautifully.
My trainer has now told me (and I have double checked) that the pelham is illegal for dressage events. I am now looking for a new bit to use in dressage. My trainer had me work her in a buche (b-ring?) bit, but my mare was very tense and heavy in the bridle. I now work her in a mullen mouth loose ring, which she appeared to like and respond too, but she has now taken to throwing her head up and fight my rein contact. She is basically another horse wearing this bit and I'm becoming frustraited with her
Thanks!
Answers:
Aurora
Its just too easy to sit on a mullen mouth! The neck gets strong, the jumps fall. Too easy to get heavy. Its not a great idea to tie the curb rein, then your merely using the pelham as a curb bit with one rein. That gives you strong control but not shape or a softer mouth. List of bits link:
http://www.doversaddlery.com/category.as...
If she is strong on the french link,and passed the first levels, it might be time for a Bradoon and Weymouth combo for dressage ( only). I'd lighten her up off the Mullen with a>> low port dee or a correctional low port dee. %26lt;%26lt; You might really like that one for Cross Country phase.
The bradoon IS the legal option with a weymouth. Its upper level stuff if your ready for it.( can be scored harshley if not). Since you will switch back to a french link for the show jumping last,the weymouth is a good bet.*
Pellhams do not utalize two reins independantly thus are illegal ( cruel and innacurate).
Your competing in three very different events, and correct for the event bits make a huge difference.
I reccomend taking her back to a basic bit like a snaffle, and working out her issues slowly. Get her light and responsive. be patient, it will payoff! If you get her goo and light, you can show her in whatever bit you want! (thats legal) Good luck!
The baucher bit was what I was going to suggest at first, but since you've already tried that I have to think about it more. Pelhams are illegal, as are kimberwickes, or anything with a port or shank unless you're riding in a double bridle.
Have you tried a KK bit? It's a very soft bit but maybe she's throwing her head up because your hands are not soft enough. Make sure you ride her back to front, using leg to activate her hind end and ride her into the bridle. Many riders try and force the head down with their hands to get a frame and the horses respond in the same manner as your mare.
Go back to the snaffle.. It's light on the mouth.
In some organizations, a pelham bit is allowed in upper levels, but only on ponies who lack sufficient space in their mouth for a double bridle.
Try using an adjustable snaffle.
Rubber Jointed Mouth Gag Snaffle.
Rubber Jointed Eggbutt.
Barrel D-Ring.
If the eggbutt works most, try using a variety other than the plain snaffle. (Center down through 2nd link)
You can use a double bridle. If your hands are soft and sensitive enough, double bridles are legal. I don't know how advanced you are in your dressage training but I use a double bridle to really manipulate the horse's engagement and movement. Talk to your trainer about this option and whether your horse is ready. I find it a very good option and it is often espoused by the purist classical riders who are far more talented than I.
In another note, those that are opposed to the pelham, and surely other bits, are often misguided. The pelham has a very apt time and place. Today modernists find the snaffle to be the end-all bit. While the snaffle is appropriate in most cases, I disagree entirely with their universality. These things were invented with good reason and as it stands, the era in which they were created we were far more horse-dependent than in the modern era where they are more luxury than necessity. Furthermore the Victorians believed the pelham to be proverbial "child's play" in contrast to the double so to say its cruel seems a bit harsh. They also found the snaffle to be only appropriate for green horses, green riders and in very few instances fox hunting, but never ever for a finished horse.
By the by, thanks to a previous post with the BC Tack shop Link, what a great selection!
This is going to sound silly, but have you had her teeth floated in a while? Sometimes the heaviness and head throwing come from a hook or something with their teeth. The head throwing is a red flag that you might want to get her teeth checked asap!
If her teeth are not the issue, you might want to try some exercises that make her back off of the bit and wait for you to ask her to surge forward. Circles and figure 8s with lead changes usually do the trick. Ground poles also help to get the horse backed off of the bit.
Also I was thinking that you might be hanging on the bit, try letting her go (loosing the reins) and control her movements with your seat and leg-easier said than done especially with an eventer. I hope this helps. GOOD LUCK
She has been great with the pelham, going on the bit and waiting before jumps instead of running at them. I've been using the pelham (sometimes with the curb rein tied up) for flatwork and she's been doing beautifully.
My trainer has now told me (and I have double checked) that the pelham is illegal for dressage events. I am now looking for a new bit to use in dressage. My trainer had me work her in a buche (b-ring?) bit, but my mare was very tense and heavy in the bridle. I now work her in a mullen mouth loose ring, which she appeared to like and respond too, but she has now taken to throwing her head up and fight my rein contact. She is basically another horse wearing this bit and I'm becoming frustraited with her
Thanks!
Answers:
Aurora
Its just too easy to sit on a mullen mouth! The neck gets strong, the jumps fall. Too easy to get heavy. Its not a great idea to tie the curb rein, then your merely using the pelham as a curb bit with one rein. That gives you strong control but not shape or a softer mouth. List of bits link:
http://www.doversaddlery.com/category.as...
If she is strong on the french link,and passed the first levels, it might be time for a Bradoon and Weymouth combo for dressage ( only). I'd lighten her up off the Mullen with a>> low port dee or a correctional low port dee. %26lt;%26lt; You might really like that one for Cross Country phase.
The bradoon IS the legal option with a weymouth. Its upper level stuff if your ready for it.( can be scored harshley if not). Since you will switch back to a french link for the show jumping last,the weymouth is a good bet.*
Pellhams do not utalize two reins independantly thus are illegal ( cruel and innacurate).
Your competing in three very different events, and correct for the event bits make a huge difference.
I reccomend taking her back to a basic bit like a snaffle, and working out her issues slowly. Get her light and responsive. be patient, it will payoff! If you get her goo and light, you can show her in whatever bit you want! (thats legal) Good luck!
The baucher bit was what I was going to suggest at first, but since you've already tried that I have to think about it more. Pelhams are illegal, as are kimberwickes, or anything with a port or shank unless you're riding in a double bridle.
Have you tried a KK bit? It's a very soft bit but maybe she's throwing her head up because your hands are not soft enough. Make sure you ride her back to front, using leg to activate her hind end and ride her into the bridle. Many riders try and force the head down with their hands to get a frame and the horses respond in the same manner as your mare.
Go back to the snaffle.. It's light on the mouth.
In some organizations, a pelham bit is allowed in upper levels, but only on ponies who lack sufficient space in their mouth for a double bridle.
Try using an adjustable snaffle.
Rubber Jointed Mouth Gag Snaffle.
Rubber Jointed Eggbutt.
Barrel D-Ring.
If the eggbutt works most, try using a variety other than the plain snaffle. (Center down through 2nd link)
You can use a double bridle. If your hands are soft and sensitive enough, double bridles are legal. I don't know how advanced you are in your dressage training but I use a double bridle to really manipulate the horse's engagement and movement. Talk to your trainer about this option and whether your horse is ready. I find it a very good option and it is often espoused by the purist classical riders who are far more talented than I.
In another note, those that are opposed to the pelham, and surely other bits, are often misguided. The pelham has a very apt time and place. Today modernists find the snaffle to be the end-all bit. While the snaffle is appropriate in most cases, I disagree entirely with their universality. These things were invented with good reason and as it stands, the era in which they were created we were far more horse-dependent than in the modern era where they are more luxury than necessity. Furthermore the Victorians believed the pelham to be proverbial "child's play" in contrast to the double so to say its cruel seems a bit harsh. They also found the snaffle to be only appropriate for green horses, green riders and in very few instances fox hunting, but never ever for a finished horse.
By the by, thanks to a previous post with the BC Tack shop Link, what a great selection!
This is going to sound silly, but have you had her teeth floated in a while? Sometimes the heaviness and head throwing come from a hook or something with their teeth. The head throwing is a red flag that you might want to get her teeth checked asap!
If her teeth are not the issue, you might want to try some exercises that make her back off of the bit and wait for you to ask her to surge forward. Circles and figure 8s with lead changes usually do the trick. Ground poles also help to get the horse backed off of the bit.
Also I was thinking that you might be hanging on the bit, try letting her go (loosing the reins) and control her movements with your seat and leg-easier said than done especially with an eventer. I hope this helps. GOOD LUCK
Any stables near the minnetonka area?
i was wondering if anyone knew of stable with cheap board ($200 or less a month) that is 35 minutes or less away from
Minnetonka, MN. It must have an indoor arena and english riding with lessons. Thank you for your help!!
Answers:
you may find someplace in the area with cheap board. There are a few individuals that will rent pasture to horse owners. But you are never going to find a place with lessons and an indoor for $200 or less! I haven't lived in that area for 3 years but did for over 30 years. Luce Line stable in Watertown was the cheapest then but no lessons are avalible. Misty Meadows used to be near Delano but is no longer in existance, I think. They were the cheapest I knew about and were $150 for pasture board and the indoor was only avalible in the winter.
Check out the Minnesota Horse council's website: http://www.horses-mn.org/mlinks.aspx?cat...
That will tell you all the certified stables in Minnesota. Perhaps that will help.
But I think you're going to have to figure out how to pay much closer to $300 to $400 for what you want.
I live in Excelsior MN and there are quite a few out 7 west, maple plain have u looked in the yellow pages under boarding. Jacqurei oaks stables is real close and has access to loose line trail system I dont know if she has any pasture boarding but I just talked to her a few days ago about boarding myself.
Minnetonka, MN. It must have an indoor arena and english riding with lessons. Thank you for your help!!
Answers:
you may find someplace in the area with cheap board. There are a few individuals that will rent pasture to horse owners. But you are never going to find a place with lessons and an indoor for $200 or less! I haven't lived in that area for 3 years but did for over 30 years. Luce Line stable in Watertown was the cheapest then but no lessons are avalible. Misty Meadows used to be near Delano but is no longer in existance, I think. They were the cheapest I knew about and were $150 for pasture board and the indoor was only avalible in the winter.
Check out the Minnesota Horse council's website: http://www.horses-mn.org/mlinks.aspx?cat...
That will tell you all the certified stables in Minnesota. Perhaps that will help.
But I think you're going to have to figure out how to pay much closer to $300 to $400 for what you want.
I live in Excelsior MN and there are quite a few out 7 west, maple plain have u looked in the yellow pages under boarding. Jacqurei oaks stables is real close and has access to loose line trail system I dont know if she has any pasture boarding but I just talked to her a few days ago about boarding myself.
Any Shows soon??
Is there any shows coming up in Indiana in the next xouple months?? Please Help! I am getting a horse soon and would love to show her!
Answers:
Go to your local tack stores sometimes they have show bills up there.
Google it
findout from the net
Answers:
Go to your local tack stores sometimes they have show bills up there.
Google it
findout from the net
Any really good PLACES TO BORD A HORSES IN READING,TEWKSBURY,WILMINGTON,WOBORN (MA)?
I have been looking for a horse for my b-day i found one she is so sweet and all i need is to find a bording barn in one of the towns
but it has to around $0 to $250-300
PLEASE MAKE MY DREAM COME TRUE!!!!!!!!!!...
Answers:
I am not sure how close you are to W. Springfield but Equine Affaire will be there in Nov. You should find some good contacts there for a future boarding barn.
but it has to around $0 to $250-300
PLEASE MAKE MY DREAM COME TRUE!!!!!!!!!!...
Answers:
I am not sure how close you are to W. Springfield but Equine Affaire will be there in Nov. You should find some good contacts there for a future boarding barn.
Any one know of any equine or animal based therapy ranches in southern cali?
I'm looking to get a job at an equine therapy ranch in Southern cali but I'm having trouble finding any.
And when I say equine therapy ranch I don't meen therapy for the horses it is therapy ranches for people with the treatment based around horses.
Thanks
Answers:
Hopefully the following links will help find what you're looking for!
I don't live in California but I do what you are looking for and wanted to point out a few things.
A=DO NOT DO THIS if you don't enjoy working with children who will pinch, scratch, kick punch, scream and other things because they are in-capable of realizing they are doing this.
B= This kind of therapy is called Hippo Therapy. It comes from the Greek root word for horse.
Good luck.
And when I say equine therapy ranch I don't meen therapy for the horses it is therapy ranches for people with the treatment based around horses.
Thanks
Answers:
Hopefully the following links will help find what you're looking for!
I don't live in California but I do what you are looking for and wanted to point out a few things.
A=DO NOT DO THIS if you don't enjoy working with children who will pinch, scratch, kick punch, scream and other things because they are in-capable of realizing they are doing this.
B= This kind of therapy is called Hippo Therapy. It comes from the Greek root word for horse.
Good luck.
Any one know how to research cattle brands in Texas?
I am sure there is a cattle brand registry, but I am having a hard time finding anything online. Anyone know any good resources for identifying active brands?
Answers:
Texas
The state of Texas records brands by county. Texas brands are recorded with the county clerk of the county in which the animals are located. Each Texas county also sends a copy of the brand registration to the Texas and Southwestern Cattle Raisers Association, who enters the brands into a database for retrieval by their officers / inspectors, and can be used by other law Enforcement entities in their theft investigations. Texas also stations over 70 inspectors at livestock sales facilities around the state to monitor animals, as well as sellers passing through these facilities.
The organization has jurisdiction in both Texas %26 Oklahoma for its Law Enforcement functions, and Field Inspectors are Commissioned in Texas %26 or Oklahoma, as Sworn Peace Officers. The association is also the go-to agency for Texas Brand Inspection documents for those animals traveling to or through mandatory inspection states.
Our thanks to S. M. Clark, Brand Inspector with the TX %26 SW Cattle Raisers Assn Law Enforcement / Inspections Division for providing this information.
try going to the cattlemans association.
All I can find/think of is:
http://www.nathankramer.com/settle/artic...
County Clerk's office.
Check the web for Texas Cattle/cattleman Associations, the usually keep records on file, you might have to use snail mail to get the info.
www.cowboyshowcase.com/brands. -
The Cattlemen's Texas Longhorn Registry is dedicated to preserving ... Cattle must be hot-iron branded with a holding brand and a private herd number. ...
www.ctlr.org/registration.html - 7k - Cached - Similar pages
Answers:
Texas
The state of Texas records brands by county. Texas brands are recorded with the county clerk of the county in which the animals are located. Each Texas county also sends a copy of the brand registration to the Texas and Southwestern Cattle Raisers Association, who enters the brands into a database for retrieval by their officers / inspectors, and can be used by other law Enforcement entities in their theft investigations. Texas also stations over 70 inspectors at livestock sales facilities around the state to monitor animals, as well as sellers passing through these facilities.
The organization has jurisdiction in both Texas %26 Oklahoma for its Law Enforcement functions, and Field Inspectors are Commissioned in Texas %26 or Oklahoma, as Sworn Peace Officers. The association is also the go-to agency for Texas Brand Inspection documents for those animals traveling to or through mandatory inspection states.
Our thanks to S. M. Clark, Brand Inspector with the TX %26 SW Cattle Raisers Assn Law Enforcement / Inspections Division for providing this information.
try going to the cattlemans association.
All I can find/think of is:
http://www.nathankramer.com/settle/artic...
County Clerk's office.
Check the web for Texas Cattle/cattleman Associations, the usually keep records on file, you might have to use snail mail to get the info.
www.cowboyshowcase.com/brands. -
The Cattlemen's Texas Longhorn Registry is dedicated to preserving ... Cattle must be hot-iron branded with a holding brand and a private herd number. ...
www.ctlr.org/registration.html - 7k - Cached - Similar pages
Any one know a cheap but great horse summer camp?
I need a good horse camp that is cheap. rather cheap then great but at laest 75% good.
Any suggestions?
Answers:
omg,omg,OMG!!!! that is SUCH a coincidence!!! i have been searching for the exact thing!!!! idk any but I'll be checking back on this question 4 results
where?
okay.. where do you live and how old are you. i am a camp counselor and the camp is fun. But usually there are only younger kids in the camp, not older. If you live in or around alpharetta, georgia. then you should try my barn's camp. our stable is online. www.tirnanogfarm.net
Go to the website of the American Camping Association and check out their directory. They list all the camps of the type that you want that are accredited ( I don't recommend going to one that isn't, for safety and health reasons) and some of them should be inexpensive and affordable to you. Keep in mind that any camp that is also run by certain organizations, such as the YMCA, will have some type of sponsorship or tuition assistance program available for people who can't afford the camp experience but want it for their kids.
camp marydale: in louisiana or mississippi
I know of a camp in Florida that is 14 years old (built in 1993). :0
Any suggestions?
Answers:
omg,omg,OMG!!!! that is SUCH a coincidence!!! i have been searching for the exact thing!!!! idk any but I'll be checking back on this question 4 results
where?
okay.. where do you live and how old are you. i am a camp counselor and the camp is fun. But usually there are only younger kids in the camp, not older. If you live in or around alpharetta, georgia. then you should try my barn's camp. our stable is online. www.tirnanogfarm.net
Go to the website of the American Camping Association and check out their directory. They list all the camps of the type that you want that are accredited ( I don't recommend going to one that isn't, for safety and health reasons) and some of them should be inexpensive and affordable to you. Keep in mind that any camp that is also run by certain organizations, such as the YMCA, will have some type of sponsorship or tuition assistance program available for people who can't afford the camp experience but want it for their kids.
camp marydale: in louisiana or mississippi
I know of a camp in Florida that is 14 years old (built in 1993). :0
Any one have any experience with internal abscesses in horses?
I'm not having a lot of luck on the net %26 my vet is at an emergency and hasn't called me back yet. My 9 year old TB mare hasn't been feeling well. On %26 off her feed, a little lameness (could be unrelated) somewhat colicky and losing weight etc. Her blood work came back normal day before yesterday, so the vet %26 I are stumped. I started her on ulcer meds that same day without much improvement. This morning she had an oatmealy looking discharge down the back of her booty %26 it really really stunk but she also seemed to be feeling better %26 wanted to eat. I cleaned her up %26 she ate. Any ideas? anyone? I was thinking possibly and internal abscess but have never experienced it myself
Answers:
If she's discharging from the uterus, it's not an abscess, it's a uterine infection. This can be easily corrected with daily infusions of saline and Gentomycin which you can have your vet do. Pieces of retained placenta or other infectious material inside the uterus can lead the horse to eventually founder so she needs to be flushed out as soon as possible. Thick smelly discharge is the main symptom of a uterine infection. The vet should also take a swab from her and culture it to see what she is infected with. It can be caused by Klebsiella, Pseudomonas, yeast and E Coli. Mares that have poor confirmation behind can infect themselves with E Coli. When they defecate, some of it gets inside the vulva and that's how the infection begins. She can be stitched down to prevent this happening.
Look up Pidgeon fever and see if that could be your horses problem. Its a huge issue out here in the west. Typically they abcess out some where in a dependent portion like the belly or chest, but I have seen other abcess out in the legs etc.
Other than that, internal (such as inside the horses abdominal contents) would be bastard strangles. What your describing is more external and sounds like possibly pidgeon fever.
Good luck!
PS I read the poster below me, I guess i wan't thinking it was coming from her vulva. Good job to that poster btw.
IF that is the case, she does need a vet to irrigate her and give her antibiotics. Pyometria is not something to play around with at all.
If the discharge is from her vulva, I'd bet a stack of money on pyometra. If the pus is now draining, the majority of the danger is passed, especially if she is feeling well enough to eat again. When your vet is available, let him or her know about the draining pus and they will be happy to have found the problem.
Often pyometra is so well-encapsulated in the uterus that the white blood cell count is low enough to be misleading.
My Haflinger pony had 1 if the lamenas is in her lower leg and looks a littl stiff and your vet thinks its a abscesse then you shood put a diper on the hoof and duck tape the top rap her leg in cotten then vet rap put her out in small padock and let her rest and dont let her run arond thats wat my vet aime egglston told me to do for my horse and shees the best vet ever GOOD LUCK :)
Answers:
If she's discharging from the uterus, it's not an abscess, it's a uterine infection. This can be easily corrected with daily infusions of saline and Gentomycin which you can have your vet do. Pieces of retained placenta or other infectious material inside the uterus can lead the horse to eventually founder so she needs to be flushed out as soon as possible. Thick smelly discharge is the main symptom of a uterine infection. The vet should also take a swab from her and culture it to see what she is infected with. It can be caused by Klebsiella, Pseudomonas, yeast and E Coli. Mares that have poor confirmation behind can infect themselves with E Coli. When they defecate, some of it gets inside the vulva and that's how the infection begins. She can be stitched down to prevent this happening.
Look up Pidgeon fever and see if that could be your horses problem. Its a huge issue out here in the west. Typically they abcess out some where in a dependent portion like the belly or chest, but I have seen other abcess out in the legs etc.
Other than that, internal (such as inside the horses abdominal contents) would be bastard strangles. What your describing is more external and sounds like possibly pidgeon fever.
Good luck!
PS I read the poster below me, I guess i wan't thinking it was coming from her vulva. Good job to that poster btw.
IF that is the case, she does need a vet to irrigate her and give her antibiotics. Pyometria is not something to play around with at all.
If the discharge is from her vulva, I'd bet a stack of money on pyometra. If the pus is now draining, the majority of the danger is passed, especially if she is feeling well enough to eat again. When your vet is available, let him or her know about the draining pus and they will be happy to have found the problem.
Often pyometra is so well-encapsulated in the uterus that the white blood cell count is low enough to be misleading.
My Haflinger pony had 1 if the lamenas is in her lower leg and looks a littl stiff and your vet thinks its a abscesse then you shood put a diper on the hoof and duck tape the top rap her leg in cotten then vet rap put her out in small padock and let her rest and dont let her run arond thats wat my vet aime egglston told me to do for my horse and shees the best vet ever GOOD LUCK :)
Any one ever heard of a 7-way shot?
My vet usually gives a 6-way.
Whats in that?
but the barn owner gave some of the horses a 7 way + rabies
Whats in a 7 way then?
What catalog do you order it from?
Answers:
If I am correct, I believe the 7-way shot includes the following:
*Eastern Encephalitis
*Western Encephalitis
*Venezualan Encephalitis
*Tetanus
*Influenza
*Rhinopneumanitis
*West Nile Virus
I am not 100% sure on this, though, but I think that is the combination. The vets around here stopped using it failry quickly because of the reactions the horses were having to getting all those things at once. There were allergic reactions, injection site abcesses, sore muscles -- nothing DIED, so it wasn't that bad, but it still was concerning enough to keep all of the vets in my area from using it any more.
i dont know about horse but that is what killed my pug on his yearly vaccines
there are 7 different vaccines in the same shot i'm not sure what they are. but i do know that only vets can administer the drugs
ok, in regards to the answer that was previously recieved, the pug probably reacted to the lepto in the vaccine, as far as horses go and there is no lepto in the vaccine. as far as reactions, longevity, and performance, it depends on the brand. it is a fairly good vaccine. if you are still worried about this you can look on a providers web site. try: pfiezer, or butler.
No matter what is in the shot, it's really not a good idea to hit any animal with 7 vaccines at the same time. It stresses the body, and a horse in less than optimum condition could react badly. It's better to do your vaccinations in two visits if you have a lot of them to do.
Amandal is correct!
multiple shots are common these days
Whats in that?
but the barn owner gave some of the horses a 7 way + rabies
Whats in a 7 way then?
What catalog do you order it from?
Answers:
If I am correct, I believe the 7-way shot includes the following:
*Eastern Encephalitis
*Western Encephalitis
*Venezualan Encephalitis
*Tetanus
*Influenza
*Rhinopneumanitis
*West Nile Virus
I am not 100% sure on this, though, but I think that is the combination. The vets around here stopped using it failry quickly because of the reactions the horses were having to getting all those things at once. There were allergic reactions, injection site abcesses, sore muscles -- nothing DIED, so it wasn't that bad, but it still was concerning enough to keep all of the vets in my area from using it any more.
i dont know about horse but that is what killed my pug on his yearly vaccines
there are 7 different vaccines in the same shot i'm not sure what they are. but i do know that only vets can administer the drugs
ok, in regards to the answer that was previously recieved, the pug probably reacted to the lepto in the vaccine, as far as horses go and there is no lepto in the vaccine. as far as reactions, longevity, and performance, it depends on the brand. it is a fairly good vaccine. if you are still worried about this you can look on a providers web site. try: pfiezer, or butler.
No matter what is in the shot, it's really not a good idea to hit any animal with 7 vaccines at the same time. It stresses the body, and a horse in less than optimum condition could react badly. It's better to do your vaccinations in two visits if you have a lot of them to do.
Amandal is correct!
multiple shots are common these days
Any one else have an elderly horse/pony? How old is old?
My son rides a friends welsh pony, the pony is 29yrs old and looks half his age, he scrubs up really well for shows and is so handsome(yeah I know we are biased!)
Does anyone else have an elderly pony, my 10 %26 6 yrs olds worry about him getting older and dying, how much longer could he go on for?
Answers:
I got my first horse was 26 years old, I was 10.
My trainer gave her to me, but before she made the decision, she contemplated it a lot.
Fearing that I would love her and then something could happen.
She finally decided to give her to me, figuring its better to have been given the chance to love and enjoyed this horse (if even for a short time), than never haven been given the chance.
Before this my favorite lesson horse had passed and it was hard, but I was just happy that I got a chance to ride her and enjoy her, after a few days of tears.
I love the horse she gave me, it has taught me everything.
She is now 34 and still going. She gives lessons to small children who just love her.
They find a connection with her and truly enjoy even just grooming her.
My horse is an Arab, a breed that ages slowly and lives long. (mine doesn't look at all her age and has only a touch of arthritis)
Welsh ponies, along with most ponies live a long time. With proper care and love, as I am sure your pony gets, he can live until he is 40.
Not to say that bad things dont happen.
Your their parent so your the only one that can prepare them for his death, but no one can really be prepared.
I am 17 and still not ready.
Help them enjoy their time and be proud of his age and how well he does, instead of worried.
That's what I did and do, I just know that no matter what my girl leads a great life.
Good Luck and I hope this helped
love will keep it alive.
True ponies, Welsh and Shetland, being popular breeds have been know to live to an average age of 20 or more years. I would say that this animal is very elderly but if he still has good teeth and moves well then he could live a good while longer. In all honestly I would figure in months rather than years. Be mindful of his teeth and eyes, they are usually the first to go.
While I don't own a horse or pony,I really like them,and know a little about them.if your pony is in good health,then he could live for several more years,as the oldest pony on record lived to be 54 years old! It doesn't say what kind of pony,but still,that's really something.Maybe your pony will beat that!
http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/pony/record...
WELL THE OLDEST HORSE LIVED UNTIL 62 HAVE FAITH 29 ISNT OLD AT ALL
I KNO A RIDING SCHOOL AND THERE PRIME HORSE AGE IS 25
I knew and rode a horse of 36. He eventually passed away aged approx 40. And I have known 3 ponies still in work in their 30's. He can go on for as long as he is healthy and enjoying it... I hope it's may more years - you obviously look after him well!!
Welsh's tend to have a long life span. i would say, barring illness/accident, there could well be a fair few yrs left in him. just be aware he may well need more specialist care i.e. teeth, feet, feed, rugs?, n may well go 'downhill' if he isnt in work/busy environment especially if he loves it.
my mum learnt to ride on a 42yr old welsh D, n it did the pony the world of good. her arthritis was so much better for a bit of riding and she loved hacking out. my mum also came in the paddock quite alot on this horse when i was on a youngster to give mine confidence etc. she died at 44 of natural causes, but i think if she was still bein ridden then, she may well ave gone on longer (due to personal reasons she had to be laid off work)
I have a 26 year old Morgan horse! I enter him in some of the 4-H shows %26 he can outrun some of the younger ones! I wouldn't worry to much. Just as long as he isn't showing signs of artheritis or anything else.
He sounds like he's doing pretty good so I'm guessing that he could probably go to 35-40.
Well the pony seems pretty fit and healthy. horses live to 30 normaly if they live a good life. Ponies can live to 40. So I'd say the pony has about 2-3 yrs left. but i could be wrong!
My mare is 19, but wow ! 29 and still going strong well done !
You must be caring for him beautifully.
I do know of a 28 yr hunter still going out for 3 hours at a time.
My first pony was 32 when we had to put him to sleep and it was only because his teeth had gone and we could'nt keep any condition on him, so rather than watch him waste away, we decided the kindest thing to do would be to put him to sleep. He was still strong in heart and lung though.
Welshes are SO tough, I'm sure your boy will go for a few years yet.
Enjoy him while you can and treasure every day he is with you.. xxx
If he's a welsh mountain he could go on for year's they are very hardy, your chap is quiet old, but having said that he could live to 35!
My friends pony was slightly taller than your one but he was 44 years old when a vet had to put him down, but he was still going strong at 43 yrs old!! My friend stopped riding him when he started getting tired quickly and didn't particulary want to work as much, by the sound of your one he could go on for at least another few years
x
I own a 23 year old appendix quarter horse and she looks like she is 9... im not exaggerating. she is in great health and she is still eventing and doing great! I say that if its healthy... and it has a lot of care it should live for a lot longer :)
I had a New Forest pony back home and he died last year at the age of 35. I showed and hunted him as a kid and he's lived out on the hillside for the past 20 years. He did good except that his back was really swayed. We also had a Dartmoor pony and he lived until 32 and his main problem was that he lost his teeth, couldn't eat properly and lost so much weight. Native breeds like Welsh, New Forest, Shetlands etc always live longer. My old TB hunter that was turned out with my pony only lived to about 26 and that was pushing it. He should have a few more years in him yet.
My last horse was 33yrs old when he died and i had had him from the age of a yearling,the horse i have now is 22years old and i have had her for ten years, she will be stopping with me until she dies
i personally don't own a elderly horse, but I have one on the farm. She's a 32 year old Thoroughbred. You can tell she's old by looking at her body (looks sore), but she has the personality of a young filly.
One thing to bear in mind is that ponies usually outlive horses by 100 fold. As a very very gross average horses live to 20, while some breeds of pony can live to 40 or more. Modern medicine has extended these numbers, allowing horses to not only live well into their 30's, but also be useful to an extent into their 20's.
I have known many ponies, from cross-bred mutts to shetland ponies and others that have lived until 30-40 years, and had been a lesson pony until the days they died. At 29, if the pony you ride has no health issues, there is no reason he can't be a good working pony for a few more years easily.
I have a 23-24ish horse that unfortunately cannot be ridden anymore, and while he is heatlhy in all other respects, he has a very severe affliction of navicular in his feet that needs daily maintenence and careful monitoring along wiht regular vet visits and xrays. He has been seen by 8 vets over the course of the last 2 years, and every one of them has said his Xrays belong in a college study, they are amongst the worst these vets have seen. If his feet were out of the issue, I would expect him to live at least to 28-30, but when his ability to stay comfortable and walking in a pasture ceases, I will be put into a position to have to make a decision on him.
well ponies generally live longer than horses, but if hes in good health and stuff you son could probably ride him till he gets too big or the pony dies a natural death, considering the health he is in now (which sounds pretty good!) he could probably go on for about 5 more years!!
Don't worry we have a 35 year old horse on my yard.
The oldest horse we had was 38 when she died, and she would have lived longer if she hadn't slipped in the pasture and injured her back. My Arab/Saddlebred gelding is 21, and looks/acts like he's 8. I've never had experience with ponies, but they do tend to live longer than horses. I'd say that since the pony is healthy, he's got a fair few good years left.
My pony died at 25, which was a pretty long life, your lucky yours is even older, and still in good health.
You didn't mention if this is your only equine. but if it is I might suggets a 10 year old or so pasture pal. this would be there as a buddy and hopefully help the transition( for the kids) when it is that time for the Senior.
most horses only live till there about 30 years old so about one more year and i have a horse that is about 19 years old
i have a 30 yr. old quarter/ arab cross. she is not ridden any longer, so she is a little overweight ;) but once in a while she is able to get through our fence somehow, and she forgets how to get back! we have a 45 acre lot next door, and she ran as fast as she could along our fenceline trying to get back! she has a lot of energy still left in her. sometimes i chase her around in her field, and she starts galloping and bucking! its hilarious! i heard that a horse's average life span is 20- 25 yrs. but i know of a lot of older horses that are doing perfectly well. that pony sounds as if he could keel over any second from old age or live as long as father time from his health!
the horse i ride is 14.6 and she is an arab/standard bred. she is 26. another horse i ride is 15.7 and she is pure quarter and she is 29 and retired
My beautiful Star died last month age 29 and had been with me 20 years. She was still healthy and in work 3 times a week until March then started to go off her food and get thinner and thinner. She had liver failure, and I had to have her shot in the end before she started to suffer. My point is that horses that are healthy with no problems such as lameness go on and on being great and you think they will live for ever, but in the end their systems fail and they go quickly. So there is no way of knowing, he may be dead in 3 months or he may live another 10 years. Certainly keep riding him if he is fit and happy, and be thankful to have such an experienced pony for your children.
My Quarter Horse Mare died at age 45 she was the poster girl for Purina Equine Senior. She passed 2 years ago.
My Appy Mare died last Feb at age 32.
I have two right now 22 and 24 sound and still showing a little.
I rode the Quarter Horse well into her 30's without any problems. You have take it easier and be more patient. I didn't show her anymore she was a gaming horse.
I rode the Appy a year after she was totally blind. My mare did really well but I had so many other horses to ride.
my daughters welsh mountain pony is 27yrs and she has pleanty of go still in her she loves jumping too,we have two old horses one 32yrs and other 36yrs who just eat grass all day resting i hope they still have a few years left..
Ponies routinely live longer than most horses and ponies into their mid to late 30's are not all that uncommon. Your's sounds like it's doing well so far, but reality is, he's getting older. The children will have to face the fact that he may get too old to ride in the near future. I've seen horses and ponies do very well all the way up to a year or so before they have to be put down. I have a 27 yr. old Arab who is doing just fine. He does trail trials, and gives a few lessons with children but for all intents and purposes is retired. With his relaxed life in the turnout with his horse friends, light riding and proper care, my horse, and your pony should keep going strong for years to come.
According to the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food many horses live beyond the age of 30 with good care. The average age is 28 + 5 years. Ponies tend to live longer with many ponies still serving as schoolmasters well into their 30's.
The oldest horse on record lived in Woolston, England %26 lived to be 62. Another lady in Ky. has one that's 52. So you never know.
Does anyone else have an elderly pony, my 10 %26 6 yrs olds worry about him getting older and dying, how much longer could he go on for?
Answers:
I got my first horse was 26 years old, I was 10.
My trainer gave her to me, but before she made the decision, she contemplated it a lot.
Fearing that I would love her and then something could happen.
She finally decided to give her to me, figuring its better to have been given the chance to love and enjoyed this horse (if even for a short time), than never haven been given the chance.
Before this my favorite lesson horse had passed and it was hard, but I was just happy that I got a chance to ride her and enjoy her, after a few days of tears.
I love the horse she gave me, it has taught me everything.
She is now 34 and still going. She gives lessons to small children who just love her.
They find a connection with her and truly enjoy even just grooming her.
My horse is an Arab, a breed that ages slowly and lives long. (mine doesn't look at all her age and has only a touch of arthritis)
Welsh ponies, along with most ponies live a long time. With proper care and love, as I am sure your pony gets, he can live until he is 40.
Not to say that bad things dont happen.
Your their parent so your the only one that can prepare them for his death, but no one can really be prepared.
I am 17 and still not ready.
Help them enjoy their time and be proud of his age and how well he does, instead of worried.
That's what I did and do, I just know that no matter what my girl leads a great life.
Good Luck and I hope this helped
love will keep it alive.
True ponies, Welsh and Shetland, being popular breeds have been know to live to an average age of 20 or more years. I would say that this animal is very elderly but if he still has good teeth and moves well then he could live a good while longer. In all honestly I would figure in months rather than years. Be mindful of his teeth and eyes, they are usually the first to go.
While I don't own a horse or pony,I really like them,and know a little about them.if your pony is in good health,then he could live for several more years,as the oldest pony on record lived to be 54 years old! It doesn't say what kind of pony,but still,that's really something.Maybe your pony will beat that!
http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/pony/record...
WELL THE OLDEST HORSE LIVED UNTIL 62 HAVE FAITH 29 ISNT OLD AT ALL
I KNO A RIDING SCHOOL AND THERE PRIME HORSE AGE IS 25
I knew and rode a horse of 36. He eventually passed away aged approx 40. And I have known 3 ponies still in work in their 30's. He can go on for as long as he is healthy and enjoying it... I hope it's may more years - you obviously look after him well!!
Welsh's tend to have a long life span. i would say, barring illness/accident, there could well be a fair few yrs left in him. just be aware he may well need more specialist care i.e. teeth, feet, feed, rugs?, n may well go 'downhill' if he isnt in work/busy environment especially if he loves it.
my mum learnt to ride on a 42yr old welsh D, n it did the pony the world of good. her arthritis was so much better for a bit of riding and she loved hacking out. my mum also came in the paddock quite alot on this horse when i was on a youngster to give mine confidence etc. she died at 44 of natural causes, but i think if she was still bein ridden then, she may well ave gone on longer (due to personal reasons she had to be laid off work)
I have a 26 year old Morgan horse! I enter him in some of the 4-H shows %26 he can outrun some of the younger ones! I wouldn't worry to much. Just as long as he isn't showing signs of artheritis or anything else.
He sounds like he's doing pretty good so I'm guessing that he could probably go to 35-40.
Well the pony seems pretty fit and healthy. horses live to 30 normaly if they live a good life. Ponies can live to 40. So I'd say the pony has about 2-3 yrs left. but i could be wrong!
My mare is 19, but wow ! 29 and still going strong well done !
You must be caring for him beautifully.
I do know of a 28 yr hunter still going out for 3 hours at a time.
My first pony was 32 when we had to put him to sleep and it was only because his teeth had gone and we could'nt keep any condition on him, so rather than watch him waste away, we decided the kindest thing to do would be to put him to sleep. He was still strong in heart and lung though.
Welshes are SO tough, I'm sure your boy will go for a few years yet.
Enjoy him while you can and treasure every day he is with you.. xxx
If he's a welsh mountain he could go on for year's they are very hardy, your chap is quiet old, but having said that he could live to 35!
My friends pony was slightly taller than your one but he was 44 years old when a vet had to put him down, but he was still going strong at 43 yrs old!! My friend stopped riding him when he started getting tired quickly and didn't particulary want to work as much, by the sound of your one he could go on for at least another few years
x
I own a 23 year old appendix quarter horse and she looks like she is 9... im not exaggerating. she is in great health and she is still eventing and doing great! I say that if its healthy... and it has a lot of care it should live for a lot longer :)
I had a New Forest pony back home and he died last year at the age of 35. I showed and hunted him as a kid and he's lived out on the hillside for the past 20 years. He did good except that his back was really swayed. We also had a Dartmoor pony and he lived until 32 and his main problem was that he lost his teeth, couldn't eat properly and lost so much weight. Native breeds like Welsh, New Forest, Shetlands etc always live longer. My old TB hunter that was turned out with my pony only lived to about 26 and that was pushing it. He should have a few more years in him yet.
My last horse was 33yrs old when he died and i had had him from the age of a yearling,the horse i have now is 22years old and i have had her for ten years, she will be stopping with me until she dies
i personally don't own a elderly horse, but I have one on the farm. She's a 32 year old Thoroughbred. You can tell she's old by looking at her body (looks sore), but she has the personality of a young filly.
One thing to bear in mind is that ponies usually outlive horses by 100 fold. As a very very gross average horses live to 20, while some breeds of pony can live to 40 or more. Modern medicine has extended these numbers, allowing horses to not only live well into their 30's, but also be useful to an extent into their 20's.
I have known many ponies, from cross-bred mutts to shetland ponies and others that have lived until 30-40 years, and had been a lesson pony until the days they died. At 29, if the pony you ride has no health issues, there is no reason he can't be a good working pony for a few more years easily.
I have a 23-24ish horse that unfortunately cannot be ridden anymore, and while he is heatlhy in all other respects, he has a very severe affliction of navicular in his feet that needs daily maintenence and careful monitoring along wiht regular vet visits and xrays. He has been seen by 8 vets over the course of the last 2 years, and every one of them has said his Xrays belong in a college study, they are amongst the worst these vets have seen. If his feet were out of the issue, I would expect him to live at least to 28-30, but when his ability to stay comfortable and walking in a pasture ceases, I will be put into a position to have to make a decision on him.
well ponies generally live longer than horses, but if hes in good health and stuff you son could probably ride him till he gets too big or the pony dies a natural death, considering the health he is in now (which sounds pretty good!) he could probably go on for about 5 more years!!
Don't worry we have a 35 year old horse on my yard.
The oldest horse we had was 38 when she died, and she would have lived longer if she hadn't slipped in the pasture and injured her back. My Arab/Saddlebred gelding is 21, and looks/acts like he's 8. I've never had experience with ponies, but they do tend to live longer than horses. I'd say that since the pony is healthy, he's got a fair few good years left.
My pony died at 25, which was a pretty long life, your lucky yours is even older, and still in good health.
You didn't mention if this is your only equine. but if it is I might suggets a 10 year old or so pasture pal. this would be there as a buddy and hopefully help the transition( for the kids) when it is that time for the Senior.
most horses only live till there about 30 years old so about one more year and i have a horse that is about 19 years old
i have a 30 yr. old quarter/ arab cross. she is not ridden any longer, so she is a little overweight ;) but once in a while she is able to get through our fence somehow, and she forgets how to get back! we have a 45 acre lot next door, and she ran as fast as she could along our fenceline trying to get back! she has a lot of energy still left in her. sometimes i chase her around in her field, and she starts galloping and bucking! its hilarious! i heard that a horse's average life span is 20- 25 yrs. but i know of a lot of older horses that are doing perfectly well. that pony sounds as if he could keel over any second from old age or live as long as father time from his health!
the horse i ride is 14.6 and she is an arab/standard bred. she is 26. another horse i ride is 15.7 and she is pure quarter and she is 29 and retired
My beautiful Star died last month age 29 and had been with me 20 years. She was still healthy and in work 3 times a week until March then started to go off her food and get thinner and thinner. She had liver failure, and I had to have her shot in the end before she started to suffer. My point is that horses that are healthy with no problems such as lameness go on and on being great and you think they will live for ever, but in the end their systems fail and they go quickly. So there is no way of knowing, he may be dead in 3 months or he may live another 10 years. Certainly keep riding him if he is fit and happy, and be thankful to have such an experienced pony for your children.
My Quarter Horse Mare died at age 45 she was the poster girl for Purina Equine Senior. She passed 2 years ago.
My Appy Mare died last Feb at age 32.
I have two right now 22 and 24 sound and still showing a little.
I rode the Quarter Horse well into her 30's without any problems. You have take it easier and be more patient. I didn't show her anymore she was a gaming horse.
I rode the Appy a year after she was totally blind. My mare did really well but I had so many other horses to ride.
my daughters welsh mountain pony is 27yrs and she has pleanty of go still in her she loves jumping too,we have two old horses one 32yrs and other 36yrs who just eat grass all day resting i hope they still have a few years left..
Ponies routinely live longer than most horses and ponies into their mid to late 30's are not all that uncommon. Your's sounds like it's doing well so far, but reality is, he's getting older. The children will have to face the fact that he may get too old to ride in the near future. I've seen horses and ponies do very well all the way up to a year or so before they have to be put down. I have a 27 yr. old Arab who is doing just fine. He does trail trials, and gives a few lessons with children but for all intents and purposes is retired. With his relaxed life in the turnout with his horse friends, light riding and proper care, my horse, and your pony should keep going strong for years to come.
According to the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food many horses live beyond the age of 30 with good care. The average age is 28 + 5 years. Ponies tend to live longer with many ponies still serving as schoolmasters well into their 30's.
The oldest horse on record lived in Woolston, England %26 lived to be 62. Another lady in Ky. has one that's 52. So you never know.
Any Mule and Donkey admirers here?
I'm a very serious mule/donkey fan. I've had mules my entire 30+ yrs of life. Working with my second donkey. I've trained horses and mules my whole life as well. Curious to find others with same interests.
I'm immune to smart @$$ comments...they come with the territory.
TIA
Answers:
I take mules and donkeys seriously. I have a mule and two donkeys. One is a miniature donkey and the other is slightly larger. I got them before the Shrek fad, but since then, so many people comment on the donkeys. Alot of the old timers who come here know at a glance what the mule is. Some just glance and think it's a horse. The old timers have wonderful stories of actual field work they did with the mules or donkeys and how smart they are. Ever since I've had my smaller donkey, I have a rooster that discovered he can jump on their back. He jumps on both donkeys and has learned to hang on while they walk. The rooster is eating any bugs off their backs. I can't believe how docile the donkeys are -- they never have kicked the rooster. When the donkeys come back from the field, the rooster runs out to meet them. Who knew they could be so entertaining!! My mule is too wild to train-- we rescued her from the auction ring. Any ideas for what treats a mule would really enjoy?
wow.well everyone likes a nice a s s
america has never lost a war in which donkeys were used...
Im hung like a mule and donkey combined. Do you admire that? lmao
I saw a series of photos of a mule stomping a full grown Cougar to death when it attacked. Now thats what I want on a remote camp trail. Mules are hardy and foot sure!
Can you tell if it;s a jenny or a henny with out knowing what the sire is?
I love donkeys. I have 6 ex racehorses and i have 2 donkeys on my land. They kinda graze around with my boys, while my mares kick them away. They are soo sweet, mostly ugly.. but so much fun to be around.
good for you, no, really, i mean it.
I work with 2 belgian cross mules - Rock and Maggie. They are the best! I have been riding for about 15 years now, and I would take a mule any day. They are intelligent, strong, attentive, and make you keep you attention focused. I ride them, drive them single in a 2-wheeled cart, and double in a buckboard cart. I love tha fact that they will just go and go anf go and go.
I never thought much about it until one day i was out trail riding and a stud donkey followed me home! I began working with him and soon fell in love with his inquistive nature and how he asks "why should I do this" unlike a horse that says "okay, whatever" I got upset with him one day because he refused to walk through the gate into his pasture. so I undid his lead rope and smacked him on the butt to get him to jump through so I could shut the gate and go to school. when I got back a 6 inch thick post had been busted and Jack was no where in site! he'd run away from home because i hurt his feelings. it took several hours and the teasing of my mare to get him home. My 5 year old sister loves to ride the 12 hands tall stud. I decided to breed him to my 15 hand mare to get a mule. She's due in a few weeks now and I'm very excited! I love my donkey boy, but unfortunately we have to sell him to make room for the baby and we need the money to make some payments on a few things. i'll be heartbroke about it tho. I very much love donkeys and mules and i plan on registering my mule and becoming active in mule things when the foal gets old enough.
I went to Mule Days for the first time a few years ago and I was AMAZED with the team driving exhibition they did.
I ended up having a client buy a mule that was a natural born jumper and he was cute, friendly, and loyal.
Plus, the mule industry seems to be immune from the drama and gossip of the rest of the horse world. Being drama free is nice!
Sure,I've known and liked a few good ***'s in my time!
They're very smart and very sure footed.
I love them too! I have a 20+ year old Mule, Clyde, and two Donkeys, one mini, one standard. Did you see this one for sale?
http://www.dreamhorse.com/show_horse.php...
I have been drooling over him!
Pat
I'm immune to smart @$$ comments...they come with the territory.
TIA
Answers:
I take mules and donkeys seriously. I have a mule and two donkeys. One is a miniature donkey and the other is slightly larger. I got them before the Shrek fad, but since then, so many people comment on the donkeys. Alot of the old timers who come here know at a glance what the mule is. Some just glance and think it's a horse. The old timers have wonderful stories of actual field work they did with the mules or donkeys and how smart they are. Ever since I've had my smaller donkey, I have a rooster that discovered he can jump on their back. He jumps on both donkeys and has learned to hang on while they walk. The rooster is eating any bugs off their backs. I can't believe how docile the donkeys are -- they never have kicked the rooster. When the donkeys come back from the field, the rooster runs out to meet them. Who knew they could be so entertaining!! My mule is too wild to train-- we rescued her from the auction ring. Any ideas for what treats a mule would really enjoy?
wow.well everyone likes a nice a s s
america has never lost a war in which donkeys were used...
Im hung like a mule and donkey combined. Do you admire that? lmao
I saw a series of photos of a mule stomping a full grown Cougar to death when it attacked. Now thats what I want on a remote camp trail. Mules are hardy and foot sure!
Can you tell if it;s a jenny or a henny with out knowing what the sire is?
I love donkeys. I have 6 ex racehorses and i have 2 donkeys on my land. They kinda graze around with my boys, while my mares kick them away. They are soo sweet, mostly ugly.. but so much fun to be around.
good for you, no, really, i mean it.
I work with 2 belgian cross mules - Rock and Maggie. They are the best! I have been riding for about 15 years now, and I would take a mule any day. They are intelligent, strong, attentive, and make you keep you attention focused. I ride them, drive them single in a 2-wheeled cart, and double in a buckboard cart. I love tha fact that they will just go and go anf go and go.
I never thought much about it until one day i was out trail riding and a stud donkey followed me home! I began working with him and soon fell in love with his inquistive nature and how he asks "why should I do this" unlike a horse that says "okay, whatever" I got upset with him one day because he refused to walk through the gate into his pasture. so I undid his lead rope and smacked him on the butt to get him to jump through so I could shut the gate and go to school. when I got back a 6 inch thick post had been busted and Jack was no where in site! he'd run away from home because i hurt his feelings. it took several hours and the teasing of my mare to get him home. My 5 year old sister loves to ride the 12 hands tall stud. I decided to breed him to my 15 hand mare to get a mule. She's due in a few weeks now and I'm very excited! I love my donkey boy, but unfortunately we have to sell him to make room for the baby and we need the money to make some payments on a few things. i'll be heartbroke about it tho. I very much love donkeys and mules and i plan on registering my mule and becoming active in mule things when the foal gets old enough.
I went to Mule Days for the first time a few years ago and I was AMAZED with the team driving exhibition they did.
I ended up having a client buy a mule that was a natural born jumper and he was cute, friendly, and loyal.
Plus, the mule industry seems to be immune from the drama and gossip of the rest of the horse world. Being drama free is nice!
Sure,I've known and liked a few good ***'s in my time!
They're very smart and very sure footed.
I love them too! I have a 20+ year old Mule, Clyde, and two Donkeys, one mini, one standard. Did you see this one for sale?
http://www.dreamhorse.com/show_horse.php...
I have been drooling over him!
Pat
Any links for turqouis barrel racin tack?
I need tack from anywhere i want some linkss dont have time to search
Answers:
My color is turquiose too,
If you want nylon stuff:
Breastplate-$18.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
Noseband-$9.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
One Ear Headstall-$14.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
Barrel Reins-$9.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
Tie Down-$8.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
Or on ebay express I found:
1 ear headstall-$25
http://item.express.ebay.com/__equestria...
or a tack set (w/breastplate, headstall, reins, noseband) for $129.99-
http://item.express.ebay.com/__equestria...
or hair-on turquoise set(same as above) $129.99-
http://item.express.ebay.com/__equestria...
A set (includes saddle, headstall, breastplate, reins, saddle blanket)$299.99:
http://cgi.ebay.com/15-western-leather-t...
more stuff on ebay and ebay express!
Good Luck, I hope this helps you!
Ha ha my friend JUST bought a turquois western saddle. I kid you not. But I'm not sure where she bought it, but there are some out there.
http://www.goestores.com/catalog.aspx?me...
http://www.bufordsaddle.com/hr_custom_sa...
http://cgi.ebay.com/billy-cook-turquoise...
http://www.e-customtack.com/crystal_tack...
http://cgi.ebay.com/nwt-western-cinch-tu...
http://horseloversoutlet.com/colored_nyl...
Google it
www.google .com
Big R has some very colorful tack. http://www.bigr.com
You say you don't want to spend 40 on a headstall, but I have news for you...that's avg. And if you are looking for color, you are probably looking at that or more. Try eBay. Horses are not cheap...no aspect of it.
i got my barrel racin tack on ebay (bright purple) from the nash saddlery
i think i just saw some tack with turquoise in the jeffers catalog. www.jefferspet.com very good prices.
Answers:
My color is turquiose too,
If you want nylon stuff:
Breastplate-$18.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
Noseband-$9.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
One Ear Headstall-$14.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
Barrel Reins-$9.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
Tie Down-$8.99
http://www.rods.com/product.aspx?display...
Or on ebay express I found:
1 ear headstall-$25
http://item.express.ebay.com/__equestria...
or a tack set (w/breastplate, headstall, reins, noseband) for $129.99-
http://item.express.ebay.com/__equestria...
or hair-on turquoise set(same as above) $129.99-
http://item.express.ebay.com/__equestria...
A set (includes saddle, headstall, breastplate, reins, saddle blanket)$299.99:
http://cgi.ebay.com/15-western-leather-t...
more stuff on ebay and ebay express!
Good Luck, I hope this helps you!
Ha ha my friend JUST bought a turquois western saddle. I kid you not. But I'm not sure where she bought it, but there are some out there.
http://www.goestores.com/catalog.aspx?me...
http://www.bufordsaddle.com/hr_custom_sa...
http://cgi.ebay.com/billy-cook-turquoise...
http://www.e-customtack.com/crystal_tack...
http://cgi.ebay.com/nwt-western-cinch-tu...
http://horseloversoutlet.com/colored_nyl...
Google it
www.google .com
Big R has some very colorful tack. http://www.bigr.com
You say you don't want to spend 40 on a headstall, but I have news for you...that's avg. And if you are looking for color, you are probably looking at that or more. Try eBay. Horses are not cheap...no aspect of it.
i got my barrel racin tack on ebay (bright purple) from the nash saddlery
i think i just saw some tack with turquoise in the jeffers catalog. www.jefferspet.com very good prices.
Any links for cheap stall mats?
I need links for some nice, cheap but lasting stall mats. Please, share your good links, or advise me if you have at least four to sell.
Answers:
Tractor supply has some nice ones and were reasonably priced. I don't put mats in my stalls but I am looking at getting another layer in my new trailer for the longer trips and I so far, those are the ones I have picked out.
look up stall skins. Theyre cheap and allow moisture to go right though, keeping the stalls cleaner.
I go to a summer patio furniture store. The ones for swimming
pools like astro turf have some reinforced types that last.
I got a roll for 4 feet wide and 40 feet long for only 15.00 It did
last well when properly placed with some border slat matts.
The other one I have luck with is the basket with a fiberglass
wire sort of like a mule matt to prevent bucking. These smell
good like pineapple or plum. http://www.racinghorses.com
I bought some cheap stall mats for my stall, and it was a waste of my money. They were too light and they moved against each other in the stall when my horse walked. Therefore I'd end up with them buckled at one end, and over lapped on the other. My horse would trip on the raised edge, and pee would leak on the blank sides.
It was not a good investment in money. I had to take them out and do something else.
So don't be too much in a rush to get the cheapest product there is. You'd probably be better with packing clay in the stall and using extra bedding than really poor mats.
Good luck and if you find the perfect product for a good price, let me know!
Look out for farm auctions or agricultural sales - they usually have them there and the used ones are generally quite cheap. ( the ones used in cow stalls are very light and the horses will move them too easily though so try to avoid that sort.)
An alternative that I have used with one horse ( who tends to move the mats) is used conveyor belting - it's extremely tough and hard wearing and you can usually get it for free if you can find somewhere that's installing new. It is, however, very heavy and awkward to move.
Do you have any industries in your area? Call them up and see if they have any conveyer belts they want to throw away. Once they get worn, they usually toss them out. I have gotten bunches of them over the years. They are great and usually free. The down side is most of them come in about 40 feet!
Answers:
Tractor supply has some nice ones and were reasonably priced. I don't put mats in my stalls but I am looking at getting another layer in my new trailer for the longer trips and I so far, those are the ones I have picked out.
look up stall skins. Theyre cheap and allow moisture to go right though, keeping the stalls cleaner.
I go to a summer patio furniture store. The ones for swimming
pools like astro turf have some reinforced types that last.
I got a roll for 4 feet wide and 40 feet long for only 15.00 It did
last well when properly placed with some border slat matts.
The other one I have luck with is the basket with a fiberglass
wire sort of like a mule matt to prevent bucking. These smell
good like pineapple or plum. http://www.racinghorses.com
I bought some cheap stall mats for my stall, and it was a waste of my money. They were too light and they moved against each other in the stall when my horse walked. Therefore I'd end up with them buckled at one end, and over lapped on the other. My horse would trip on the raised edge, and pee would leak on the blank sides.
It was not a good investment in money. I had to take them out and do something else.
So don't be too much in a rush to get the cheapest product there is. You'd probably be better with packing clay in the stall and using extra bedding than really poor mats.
Good luck and if you find the perfect product for a good price, let me know!
Look out for farm auctions or agricultural sales - they usually have them there and the used ones are generally quite cheap. ( the ones used in cow stalls are very light and the horses will move them too easily though so try to avoid that sort.)
An alternative that I have used with one horse ( who tends to move the mats) is used conveyor belting - it's extremely tough and hard wearing and you can usually get it for free if you can find somewhere that's installing new. It is, however, very heavy and awkward to move.
Do you have any industries in your area? Call them up and see if they have any conveyer belts they want to throw away. Once they get worn, they usually toss them out. I have gotten bunches of them over the years. They are great and usually free. The down side is most of them come in about 40 feet!
Any know where i can find some?
well i luv 2 trail ride but i nvr really get 2 i was wonderin if there was any good ones in texas northern txs area actually was what i was lookin for
Answers:
I live in West Texas, but on a trip to Dallas for a golf tournament, my boyfriend and I took a trip to Cedar Hill, TX where a friend of ours is from and they have the Cedar Hill State Park. We went on a day trip and went hiking, and although I am not sure if they allow horses, the area was pretty neat. It was far for a trail ride from Dallas. 3 hours but worth it. You might wanna try and check it out on the net if your interested.
Cheers!
go on kijiji.ca or com
Answers:
I live in West Texas, but on a trip to Dallas for a golf tournament, my boyfriend and I took a trip to Cedar Hill, TX where a friend of ours is from and they have the Cedar Hill State Park. We went on a day trip and went hiking, and although I am not sure if they allow horses, the area was pretty neat. It was far for a trail ride from Dallas. 3 hours but worth it. You might wanna try and check it out on the net if your interested.
Cheers!
go on kijiji.ca or com
Any insite on the Welsh Cob Breed?
What is everyones opinion in regards to Welsh Cobs. I know every horse is different, but what is the experience you all have had with them? I have an opportunity to buy one for my kids to ride, but have never been around the breed before.
I appreciate any insite that you all may have.
Thanks!
Answers:
this breed is a wonderful breed for children and is very popular as a family horse because not only is it small enough for a child to ride it is also very strong and can carry a large man with great ease.
The welsh cob is one of four different types of the welsh family. It is the largest and strongest of the breeds as it was the result of the welsh mountain ponies being crossed with Roman imports such as the Analucian. It became a war horse both carrying mounted men as well as for pulling cannons.
this is a very versitile pony and does very well in both riding and driving and jumps extremely well. these ponies are very brave and kind and come in any color except pinto. and there height only goes up to about 15 hands.
i myself never had a welsh but I have plenty of friends that do and they never seem to buck, kick, or rear which makes them very safe for kids. If the pony is good with kids then I would consider it, but before you buy it make sure to take the kids to see it and ride it and make your judgement from there. If it handles all the petting and is patient with them when they are riding him then I would see no reason not to get it.
have fun!!
I know they are hard to come by. And very pricey.
If it is the right size and built. And it rides good get it.
To me one breed is as good as another.
I love welsh cobs, most are fantastic with kids and i will always fully love the breed. I own a welsh cob cross and i love her as she has the fantastic welsh temperament! all horses are different and it depends on the individual but all the welsh cobs i know are saints. they can be a bit strong,but that also depends on the individual. They are easy to keep, ( in my opinion after spending a fortune just keeping weight on my TBx the past winter!) and all i know are reliable family horses
They are a wonderful breed, a nice size and a personality to match.
Hi,
I share a horse with my dad's friend. He is a 12 year old 15hh Welsh sec D Cob. He has the sweetest temperament, however he is not a novice ride. You do not say how old your children are or how much riding experience they have, if they are older then a Welsh Cob may be the perfect horse for them, however if they are young then they may find it difficult to control the horse as Welsh sec D's are quite strong and can be forward going although I know that not all horses of the same breed are the same. You will have to allow your children to try the horse, and ask them how they feel. They do have excellent temperaments though, and are quite hardy.
I appreciate any insite that you all may have.
Thanks!
Answers:
this breed is a wonderful breed for children and is very popular as a family horse because not only is it small enough for a child to ride it is also very strong and can carry a large man with great ease.
The welsh cob is one of four different types of the welsh family. It is the largest and strongest of the breeds as it was the result of the welsh mountain ponies being crossed with Roman imports such as the Analucian. It became a war horse both carrying mounted men as well as for pulling cannons.
this is a very versitile pony and does very well in both riding and driving and jumps extremely well. these ponies are very brave and kind and come in any color except pinto. and there height only goes up to about 15 hands.
i myself never had a welsh but I have plenty of friends that do and they never seem to buck, kick, or rear which makes them very safe for kids. If the pony is good with kids then I would consider it, but before you buy it make sure to take the kids to see it and ride it and make your judgement from there. If it handles all the petting and is patient with them when they are riding him then I would see no reason not to get it.
have fun!!
I know they are hard to come by. And very pricey.
If it is the right size and built. And it rides good get it.
To me one breed is as good as another.
I love welsh cobs, most are fantastic with kids and i will always fully love the breed. I own a welsh cob cross and i love her as she has the fantastic welsh temperament! all horses are different and it depends on the individual but all the welsh cobs i know are saints. they can be a bit strong,but that also depends on the individual. They are easy to keep, ( in my opinion after spending a fortune just keeping weight on my TBx the past winter!) and all i know are reliable family horses
They are a wonderful breed, a nice size and a personality to match.
Hi,
I share a horse with my dad's friend. He is a 12 year old 15hh Welsh sec D Cob. He has the sweetest temperament, however he is not a novice ride. You do not say how old your children are or how much riding experience they have, if they are older then a Welsh Cob may be the perfect horse for them, however if they are young then they may find it difficult to control the horse as Welsh sec D's are quite strong and can be forward going although I know that not all horses of the same breed are the same. You will have to allow your children to try the horse, and ask them how they feel. They do have excellent temperaments though, and are quite hardy.
Any information on 'RUSSIAN DONS' - the breed of horse?
My friend has just rescued a gorgeous horse - Josh - and all she knows is that his breed is 'Thoroughbred / Don'. The 'Don' refers to 'Russian Don'. I'd like to find out any information on this breed. Can anyone help - thanks, Bev
Answers:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/russian_don...
http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/horse...
http://www.worldscreatures.com/land-spec...
=)
http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/horse...
http://www.horses.ru/don.htm
If you live in KY or near the Horse Park, I know they had a Russian Don (I haven't gone for a few years now though). My mom fell in love with him and wants a Russian Don, haha.
Awesome of your friend to rescue him!
Answers:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/russian_don...
http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/horse...
http://www.worldscreatures.com/land-spec...
=)
http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/horse...
http://www.horses.ru/don.htm
If you live in KY or near the Horse Park, I know they had a Russian Don (I haven't gone for a few years now though). My mom fell in love with him and wants a Russian Don, haha.
Awesome of your friend to rescue him!
Any ideas....?
i would like some ideas from hunt seat and dressage trainers on how to get my large horse to move smoothly into the canter instead of explodeing forward or simply speeding up to a fast trot... :D
any proven advice is very needed! Thanks
Answers:
Well without seeing you and your horse it is hard to give you information and help that would address your specific difficulties. It sounds like you could be seesawing betweeen having your horse overly sensitive to your leg and perhaps overcollected prior to the canter depart (thus the explosive depart) with being alittle too passive in your seat and leg while giving him away with your hands thus his just speeding up his trot. You need to find the happy medium. Are you sitting the trot prior to asking for the canter depart? Continuing to post reinforses the trot and will encourage him to speed up his trot rather than break into the canter. I would encourage you to do many transitions walk to halt, halt to walk, walk to trot, trot to halt halt to trot as well as transitions within the trot increasing and decreasing his speed. The goal of these transitions is to train your horse to give you a smooth yet immediate response to your aids. The more trainsitons the better. When you have them down at the simpler gaits you can then proceed to the canter. Here the easiest transition is sitting trot to canter. Walk to canter and halt to canter are more difficult. numerous transitions will help you achieve your goal. Set your horse up for the canter by picking a spot in the ring that you plan to start the canter at and then proceed to prepare for the lead by asking for the correct bend applying the correct seat and leg aids and then letting the horse move forward by giving at the appropriate time with your inside rein while keeping light contact with you outside rein. Try to get the canter with the lightest amount of leg and seat possible making sure you are not releasing your hand too much to soon. If he just trots faster bring him back to a slower gait, get him and yourself reorganized and back on the bit trotting nicely and ask again increasing your leg aid until you find the minimum amount of leg he requires to take the canter. It is really similar to loading up a spring the larger the amount of compression the bigger the spring will spring. The compression is achieved on the horse by a combination of seat, leg and hand. Again with out seeing you ride it is hard to be more specific.
reply to additional info. So there are no problems going from trot to canter? well then there are 2 possible reasons for the problem. #1 being she is over-anticipating being asked for the canter so mix it up with the trot and halt so she is not sure what is coming next as well as directional changes. Don't ask for too many of these departs in a schooling. Make it a short part of your ride and mix it up. The 2nd reason may be a lack of strength behind to engage properly and maintain being balanced. Build up his/her base with canter work on a 20 meter circle spiraling the circle in and then back out in both directions as well as transitions will strengthen your horse as well as some counter-canter work. Just simple 1/2 turns and holding the counterlead back to the long side of the arena to start with eventual countercanter on the short side of the arena as well in both directions.
Just sit down and hold him with your reins, but not too much, my horse sometimes has the same problem. You might check him a few times with your reins when asking for the transition. Then maybe stop him if or when he doesn't go into it quietly and collected and back him up, then try again.
Don't send the horse "mixed signals"... don't tell him to go but still pulling back on the reins... thats probably why he just goes into a fast trot... but i'm sure that if you practice more... and correctly, your horse is sure to get better at the transition into cantering
Do you do any long line work? This is a good way to strengthen up your horse so he can carry his leg well under him for the smooth canter depart. Work on cantering him in spirals both ways, faster, then slower. Do a lot of transitioning between the trot/canter/trot/halt. If you don't know how to longe, try to find someone in your area who could give you lessons in this...I would even just go for some lessons anyway as the instructor can help you figure out what is making your horse charge forward like he is, and how to help you best correct him. It's hard to diagnose this without seeing what you are doing! Mainly, though, a big horse like this is scooting because he's not in as fit a condition as he needs to be to do a smooth transition, which is a power move.
any proven advice is very needed! Thanks
Answers:
Well without seeing you and your horse it is hard to give you information and help that would address your specific difficulties. It sounds like you could be seesawing betweeen having your horse overly sensitive to your leg and perhaps overcollected prior to the canter depart (thus the explosive depart) with being alittle too passive in your seat and leg while giving him away with your hands thus his just speeding up his trot. You need to find the happy medium. Are you sitting the trot prior to asking for the canter depart? Continuing to post reinforses the trot and will encourage him to speed up his trot rather than break into the canter. I would encourage you to do many transitions walk to halt, halt to walk, walk to trot, trot to halt halt to trot as well as transitions within the trot increasing and decreasing his speed. The goal of these transitions is to train your horse to give you a smooth yet immediate response to your aids. The more trainsitons the better. When you have them down at the simpler gaits you can then proceed to the canter. Here the easiest transition is sitting trot to canter. Walk to canter and halt to canter are more difficult. numerous transitions will help you achieve your goal. Set your horse up for the canter by picking a spot in the ring that you plan to start the canter at and then proceed to prepare for the lead by asking for the correct bend applying the correct seat and leg aids and then letting the horse move forward by giving at the appropriate time with your inside rein while keeping light contact with you outside rein. Try to get the canter with the lightest amount of leg and seat possible making sure you are not releasing your hand too much to soon. If he just trots faster bring him back to a slower gait, get him and yourself reorganized and back on the bit trotting nicely and ask again increasing your leg aid until you find the minimum amount of leg he requires to take the canter. It is really similar to loading up a spring the larger the amount of compression the bigger the spring will spring. The compression is achieved on the horse by a combination of seat, leg and hand. Again with out seeing you ride it is hard to be more specific.
reply to additional info. So there are no problems going from trot to canter? well then there are 2 possible reasons for the problem. #1 being she is over-anticipating being asked for the canter so mix it up with the trot and halt so she is not sure what is coming next as well as directional changes. Don't ask for too many of these departs in a schooling. Make it a short part of your ride and mix it up. The 2nd reason may be a lack of strength behind to engage properly and maintain being balanced. Build up his/her base with canter work on a 20 meter circle spiraling the circle in and then back out in both directions as well as transitions will strengthen your horse as well as some counter-canter work. Just simple 1/2 turns and holding the counterlead back to the long side of the arena to start with eventual countercanter on the short side of the arena as well in both directions.
Just sit down and hold him with your reins, but not too much, my horse sometimes has the same problem. You might check him a few times with your reins when asking for the transition. Then maybe stop him if or when he doesn't go into it quietly and collected and back him up, then try again.
Don't send the horse "mixed signals"... don't tell him to go but still pulling back on the reins... thats probably why he just goes into a fast trot... but i'm sure that if you practice more... and correctly, your horse is sure to get better at the transition into cantering
Do you do any long line work? This is a good way to strengthen up your horse so he can carry his leg well under him for the smooth canter depart. Work on cantering him in spirals both ways, faster, then slower. Do a lot of transitioning between the trot/canter/trot/halt. If you don't know how to longe, try to find someone in your area who could give you lessons in this...I would even just go for some lessons anyway as the instructor can help you figure out what is making your horse charge forward like he is, and how to help you best correct him. It's hard to diagnose this without seeing what you are doing! Mainly, though, a big horse like this is scooting because he's not in as fit a condition as he needs to be to do a smooth transition, which is a power move.
Any ideas on plaiting manes for eventing...?
****PLEASE! Serious answers only!
I am starting combined training with my mare (lower level shows) and I would like to plaite her mane. I know it is not necessary but I think it gives a better look. My question is does it matter which side of the mane the braids are on? Most of the braiding i have seen is all on the right...that would seem awkward since her mane falls on the left. Does it mattter?
Answers:
Right is right for the mane, train it to lie that side by dampening it down and plaiting it but not rolling them up just leave the plaits hanging, leave them in for a few days and it will stay that side as long as you brush it down that side each time. as long as your mares mane is pulled nicely you should get about 10 plaits down her neck, i use the width of the mane comb to get even bunches that i then plait and roll under themselves to make nice tight balls. Happy showing :)
It doesn't matter what side you braid your horse's mane on. This is the owner's preference. As for what type of braiding...my best suggestion is to go to the shows in your area and see what looks the best and is most popular, it changes from region to region. Good luck, and have fun.
It matters. Train her mane to fall on the right. It's been a while since I plaited a mane for event - but I used between 12 and 15 buttons - not loops - depending on the length of the mount's neck - using yarn/twine that matched the mane/tail. No red/white/blue or other silly colors.
I also plaited the tail in a standard french braid. If it was muddy, I added a mud-knot that was stitched in place with matching yarn/twine.
Finally, for all 3 days, I would give the horse checkered haunches - combed a little checkerboard on his haunch using hair styling gel to hold it in place - looks good in the ring.
It depends on what style of riding you do. If in western then it doesn't matter but in classical then top eventers are allways on the left. But it really doesnt matter that much! by the way i think that running plaits look the best!
http://www.raspberryridge.com/runningbra...
but that is just my thoughts! another INTERESTING one is a fishnet plait ( i thins thts what they are called!)
i couldnt find a pic but they are bunches attacked together at the ends so that they almost look like a lace curtain!
have fun!
the braids go on the side the mane naturally falls- in your horse's case, the left.(you aren't penalized any for this) for eventing, button braids are normally used.
I am starting combined training with my mare (lower level shows) and I would like to plaite her mane. I know it is not necessary but I think it gives a better look. My question is does it matter which side of the mane the braids are on? Most of the braiding i have seen is all on the right...that would seem awkward since her mane falls on the left. Does it mattter?
Answers:
Right is right for the mane, train it to lie that side by dampening it down and plaiting it but not rolling them up just leave the plaits hanging, leave them in for a few days and it will stay that side as long as you brush it down that side each time. as long as your mares mane is pulled nicely you should get about 10 plaits down her neck, i use the width of the mane comb to get even bunches that i then plait and roll under themselves to make nice tight balls. Happy showing :)
It doesn't matter what side you braid your horse's mane on. This is the owner's preference. As for what type of braiding...my best suggestion is to go to the shows in your area and see what looks the best and is most popular, it changes from region to region. Good luck, and have fun.
It matters. Train her mane to fall on the right. It's been a while since I plaited a mane for event - but I used between 12 and 15 buttons - not loops - depending on the length of the mount's neck - using yarn/twine that matched the mane/tail. No red/white/blue or other silly colors.
I also plaited the tail in a standard french braid. If it was muddy, I added a mud-knot that was stitched in place with matching yarn/twine.
Finally, for all 3 days, I would give the horse checkered haunches - combed a little checkerboard on his haunch using hair styling gel to hold it in place - looks good in the ring.
It depends on what style of riding you do. If in western then it doesn't matter but in classical then top eventers are allways on the left. But it really doesnt matter that much! by the way i think that running plaits look the best!
http://www.raspberryridge.com/runningbra...
but that is just my thoughts! another INTERESTING one is a fishnet plait ( i thins thts what they are called!)
i couldnt find a pic but they are bunches attacked together at the ends so that they almost look like a lace curtain!
have fun!
the braids go on the side the mane naturally falls- in your horse's case, the left.(you aren't penalized any for this) for eventing, button braids are normally used.
Any ideas on how to load my difficult mare?
my mare is terrible to load into horseboxes and trailers. Her previous owners said she had an accident in one. she can be incredibly stubborn and on some occasions will load fine and others panic and fret. We have tried a few techniques, the problem is she gets too dangerous to handle and has a tendency to get carried away and rear. Any tips or ideas...all my others load fine but to my horror food doesnt work!
Answers:
You need to spend a lot of time working with her when your only goal for that session is to get her to load. (Not get her into the trailer so you can go somewhere for an event and you have to be there at a certain time--this needs time.)
Put a halter with a long lead rope on your horse. Lead him up to the open door of the trailer. (If it is a step-up trailer, get it parked so that the step isn't very high, such as backed up to a slight hill, so the ground is only a few inches from the step, if at all possible.) Your horse will probably stop and balk at the door. Leave the halter rope as slack as possible to let him sniff and breathe and lower his head to "check out" the trailer floor. He needs to test it to see if it is safe. Pet him just a little, then ask him to go forward by "popping" him lightly on his back, which is beside you (don't stand behind him or in front of him; you are not pulling him or driving him into the trailer). Pop him consistently until you get a response from him (you may have to pop a little harder for a desensitized horse; a sensitive horse, you will hardly need to even touch with the rope and they will jump forward). If he pulls back, or tries to go around the trailer door, give him TROUBLE (either jerk down hard on the halter rope straight toward the ground, holding the rope just under his chin, or if he really wants to back up, MAKE him back up quickly with short jerks backward on the rope.) And IMMEDIATELY get him up to the door of the trailer again, before you let him stand perfectly still and relax.
The main idea here is to make the trailer the "safe" place for the horse to be. Start with the "safe" place being the open door. (Later, the "safe" place will be inside the trailer.) Your goal is to get the horse to want to stand at the door, then encourage him to take a step forward. What you MUST do to accomplish this is reward him for ANY forward movement to the trailer. This includes just barely inching one foot forward. The second he lifts a foot to move forward, your consistent "popping" with the halter rope STOPS IMMEDIATELY and you praise the horse, pet him, talk to him, and let him stand a moment. Then, ask him to take one more step by starting the popping again. This is how you move his "safe" place forward into the trailer. Any backward or sideways movement results in his getting jerked, backed up, or, if he is moving wildly, run him in circles around you to take out some of the energy he has. He should learn that it's a lot of hard WORK for him to disobey. Use his lazy nature to get your desired result: standing in the trailer.
If you get him right to the trailer door and he won't step up, you can pick up a front hoof and place it in the trailer. He may take it back, but continue the popping, then. Eventually he will learn to step in. At first, only let him put his front feet in, and then stop him and after a moment ask him to step back out. You can pet him, praise him, and then ask for forward movement again. Remember to ALWAYS reward his forward movement. Once he is completely inside the trailer, try to back him out again. It is scary for a horse to get out, and you don't want him to "freeze up" once he gets inside. Repeat the whole process a few times, and only when he is loading smoothly would I give him any treats or grain inside the trailer. Let him stand for awhile, just petting him and standing near him in the trailer.
The more this is repeated, such as the next day, and the day after that, the better your horse will get. Remember, you are not PULLING or DRIVING the horse into the trailer. Your desired result is that he sees the open gate of the trailer, and thinks "oh, that's my comfortable safe place...I'm gonna go jump in there." The horse should walk right in comfortably.
Hope this works for you. If your horse is really wild, you might have a little more trouble, and need to do more groundwork before you try loading him. But I guarantee you this is the best way to put a horse in a trailer. The other methods (coaxing in with treats, or putting a rope on his hind end, or hitting the horse to drive it in to the trailer) aren't good for you or your horse, and though this way takes longer initially, it will teach your horse the best mindset to have when trailer-loading.
my horse was terrible also. blindfold her out of sight of the trailer. you probably think i'm crazy, but it forces the horse to trust you. it works wonders on most horses. then lead her in. once she's in take off the blindfold and pet her and calm her down. there are special herbs for horses to put on their nose to calm them. if that don't work, put food in the trailer to reward her once she's in, because it won't bribe her, like you said. have a long lead on her, then bring the lead in the trailer, through a window, hopefully you have one, and bring it around her butt. pull gently, pulling her forward and putting pressure on her butt also. worked for my horse. be sure to have loading protection on, especially a poll protecter. i hope your troubles end soon. ps work with her on loading, like: get her in, then once she's in, give her a treat/apple carrot/ something to reward her. leave her there for a few secs. once she's calm take her out. do often. it might help
What type of trailer are you attempting??
Is it one of those dinky 2 horse trailers?
Does it have a divider?
you should eat it and then barf it back up once you get to the destination of were you need to go. i like the taste of nice mare. good yummy.
This is what I do with mine.
I bring her close to the trailer and if she gets scared far away just stay there until she is over it, it my take a Day or a week take your time.Then move her closer and closer never until you reach the trailer.Then when your at the trailer just get her to step on the ramp or up on it then that's all for that day.Even if she wants to go father never let her, we don't want her ever to get to the point of total break down.Just do that everyday getting farther in the trailer and always stop the lesson on a good note. hope that makes since!
Bach Flower Essences, is a rescue remedy!! It comes drops %26 spray. You can put 6 drops in a water bucket or spray in to mouth. It works like a charm!! I keep it in my first-aid kit. You can use it on a horse that is hurt so it can be helped. Good luck!!
Here is what I have done with my difficult to load mare, in a 2-horse slant load. I secure the divider out of the way, and make sure that the back end is facing the sun, that way it's much brighter in.
Bringing the mare up to the trailer, let her stand there and sniff, she will likely sniff the walls, the floor, look around. Just let her stand and look. If she starts to get antsy, take back a bit and ask her to walk circles around you. When she puts her head back down, bring her back up to the trailer. I usually enter the trailer at this time, and ask her to step forward, keeping tension on the leadline. If she even shifts her weight forward, release the tension and praise her for the effort. Let her stand, then repeat. Anytime you see effort of any kind on her part to move towards the trailer, release tension and praise. If you get even one foot in the trailer, praise, praise,praise, end the session. It may take several tries to get her successfully loaded. Make sure not to shut the divider or door once she does load, because that is what she is fearful of. Let her stand and munch some carrots, pet her, praise more.
The key is to practice loading before actually needing to go anywhere. If you try to do this when you need to go somewhere, she will feel the pressure and not react as well.
And patience. Lot's and lots of patience.
Well maybe you should start with showing the mare that you can go in and your fine (ok, that isnt going to make her think ok and jump right in lol). After, try, very slowly leading her in just the smallest amount with you at her side patting her and encouraging her with quiet and kind words. Get her used to the ground changing...also I know you said that food doesnt work but every, lets say two steps...stop her, tell her she is doing very well and give her a half of a small carrot(dont start to far away from the trailer though lol). Once she tosses her head and starts getting nervous, soothingly say shhhhhhhh...give her a carrot, and dont look at her and keep walking forward, giving her security. If she gets into the trailer a little bit and then shys, try it again without as much carrots. Try this, it worked when I did it to my friends gelding.
Load her "best friend" first maybe.
Most of the answers contain valid points. We had a horse that was horrified of the trailer.
We removed the divider and put the trailer and horse in a corral with her feed in the trailer. First we placed the feed on the mat so she didn't have to get in the trailer - just stretch her neck. Over the process of a couple of weeks, we moved the feed further back. Then we added the divider. It took months, but finally she overcame her fear.
The trailer was hitched to a tractor - you don't want it to move!
There is no quick solution to any horse's "bad habits" Just reassurance; patience; and rewards.
try leading her in with her favorite treat or some grain have people behind her clapping or clucking
I had a mare that I couldn't load for about 9 years until I got a richard maxwell halter. these are rope headcollars tied in a way that applies pressure to both the poll and the horses nose. you use them with constant pressure which you relieve momentarily as soon as they step forward and then apply again. practise getting your horse used to the headcollar away from the trailer then use it to help you load.
We tried this and within 45 minutes our mare was on board eating happily. Be prepared they will rear, pull and even throw themselves on the floor so try to do it in a safe and secure area preferably an arena but this headcollar was a miracle.
once you get her in just walk her straight through and take her again through without enclosing her. then start shutting the front bar and giving her a mouthful of feed then bringing her out. build her up slowly to her allowing you to put the the doors without getting stressed then take her for short journeys making sure you make them as smooth as possible and rewarding her for behaving.
it may take a long time to get her fully happy in the trailer as she has had trouble but I would try this headcollar as they are great!!
good luck hope you manage to sort this problem
try this website for info
http://www.richard-maxwell.com/index.htm...
plus you can also try looking at monty roberts as he trained richard maxwell!!
She needs retraining from a professional. Can you get hold of a John Lyons certified trainer, or at least watch one of his videos. Not loading is actually a leading problem, not a trailer problem.
i have seen blindfolding work!!! it sounds crazy but it works because i makes the horse have to trust you because they cannot see, you just need to go slow and be calm so she will relax. if she had an accidient that would mean that she is afraid of the place. so dont force her ease her in slowly and be calm as she will too.
I would try the parelli/natural horsemanship way.
Daisykj, seems to have it in detail.
I used it on my mare who also had an accident in a trailer and from that point forward would not go in.
I tried, feeding her in, lunge line behind, blind folds I found dangerous as they cant see so if they rear they may smack their heads, I tried almost everything.
That method that she explained, really worked. My horse walks in no problem now
Another thing that helped with another one of my horses was to take a lunge attach it around the stomach then through the front legs, and through the loop on the halter. It gives you more pressure to their sides. Kind of like riding. Works for some, not all.
I would look into a horse helmet so if your horse rears it wont cut its head.
Good Luck and I hope everything works out, I know how you feel!
UM. HOOK A LONG LEAD ROPE ON HER HALTER AND PUT THE END OF THE LEAD ROPE TROUGH THE DOOR BY THEIR HEAD OF THE TRAILER .THEN STAND BACK AND PULL. WHEN SHE GETS IN THE TRAILER GIVE HER A TREAT SHE REALY LIKE!
If I had a horse like that I wouldn't load her any more than I had 2. She probably remembers the accident %26 doesn't want it happening again. NOW what U CAN do is if U MUST load her %26 IF she does well, IMMEDIATELY reward her w/ her favorite treat %26 praise her.
Answers:
You need to spend a lot of time working with her when your only goal for that session is to get her to load. (Not get her into the trailer so you can go somewhere for an event and you have to be there at a certain time--this needs time.)
Put a halter with a long lead rope on your horse. Lead him up to the open door of the trailer. (If it is a step-up trailer, get it parked so that the step isn't very high, such as backed up to a slight hill, so the ground is only a few inches from the step, if at all possible.) Your horse will probably stop and balk at the door. Leave the halter rope as slack as possible to let him sniff and breathe and lower his head to "check out" the trailer floor. He needs to test it to see if it is safe. Pet him just a little, then ask him to go forward by "popping" him lightly on his back, which is beside you (don't stand behind him or in front of him; you are not pulling him or driving him into the trailer). Pop him consistently until you get a response from him (you may have to pop a little harder for a desensitized horse; a sensitive horse, you will hardly need to even touch with the rope and they will jump forward). If he pulls back, or tries to go around the trailer door, give him TROUBLE (either jerk down hard on the halter rope straight toward the ground, holding the rope just under his chin, or if he really wants to back up, MAKE him back up quickly with short jerks backward on the rope.) And IMMEDIATELY get him up to the door of the trailer again, before you let him stand perfectly still and relax.
The main idea here is to make the trailer the "safe" place for the horse to be. Start with the "safe" place being the open door. (Later, the "safe" place will be inside the trailer.) Your goal is to get the horse to want to stand at the door, then encourage him to take a step forward. What you MUST do to accomplish this is reward him for ANY forward movement to the trailer. This includes just barely inching one foot forward. The second he lifts a foot to move forward, your consistent "popping" with the halter rope STOPS IMMEDIATELY and you praise the horse, pet him, talk to him, and let him stand a moment. Then, ask him to take one more step by starting the popping again. This is how you move his "safe" place forward into the trailer. Any backward or sideways movement results in his getting jerked, backed up, or, if he is moving wildly, run him in circles around you to take out some of the energy he has. He should learn that it's a lot of hard WORK for him to disobey. Use his lazy nature to get your desired result: standing in the trailer.
If you get him right to the trailer door and he won't step up, you can pick up a front hoof and place it in the trailer. He may take it back, but continue the popping, then. Eventually he will learn to step in. At first, only let him put his front feet in, and then stop him and after a moment ask him to step back out. You can pet him, praise him, and then ask for forward movement again. Remember to ALWAYS reward his forward movement. Once he is completely inside the trailer, try to back him out again. It is scary for a horse to get out, and you don't want him to "freeze up" once he gets inside. Repeat the whole process a few times, and only when he is loading smoothly would I give him any treats or grain inside the trailer. Let him stand for awhile, just petting him and standing near him in the trailer.
The more this is repeated, such as the next day, and the day after that, the better your horse will get. Remember, you are not PULLING or DRIVING the horse into the trailer. Your desired result is that he sees the open gate of the trailer, and thinks "oh, that's my comfortable safe place...I'm gonna go jump in there." The horse should walk right in comfortably.
Hope this works for you. If your horse is really wild, you might have a little more trouble, and need to do more groundwork before you try loading him. But I guarantee you this is the best way to put a horse in a trailer. The other methods (coaxing in with treats, or putting a rope on his hind end, or hitting the horse to drive it in to the trailer) aren't good for you or your horse, and though this way takes longer initially, it will teach your horse the best mindset to have when trailer-loading.
my horse was terrible also. blindfold her out of sight of the trailer. you probably think i'm crazy, but it forces the horse to trust you. it works wonders on most horses. then lead her in. once she's in take off the blindfold and pet her and calm her down. there are special herbs for horses to put on their nose to calm them. if that don't work, put food in the trailer to reward her once she's in, because it won't bribe her, like you said. have a long lead on her, then bring the lead in the trailer, through a window, hopefully you have one, and bring it around her butt. pull gently, pulling her forward and putting pressure on her butt also. worked for my horse. be sure to have loading protection on, especially a poll protecter. i hope your troubles end soon. ps work with her on loading, like: get her in, then once she's in, give her a treat/apple carrot/ something to reward her. leave her there for a few secs. once she's calm take her out. do often. it might help
What type of trailer are you attempting??
Is it one of those dinky 2 horse trailers?
Does it have a divider?
you should eat it and then barf it back up once you get to the destination of were you need to go. i like the taste of nice mare. good yummy.
This is what I do with mine.
I bring her close to the trailer and if she gets scared far away just stay there until she is over it, it my take a Day or a week take your time.Then move her closer and closer never until you reach the trailer.Then when your at the trailer just get her to step on the ramp or up on it then that's all for that day.Even if she wants to go father never let her, we don't want her ever to get to the point of total break down.Just do that everyday getting farther in the trailer and always stop the lesson on a good note. hope that makes since!
Bach Flower Essences, is a rescue remedy!! It comes drops %26 spray. You can put 6 drops in a water bucket or spray in to mouth. It works like a charm!! I keep it in my first-aid kit. You can use it on a horse that is hurt so it can be helped. Good luck!!
Here is what I have done with my difficult to load mare, in a 2-horse slant load. I secure the divider out of the way, and make sure that the back end is facing the sun, that way it's much brighter in.
Bringing the mare up to the trailer, let her stand there and sniff, she will likely sniff the walls, the floor, look around. Just let her stand and look. If she starts to get antsy, take back a bit and ask her to walk circles around you. When she puts her head back down, bring her back up to the trailer. I usually enter the trailer at this time, and ask her to step forward, keeping tension on the leadline. If she even shifts her weight forward, release the tension and praise her for the effort. Let her stand, then repeat. Anytime you see effort of any kind on her part to move towards the trailer, release tension and praise. If you get even one foot in the trailer, praise, praise,praise, end the session. It may take several tries to get her successfully loaded. Make sure not to shut the divider or door once she does load, because that is what she is fearful of. Let her stand and munch some carrots, pet her, praise more.
The key is to practice loading before actually needing to go anywhere. If you try to do this when you need to go somewhere, she will feel the pressure and not react as well.
And patience. Lot's and lots of patience.
Well maybe you should start with showing the mare that you can go in and your fine (ok, that isnt going to make her think ok and jump right in lol). After, try, very slowly leading her in just the smallest amount with you at her side patting her and encouraging her with quiet and kind words. Get her used to the ground changing...also I know you said that food doesnt work but every, lets say two steps...stop her, tell her she is doing very well and give her a half of a small carrot(dont start to far away from the trailer though lol). Once she tosses her head and starts getting nervous, soothingly say shhhhhhhh...give her a carrot, and dont look at her and keep walking forward, giving her security. If she gets into the trailer a little bit and then shys, try it again without as much carrots. Try this, it worked when I did it to my friends gelding.
Load her "best friend" first maybe.
Most of the answers contain valid points. We had a horse that was horrified of the trailer.
We removed the divider and put the trailer and horse in a corral with her feed in the trailer. First we placed the feed on the mat so she didn't have to get in the trailer - just stretch her neck. Over the process of a couple of weeks, we moved the feed further back. Then we added the divider. It took months, but finally she overcame her fear.
The trailer was hitched to a tractor - you don't want it to move!
There is no quick solution to any horse's "bad habits" Just reassurance; patience; and rewards.
try leading her in with her favorite treat or some grain have people behind her clapping or clucking
I had a mare that I couldn't load for about 9 years until I got a richard maxwell halter. these are rope headcollars tied in a way that applies pressure to both the poll and the horses nose. you use them with constant pressure which you relieve momentarily as soon as they step forward and then apply again. practise getting your horse used to the headcollar away from the trailer then use it to help you load.
We tried this and within 45 minutes our mare was on board eating happily. Be prepared they will rear, pull and even throw themselves on the floor so try to do it in a safe and secure area preferably an arena but this headcollar was a miracle.
once you get her in just walk her straight through and take her again through without enclosing her. then start shutting the front bar and giving her a mouthful of feed then bringing her out. build her up slowly to her allowing you to put the the doors without getting stressed then take her for short journeys making sure you make them as smooth as possible and rewarding her for behaving.
it may take a long time to get her fully happy in the trailer as she has had trouble but I would try this headcollar as they are great!!
good luck hope you manage to sort this problem
try this website for info
http://www.richard-maxwell.com/index.htm...
plus you can also try looking at monty roberts as he trained richard maxwell!!
She needs retraining from a professional. Can you get hold of a John Lyons certified trainer, or at least watch one of his videos. Not loading is actually a leading problem, not a trailer problem.
i have seen blindfolding work!!! it sounds crazy but it works because i makes the horse have to trust you because they cannot see, you just need to go slow and be calm so she will relax. if she had an accidient that would mean that she is afraid of the place. so dont force her ease her in slowly and be calm as she will too.
I would try the parelli/natural horsemanship way.
Daisykj, seems to have it in detail.
I used it on my mare who also had an accident in a trailer and from that point forward would not go in.
I tried, feeding her in, lunge line behind, blind folds I found dangerous as they cant see so if they rear they may smack their heads, I tried almost everything.
That method that she explained, really worked. My horse walks in no problem now
Another thing that helped with another one of my horses was to take a lunge attach it around the stomach then through the front legs, and through the loop on the halter. It gives you more pressure to their sides. Kind of like riding. Works for some, not all.
I would look into a horse helmet so if your horse rears it wont cut its head.
Good Luck and I hope everything works out, I know how you feel!
UM. HOOK A LONG LEAD ROPE ON HER HALTER AND PUT THE END OF THE LEAD ROPE TROUGH THE DOOR BY THEIR HEAD OF THE TRAILER .THEN STAND BACK AND PULL. WHEN SHE GETS IN THE TRAILER GIVE HER A TREAT SHE REALY LIKE!
If I had a horse like that I wouldn't load her any more than I had 2. She probably remembers the accident %26 doesn't want it happening again. NOW what U CAN do is if U MUST load her %26 IF she does well, IMMEDIATELY reward her w/ her favorite treat %26 praise her.
Any Ideas on how to give a physco horse a shot?
She kicks, pulls, runs around. I can't grab her lip to twitch her either. I've tried a chain on her nose.
Answers:
I had a lovely, quiet and well broke Paint horse that had a bad experience with a vet with shots when he was 2, and he became almost impossible to vacinate with the smallest needle afterwards! So its funny how a quiet and well trained horse can panic and misbehave when they're afraid. My vet thought the horse was a monster, but in every other area of his life he was well broke. I used him for beginner 4-H kids to ride. He was just terrified of needles, and needed to learn that they wouldn't hurt him.
Then I read an article about training your horse to accept shots that really worked for this horse. Before long I could give him his innoculations without any assistance, just me, a plain halter and rope. It was not a fight, he was not afraid and no one got hurt. This is what I did.
Take a bunch of your horse's favorite treats with you. Put them in a pocket or someplace handy, but keep your hands free. Take along an alcohol swab, and a rubber band. Open the alcohol swab, let your horse smell it, and then rub their neck with it where you would normally give the shot. If your horse is smart, they will know this is a sign they're about to get a shot, and they will start their bad behavior, circling, and trying to get away. I wouldn't fight them, because your trying to fight and argue just makes them feel more confined, but just try to keep them turned and circling around you. Don't worry if they fret and get anxious, you're aren't trying to actually give them a shot yet, but they don't know it. At some point, take the rubber band and give them a "snap" with it. Not really hard, but enough that it is a mild pop. The kind that you'd feel, but wouldn't hurt really bad. As soon as you're finished with the pop, give your horse verbal praise and a treat.
Lead your horse away and forget about it for a while. Do something else altogether. Let him think about it. The rubber band didn't really hurt, and he got a treat. Hummm. A few minutes later, repeat the entire process. Let them sniff the alcohol swab, rub their neck, give them a pop with the rubber band, and then quickly give them the treat.
Don't overdo this. Once or twice a day is enough. Come out and do it a time or two for three or four days. Soon a horse learns what's coming. They know they're going to get the pop, and they know it will slightly sting, but it really doesn't hurt bad and they get the treat right away. They are prepared and not startled, but they haven't been hurt, confined or fought with. The key is to not actually really hurt your horse with the rubber band, obviously if you are too rough you could make the problem worse and not better!
Then one day come out, do the entire process of letting them smell the swab, rub their neck and then give them an actual innoculation. As soon as you're finished, give them their treat.
My gelding got so he didn't flinch at all with his shots. The shots didn't scare him because he knew something was coming, and he had learned that it would be quick, he wouldn't be really hurt and he'd get a reward when he was done.
Now, if he was getting big needles, frequent antibiotic injections or such, the problem probably would have returned. But small needles that are used for innoculations are much less painful and the horse can learn to be prepared and accept them. It probably sounds a bit bizarre, but it made a enormous difference with my horse.
If I ever needed to give that horse antibiotics I would seriously consider oral medications instead of shots. Price would not have been an object with him! If your horse is greedy enough they will normally eat grain mixed with medication, you may need to lace the grain with a wee bit of oil, molasses or honey to help the medictions stick to the grain.
If worse comes to worst you may need to haul him someplace with stocks, have him tranquilized or have the vets handle him. Hobbles and a twitch can also help, but they are only temperary band-aid solutions and they can scare a horse. And a panicy horse can still be very dangerous in stocks. So I would avoid any extra shots and use the training I recommended for the small, less painful type needles.
Good luck.
no srry
wait be nice pet him talk in a nice voice then boom giv em the shot
When you are brushing her, take your hand and slap her rump several times with an open hand.. do that for several days.. on the third day, put the needle between your fingers and pop her with that... That's how we got our horses used to it... you could also hobble her.. Ear twitching is another method.. You put your thumb in the ear (not the ear canal and fold the ear around your thumb... like holding a motorcycle handle bar..) GENTLY twist and GENTLY pull down.. Also grab a flap of skin on the top of the neck near the withers and have someone else give the shot.. Stand close to the shoulder to avoid damage to yourself...
You can also slip a chain under her lip and over her gums way above the top teeth, where the lip and gums meet.. Apply gentle pressure there... That is called a lip twitch...
Try grabbing a handful of neck, or try covering the eye on the side she will get it on.maybe take her by surprise. Be careful!
Read the book, The Man Who Listens to Horses.
You have to follow the procedur you would when giving her a shot for a few days, but iwthout actually giving the shot. Be pinching the skin a little and then genty slap it down, all while talking calmly. Also, just try having a shot thing with you for a while so she ddoesnt think every time its around it means its gonna be painful
If you need to give the shot IM, and ALL else fails, also, if you are an experienced horsperson; Back her into a straight stall or corner, hobble her front legs %26 run a rope from her halter to around a hind leg. pull the rope so she has to put her head down towards her leg, the wall should be able to support her from falling. Get somone to hold the rope while you inject her in the neck on the side her head is turned away from. Do it as quickly and as calmly as you can, all the while speaking
soothingly. DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARE IN ANY WAY INEXPERIENCED OR NERVOUS AROUND HORSES!. You will only suceed in freaking her out more and making her more physco,
Just to make it VERY clear. This is only for an emergency, if you own this horse then you ought to train it properly or give it to someone who can
As you groom her, pull up one of her feet and don't let it down, that way she knows she cannot dance around.
My goodness there are some mean so called horse people out there! Ear twtching can damage the cartilage in her ear, perminately making her lop eared. Please don't do that. Is she halter broke at all? Have you tried to give it to her while she is eating her grain? Horses are fight or flight animals. She is obviously scared. Is she willing to be pet and loved on? If you can get her to be calm in a confined area, loving on her and talking to her nicely, you can sneek it in. You definatley need more than one person to give an untrusting horse a shot. Worse case sinerio (if being sweet doesn't do it) you can halter her, put your back against her shoulder and rap her head/ neck around you body. This makes her wind passage smaller and also releases endorphans which will help her calm down. It helps to have a wall on the other side of her to lean on and one at her hind quarters so she can't back out of it. While she is rapped around you the other person can sneak in the shot on her rump. This is not a hard manuver, and is very humane. It may take a couple of trys before she does it quietly, but I have had great success with the must unwilling horses. Good Luck!
She need to be desensitized to slaps, pinches, and the sight of a hypodermic syringe. If there is not any time to do this beforehand, you might try a calming agent added to her feed to be useful.
You also might consider investing in the purchase of stocks (not the Wall Street kind!)if you have more than one horse that could be unpredictable.
I'm assuming that if she is injured and you are giving her meds/shots that you are in regular contact with your vet right now. If so, your vet might give you a valium prescription. Your vet might have some other ideas for you, but lacing her feed with valium before you have to give her the injections (if the injury type allows) might be a possibility. I have no idea what the injury type is though, so that might not be a possibility.
Good luck! Sounds like you have your work cut out for you.
when does she start to spaz? Does she begin to act up right as you put the needle in or before you even come close to her?
With my horses they used to pull away right before the needle went in. They knew because we lightly slap/poke the area that we are going to insert the needle, then we would stop to give the injection. So what I did was have one hand that was constantly poking/slapping the area (like I said not hard) so that they wern't sure when it was coming. That seemed to stop them pulling away. Now I can give one of my horses shots with out even haltering her.
I'm sure that you have probably tried tying her to a fence or something, maybe you could try giving her some feed to distract her.
Maybe you could figure out the pattern in which you give shots and switch it up. She may possibly be used to the pattern that you are using and knows whats coming.
Does she only act like this when shes getting shots?
You should try to correct her bad behavior so that you dont get yourself or someone else hurt. She is just being spoiled and getting away with it.
Sounds like the only option is to tie this horse down. She sounds really dangerous. If you don't wanna hobble her and tie her on the ground then, if she's used to hobbles, hobble her, get in a trailer, tie her around a rear pole, and either you or someone else give her the shot. There's also a spot on her shoulder that's similar to twitching her. I'm sorry I can't remember where I read this, but I remember reading it. If you can find out some information about that maybe it will help too.
I have a mare that tenses her muscles up so hard that we have to pry the needle out on some occasions. We can't give her a rump shot either because she will launch you 40 feet backwards if you try. At one point we gave up on shots altogether and got paste and pill forms of everything we could. She gets banamine and shots of progesterone to keep her from being an evil witch.
Have you tried the stud chain on the gums yet? We tried that and it immobilized her for a split second, long enough for my quick vet to get her in the neck and run away. If you have access to a restraining chute (palpation chutes work) you may want to try that. I know it's probably out of your way to do that but its work a try. I tried restraining my mare in my slant load trailer but that was dangerous and my trailer took a beating. Do you typically do IM in the neck or the rump? I know its probably impossible for you to do Subcutaneous injections because thats how it is with me and my mare.
Another thing I did was act like I was prepping to give her a shot and then walk away and not do it. After awhile she wasn't expecting a shot when I went through the motions. Then once a gave her a shot she didn't have a chance to react until I was well out of her way. That method outsmarted her for about a month and then stopped working.
Get a group of experienced, local horse people together and try to outwit that mare. If she needs her meds she needs to deal with it (it would be great if she understood that!).
Do you have tie stalls or a narrow chute? You could try putting up a butt chain behind the horse with it's head facing in in the stall. If there is a way you can stay outside the stall but still have access to her (if the walls are not too high on the sides) you could try and do at that way. You would at least be out of danger and she couldn't go anywhere. We had a horse like this too and unfortunately were never able to get him used to shots. The only time he would allow them was when he was really not feeling good (he had a history of colic).
Good Luck!
Shes a pretty big girl. I'm not sure but I think you can either buy or get something from your vet to sidate her. All you do is put it in her mouth like a dewormer and it makes her sleepy! lol But also try puting the chain from her lead in her mouth. Also, try purchasing a thing to blind her. They use them for race horses when they dont want to go into the gait. then she cant see what your doing.
You did not mention what type of injury she has.
If you have not tried a lip chain this would be the first thing I would try. If that does not work and it sounds like your safety is in danger with her kicking I would go to my next step.
Ask your vet if he has experience using a one legged hobble.(The figure 8 type)
You must first get the horse accustomed to it before you give the shot.
We have a horse that is absolutely impossible to give a shot to (He is owned by a vet go figure). He went for the first few years of his life without shots. Then one of my vets suggested the figure eight hobble.
This hobble will attach around his front leg on the pastern and then you lift his leg and attach the other side of the hobble below his elbow, high on his forearm. The horse is then holding his front leg up.
You will have to modify the "getting used to" period of the hobble because of the injury.
We put our horse in the arena (the vet wanted a larger area as opposed to a corral or round pen). First we put up his left leg, (for about 5 minutes) and then his right. We supervised him from about 30 feet away so he did not associate US with the hobble. He figured out he was not able to go anywhere, and now whenever we need to vaccinate him we put his hobble on and everything goes easily.
Again get help from a professional in learning how to do this properly.
Good luck to you.
Lord have mercy on the horse that you own.No wonder the poor thing is reacting in this manner...Doesnt know what nice is...Sounds like this horse needs a horsewhisperer first before it gets its shots...Id be kicking, and running too if I was treated this way when I went to get my shots.Horses react to the reactor.There are ways to get a horse to take its shots in a peaceful manner...Its called patience, love, caring, carresing, and praising, gentle grooming..Not restraining it with using a twitch on its nose, or hobbling, or chaining, or cranking his ears.. Horses will become head shy if given this treatment. A horse will stand still, if it has learned that the handler is not going to hurt them...I agree with one persons view on giving shots..Patting the horse, and putting the needle in while patting..It a simple procedure..The horse will get used to it.. some of these people suggestions are only going to make the horses more scared of the owner...
I have tried what paintgirl recommended, and it works. I get volunteered alot to give shots, and a friend's Arabian acted like yours. She is now alot better.
If your horse is injured and he needs shots ASAP, wherever you confine him or the method you use will probably not work a second time, I'm sure you already know this though.
Have a friend there to help and don't forget to lube the syringe!
You need a chute.
I had a farrier once that was very skilled in GENTLY (don't freak out here) "throwing" a horse that would not be trimmed. Once they were down, with an experienced assistant on the head, he could trim the feet on the wildest ones. Might work for a shot, but if the horse is injured I'd hate to hurt it worse in the process.
So I guess, get a chute.
Answers:
I had a lovely, quiet and well broke Paint horse that had a bad experience with a vet with shots when he was 2, and he became almost impossible to vacinate with the smallest needle afterwards! So its funny how a quiet and well trained horse can panic and misbehave when they're afraid. My vet thought the horse was a monster, but in every other area of his life he was well broke. I used him for beginner 4-H kids to ride. He was just terrified of needles, and needed to learn that they wouldn't hurt him.
Then I read an article about training your horse to accept shots that really worked for this horse. Before long I could give him his innoculations without any assistance, just me, a plain halter and rope. It was not a fight, he was not afraid and no one got hurt. This is what I did.
Take a bunch of your horse's favorite treats with you. Put them in a pocket or someplace handy, but keep your hands free. Take along an alcohol swab, and a rubber band. Open the alcohol swab, let your horse smell it, and then rub their neck with it where you would normally give the shot. If your horse is smart, they will know this is a sign they're about to get a shot, and they will start their bad behavior, circling, and trying to get away. I wouldn't fight them, because your trying to fight and argue just makes them feel more confined, but just try to keep them turned and circling around you. Don't worry if they fret and get anxious, you're aren't trying to actually give them a shot yet, but they don't know it. At some point, take the rubber band and give them a "snap" with it. Not really hard, but enough that it is a mild pop. The kind that you'd feel, but wouldn't hurt really bad. As soon as you're finished with the pop, give your horse verbal praise and a treat.
Lead your horse away and forget about it for a while. Do something else altogether. Let him think about it. The rubber band didn't really hurt, and he got a treat. Hummm. A few minutes later, repeat the entire process. Let them sniff the alcohol swab, rub their neck, give them a pop with the rubber band, and then quickly give them the treat.
Don't overdo this. Once or twice a day is enough. Come out and do it a time or two for three or four days. Soon a horse learns what's coming. They know they're going to get the pop, and they know it will slightly sting, but it really doesn't hurt bad and they get the treat right away. They are prepared and not startled, but they haven't been hurt, confined or fought with. The key is to not actually really hurt your horse with the rubber band, obviously if you are too rough you could make the problem worse and not better!
Then one day come out, do the entire process of letting them smell the swab, rub their neck and then give them an actual innoculation. As soon as you're finished, give them their treat.
My gelding got so he didn't flinch at all with his shots. The shots didn't scare him because he knew something was coming, and he had learned that it would be quick, he wouldn't be really hurt and he'd get a reward when he was done.
Now, if he was getting big needles, frequent antibiotic injections or such, the problem probably would have returned. But small needles that are used for innoculations are much less painful and the horse can learn to be prepared and accept them. It probably sounds a bit bizarre, but it made a enormous difference with my horse.
If I ever needed to give that horse antibiotics I would seriously consider oral medications instead of shots. Price would not have been an object with him! If your horse is greedy enough they will normally eat grain mixed with medication, you may need to lace the grain with a wee bit of oil, molasses or honey to help the medictions stick to the grain.
If worse comes to worst you may need to haul him someplace with stocks, have him tranquilized or have the vets handle him. Hobbles and a twitch can also help, but they are only temperary band-aid solutions and they can scare a horse. And a panicy horse can still be very dangerous in stocks. So I would avoid any extra shots and use the training I recommended for the small, less painful type needles.
Good luck.
no srry
wait be nice pet him talk in a nice voice then boom giv em the shot
When you are brushing her, take your hand and slap her rump several times with an open hand.. do that for several days.. on the third day, put the needle between your fingers and pop her with that... That's how we got our horses used to it... you could also hobble her.. Ear twitching is another method.. You put your thumb in the ear (not the ear canal and fold the ear around your thumb... like holding a motorcycle handle bar..) GENTLY twist and GENTLY pull down.. Also grab a flap of skin on the top of the neck near the withers and have someone else give the shot.. Stand close to the shoulder to avoid damage to yourself...
You can also slip a chain under her lip and over her gums way above the top teeth, where the lip and gums meet.. Apply gentle pressure there... That is called a lip twitch...
Try grabbing a handful of neck, or try covering the eye on the side she will get it on.maybe take her by surprise. Be careful!
Read the book, The Man Who Listens to Horses.
You have to follow the procedur you would when giving her a shot for a few days, but iwthout actually giving the shot. Be pinching the skin a little and then genty slap it down, all while talking calmly. Also, just try having a shot thing with you for a while so she ddoesnt think every time its around it means its gonna be painful
If you need to give the shot IM, and ALL else fails, also, if you are an experienced horsperson; Back her into a straight stall or corner, hobble her front legs %26 run a rope from her halter to around a hind leg. pull the rope so she has to put her head down towards her leg, the wall should be able to support her from falling. Get somone to hold the rope while you inject her in the neck on the side her head is turned away from. Do it as quickly and as calmly as you can, all the while speaking
soothingly. DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU ARE IN ANY WAY INEXPERIENCED OR NERVOUS AROUND HORSES!. You will only suceed in freaking her out more and making her more physco,
Just to make it VERY clear. This is only for an emergency, if you own this horse then you ought to train it properly or give it to someone who can
As you groom her, pull up one of her feet and don't let it down, that way she knows she cannot dance around.
My goodness there are some mean so called horse people out there! Ear twtching can damage the cartilage in her ear, perminately making her lop eared. Please don't do that. Is she halter broke at all? Have you tried to give it to her while she is eating her grain? Horses are fight or flight animals. She is obviously scared. Is she willing to be pet and loved on? If you can get her to be calm in a confined area, loving on her and talking to her nicely, you can sneek it in. You definatley need more than one person to give an untrusting horse a shot. Worse case sinerio (if being sweet doesn't do it) you can halter her, put your back against her shoulder and rap her head/ neck around you body. This makes her wind passage smaller and also releases endorphans which will help her calm down. It helps to have a wall on the other side of her to lean on and one at her hind quarters so she can't back out of it. While she is rapped around you the other person can sneak in the shot on her rump. This is not a hard manuver, and is very humane. It may take a couple of trys before she does it quietly, but I have had great success with the must unwilling horses. Good Luck!
She need to be desensitized to slaps, pinches, and the sight of a hypodermic syringe. If there is not any time to do this beforehand, you might try a calming agent added to her feed to be useful.
You also might consider investing in the purchase of stocks (not the Wall Street kind!)if you have more than one horse that could be unpredictable.
I'm assuming that if she is injured and you are giving her meds/shots that you are in regular contact with your vet right now. If so, your vet might give you a valium prescription. Your vet might have some other ideas for you, but lacing her feed with valium before you have to give her the injections (if the injury type allows) might be a possibility. I have no idea what the injury type is though, so that might not be a possibility.
Good luck! Sounds like you have your work cut out for you.
when does she start to spaz? Does she begin to act up right as you put the needle in or before you even come close to her?
With my horses they used to pull away right before the needle went in. They knew because we lightly slap/poke the area that we are going to insert the needle, then we would stop to give the injection. So what I did was have one hand that was constantly poking/slapping the area (like I said not hard) so that they wern't sure when it was coming. That seemed to stop them pulling away. Now I can give one of my horses shots with out even haltering her.
I'm sure that you have probably tried tying her to a fence or something, maybe you could try giving her some feed to distract her.
Maybe you could figure out the pattern in which you give shots and switch it up. She may possibly be used to the pattern that you are using and knows whats coming.
Does she only act like this when shes getting shots?
You should try to correct her bad behavior so that you dont get yourself or someone else hurt. She is just being spoiled and getting away with it.
Sounds like the only option is to tie this horse down. She sounds really dangerous. If you don't wanna hobble her and tie her on the ground then, if she's used to hobbles, hobble her, get in a trailer, tie her around a rear pole, and either you or someone else give her the shot. There's also a spot on her shoulder that's similar to twitching her. I'm sorry I can't remember where I read this, but I remember reading it. If you can find out some information about that maybe it will help too.
I have a mare that tenses her muscles up so hard that we have to pry the needle out on some occasions. We can't give her a rump shot either because she will launch you 40 feet backwards if you try. At one point we gave up on shots altogether and got paste and pill forms of everything we could. She gets banamine and shots of progesterone to keep her from being an evil witch.
Have you tried the stud chain on the gums yet? We tried that and it immobilized her for a split second, long enough for my quick vet to get her in the neck and run away. If you have access to a restraining chute (palpation chutes work) you may want to try that. I know it's probably out of your way to do that but its work a try. I tried restraining my mare in my slant load trailer but that was dangerous and my trailer took a beating. Do you typically do IM in the neck or the rump? I know its probably impossible for you to do Subcutaneous injections because thats how it is with me and my mare.
Another thing I did was act like I was prepping to give her a shot and then walk away and not do it. After awhile she wasn't expecting a shot when I went through the motions. Then once a gave her a shot she didn't have a chance to react until I was well out of her way. That method outsmarted her for about a month and then stopped working.
Get a group of experienced, local horse people together and try to outwit that mare. If she needs her meds she needs to deal with it (it would be great if she understood that!).
Do you have tie stalls or a narrow chute? You could try putting up a butt chain behind the horse with it's head facing in in the stall. If there is a way you can stay outside the stall but still have access to her (if the walls are not too high on the sides) you could try and do at that way. You would at least be out of danger and she couldn't go anywhere. We had a horse like this too and unfortunately were never able to get him used to shots. The only time he would allow them was when he was really not feeling good (he had a history of colic).
Good Luck!
Shes a pretty big girl. I'm not sure but I think you can either buy or get something from your vet to sidate her. All you do is put it in her mouth like a dewormer and it makes her sleepy! lol But also try puting the chain from her lead in her mouth. Also, try purchasing a thing to blind her. They use them for race horses when they dont want to go into the gait. then she cant see what your doing.
You did not mention what type of injury she has.
If you have not tried a lip chain this would be the first thing I would try. If that does not work and it sounds like your safety is in danger with her kicking I would go to my next step.
Ask your vet if he has experience using a one legged hobble.(The figure 8 type)
You must first get the horse accustomed to it before you give the shot.
We have a horse that is absolutely impossible to give a shot to (He is owned by a vet go figure). He went for the first few years of his life without shots. Then one of my vets suggested the figure eight hobble.
This hobble will attach around his front leg on the pastern and then you lift his leg and attach the other side of the hobble below his elbow, high on his forearm. The horse is then holding his front leg up.
You will have to modify the "getting used to" period of the hobble because of the injury.
We put our horse in the arena (the vet wanted a larger area as opposed to a corral or round pen). First we put up his left leg, (for about 5 minutes) and then his right. We supervised him from about 30 feet away so he did not associate US with the hobble. He figured out he was not able to go anywhere, and now whenever we need to vaccinate him we put his hobble on and everything goes easily.
Again get help from a professional in learning how to do this properly.
Good luck to you.
Lord have mercy on the horse that you own.No wonder the poor thing is reacting in this manner...Doesnt know what nice is...Sounds like this horse needs a horsewhisperer first before it gets its shots...Id be kicking, and running too if I was treated this way when I went to get my shots.Horses react to the reactor.There are ways to get a horse to take its shots in a peaceful manner...Its called patience, love, caring, carresing, and praising, gentle grooming..Not restraining it with using a twitch on its nose, or hobbling, or chaining, or cranking his ears.. Horses will become head shy if given this treatment. A horse will stand still, if it has learned that the handler is not going to hurt them...I agree with one persons view on giving shots..Patting the horse, and putting the needle in while patting..It a simple procedure..The horse will get used to it.. some of these people suggestions are only going to make the horses more scared of the owner...
I have tried what paintgirl recommended, and it works. I get volunteered alot to give shots, and a friend's Arabian acted like yours. She is now alot better.
If your horse is injured and he needs shots ASAP, wherever you confine him or the method you use will probably not work a second time, I'm sure you already know this though.
Have a friend there to help and don't forget to lube the syringe!
You need a chute.
I had a farrier once that was very skilled in GENTLY (don't freak out here) "throwing" a horse that would not be trimmed. Once they were down, with an experienced assistant on the head, he could trim the feet on the wildest ones. Might work for a shot, but if the horse is injured I'd hate to hurt it worse in the process.
So I guess, get a chute.
Any ideas on confidence??
im 19 yrs of age and have been riding horses ever since the age of 3.. i love my 2 horses to death one is a thoroughbred and the other a arab quarter horse buckskin
i havent ridden them in a year due to work and study issues.. they have never hurt me...
i am very experienced and love any kind of competitive riding especially barrels.. but i have lost my confidence..
i just dont feel invisible anymore
is this because im getting older or can i get it back
please help.// any ideas on getting my confidence back?
Answers:
Think back to when you rode regularly. Do you remember the little things or big things you enjoyed - the wind in your hair, the posting trot, the agony of posting without stirrups? ;) Try to remember what it felt like. It wasn't scary. Nothing hurt.
Now just take baby steps. One day, maybe just take a visit to your barn; give your horses a nice long groom. Later practice tacking up. Another day, just take your horses into the ring tacked and slowly mount up. Take it easy. A walk a couple of times around is fine. Take more steps as you feel more comfortable. Confidence doesn't come in a snap - you need to build it up again. Don't try something you don't think you can handle - walk until you feel comfortable, then try easy trotting. Once you feel very comfortable, you can begin to progress normally.
The good news is, you're perfectly normal; the bad news is, it gets worse as you get older.
As I have aged, it seems the ground has gotten both harder and further away.
Add a two year hiatus for health problems and I found myself with serious lack of confidence. I've been addressing it with a lot of ground work before I actually hopped up there. The first couple of times, try to get with another "safe" rider. On the trail, at least, it tends to be "monkey see, monkey do" for the horses.
My sister who has never stopped riding in her 44 years confessed to me that goes through a little anxiety every Spring on that first trip out on the trail. She gave me the best advice I could ask for: You'v'e just got to ride it out.
Start off slow, quiete hacks then add in a canter track.
do a bit a schooling and when you feel a bit adventourous do a couple of little cross poles and that up.
I had not ridden properly for 5 years, met up with an old friend with Grade A BSJA horses and I 3 months later I wouldn't think twice going to blow cobwebs on the beach or a blast across the common back to my old hell raising ways.
I think when you grow older, you start to think of all things that you could do that you might get hurt by doing them.
When you are younger, none of these thoughts enter your mind.
So you love to barrel race? Maybe go to an open show one day and watch the barrel racing. Do you feel like you need to get back in the saddle and replace those people or are you thinking, "Oh my goodness! Those people could fall and get trampled!" ? Think of this, if you are worrying about falling, it is very hard to come off a western saddle. The seat is deep and you have a horn. Do you feel like your horses are too hot for you? If you just are not confident that you'll get back into the swing, take it slow from walk, trot, to canter and work on your form and muscle until next year you can go out and show competively. Run some barrels inside in the winter once you get your confedince up. You can walk them if you need to. No one is pushing you to do anything more than what you want to do. Even if you do get back up into showing, don't be afraid to stop and trot the barrels if you feel like it is too much to handle.
i had a problem with confidence too a while back. What made me gain my confidence back was just to ride a nice mellow horse that I knew I would do well on. Most improtant is to have fun. After a while i was back in the game riding the crazy ones :) Also you can try just talking to the horse when you feel a little nervous because it really calms you down. And another thing i found that helps as well is wen a horse takes off or you tense up and feel scared, just laugh because it relle relaxes you even if you feel relle stupid! its the funniest thing wen a horse takes off and you see this rider laughing and hanging on for dear life. Hope my wierd and crazy ideas work! :)
im 21 and have been showing QH professioanlly for 12 years my parents were trainers in OR. I have been hurt by many horses, like being kick, bit, stompedd on, rolled on, they have flipped over on me, bucked me off, or rub me on the fence. over all if your nervous you just have to go out there and do it!! you said your horse has never hurt you so what are you afraid of. if your nervous than your horse will sense it. trust your horse and just let go.
i know exactly where you are comin from as do many of the others who have replied.the older you get the more it hurts!!i got my mare in dec after a break of 10years,i now have a child who is 7.by the way im 28 now,just so you dont think i havent ridden for a couple of centuries.i would have normally gone for a bolshy 16h highly strung creature.i got a 19 year old haflinger 14.1.shes 150%bombproof in every way,has given me my confidence back and she will remain my faithful companion who gave me courage forever.
picture what you love most about riding. as you ride, think of that, not what is bugging you.
a good idea would be to just go and ride. just go get one of your horses and just get up and walk around a little. if you are comfortable enough to ride bareback do it. just walk some and then just let your horse graze. just sit up there and do nothing in particular. i do this when i have had a bad day or i am feeling nervous about riding or something else i just get up, walk around a little and then i just let my horse graze. sometimes im up there for hours. if you dont really have to time to ride enough right now to get your confidence level up just do things with your horses. one day go and get one out of the pasture and walk around with them some. let them graze or give them a treat, walk the horse on hand around like the house or the barn and put them back in the pasture or stall. sometimes just being around the horses can help you gain your confidence. also if you have a good friend that likes horses to you can have them over one day and the both of you can do things with your horses even if it is just a major grooming day. being with your friends and your horses can do wonders to your confidence.
good luck
I feel your pain. I wouldn't worry about it; it just comes down to the fact that you haven't ridden in a year. I recommend just trail riding for a while to rebuild your confidence. The more you ride from here on out, even if you don't do anything "demanding," the more confident you'll get.
i havent ridden them in a year due to work and study issues.. they have never hurt me...
i am very experienced and love any kind of competitive riding especially barrels.. but i have lost my confidence..
i just dont feel invisible anymore
is this because im getting older or can i get it back
please help.// any ideas on getting my confidence back?
Answers:
Think back to when you rode regularly. Do you remember the little things or big things you enjoyed - the wind in your hair, the posting trot, the agony of posting without stirrups? ;) Try to remember what it felt like. It wasn't scary. Nothing hurt.
Now just take baby steps. One day, maybe just take a visit to your barn; give your horses a nice long groom. Later practice tacking up. Another day, just take your horses into the ring tacked and slowly mount up. Take it easy. A walk a couple of times around is fine. Take more steps as you feel more comfortable. Confidence doesn't come in a snap - you need to build it up again. Don't try something you don't think you can handle - walk until you feel comfortable, then try easy trotting. Once you feel very comfortable, you can begin to progress normally.
The good news is, you're perfectly normal; the bad news is, it gets worse as you get older.
As I have aged, it seems the ground has gotten both harder and further away.
Add a two year hiatus for health problems and I found myself with serious lack of confidence. I've been addressing it with a lot of ground work before I actually hopped up there. The first couple of times, try to get with another "safe" rider. On the trail, at least, it tends to be "monkey see, monkey do" for the horses.
My sister who has never stopped riding in her 44 years confessed to me that goes through a little anxiety every Spring on that first trip out on the trail. She gave me the best advice I could ask for: You'v'e just got to ride it out.
Start off slow, quiete hacks then add in a canter track.
do a bit a schooling and when you feel a bit adventourous do a couple of little cross poles and that up.
I had not ridden properly for 5 years, met up with an old friend with Grade A BSJA horses and I 3 months later I wouldn't think twice going to blow cobwebs on the beach or a blast across the common back to my old hell raising ways.
I think when you grow older, you start to think of all things that you could do that you might get hurt by doing them.
When you are younger, none of these thoughts enter your mind.
So you love to barrel race? Maybe go to an open show one day and watch the barrel racing. Do you feel like you need to get back in the saddle and replace those people or are you thinking, "Oh my goodness! Those people could fall and get trampled!" ? Think of this, if you are worrying about falling, it is very hard to come off a western saddle. The seat is deep and you have a horn. Do you feel like your horses are too hot for you? If you just are not confident that you'll get back into the swing, take it slow from walk, trot, to canter and work on your form and muscle until next year you can go out and show competively. Run some barrels inside in the winter once you get your confedince up. You can walk them if you need to. No one is pushing you to do anything more than what you want to do. Even if you do get back up into showing, don't be afraid to stop and trot the barrels if you feel like it is too much to handle.
i had a problem with confidence too a while back. What made me gain my confidence back was just to ride a nice mellow horse that I knew I would do well on. Most improtant is to have fun. After a while i was back in the game riding the crazy ones :) Also you can try just talking to the horse when you feel a little nervous because it really calms you down. And another thing i found that helps as well is wen a horse takes off or you tense up and feel scared, just laugh because it relle relaxes you even if you feel relle stupid! its the funniest thing wen a horse takes off and you see this rider laughing and hanging on for dear life. Hope my wierd and crazy ideas work! :)
im 21 and have been showing QH professioanlly for 12 years my parents were trainers in OR. I have been hurt by many horses, like being kick, bit, stompedd on, rolled on, they have flipped over on me, bucked me off, or rub me on the fence. over all if your nervous you just have to go out there and do it!! you said your horse has never hurt you so what are you afraid of. if your nervous than your horse will sense it. trust your horse and just let go.
i know exactly where you are comin from as do many of the others who have replied.the older you get the more it hurts!!i got my mare in dec after a break of 10years,i now have a child who is 7.by the way im 28 now,just so you dont think i havent ridden for a couple of centuries.i would have normally gone for a bolshy 16h highly strung creature.i got a 19 year old haflinger 14.1.shes 150%bombproof in every way,has given me my confidence back and she will remain my faithful companion who gave me courage forever.
picture what you love most about riding. as you ride, think of that, not what is bugging you.
a good idea would be to just go and ride. just go get one of your horses and just get up and walk around a little. if you are comfortable enough to ride bareback do it. just walk some and then just let your horse graze. just sit up there and do nothing in particular. i do this when i have had a bad day or i am feeling nervous about riding or something else i just get up, walk around a little and then i just let my horse graze. sometimes im up there for hours. if you dont really have to time to ride enough right now to get your confidence level up just do things with your horses. one day go and get one out of the pasture and walk around with them some. let them graze or give them a treat, walk the horse on hand around like the house or the barn and put them back in the pasture or stall. sometimes just being around the horses can help you gain your confidence. also if you have a good friend that likes horses to you can have them over one day and the both of you can do things with your horses even if it is just a major grooming day. being with your friends and your horses can do wonders to your confidence.
good luck
I feel your pain. I wouldn't worry about it; it just comes down to the fact that you haven't ridden in a year. I recommend just trail riding for a while to rebuild your confidence. The more you ride from here on out, even if you don't do anything "demanding," the more confident you'll get.
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